Wiring diagram - Yamaha 115 AET V4

JSP · 03 July 2009, 15:05

Anyone know of one online?

Poly · 03 July 2009, 17:05

John, not sure how much detail you need - but the "parts catalogues" and a knowledge of the standard yamaha wiring colours probably goes a long way to most detective work.

I can't see the 115AET here - but is it similar to any of the others? http://www.eastmarine.ru/incp/katalog/katalog_OM.php

Poly · 03 July 2009, 17:10

Or if you can read it p47 of this: http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com....5-28199-20.pdf

JSP · 03 July 2009, 17:15

Thanks mate.
It's the wiring from the starter solenoid to the ignition system that I'm after. Can't seem to find one like it on that link.

Poly · 03 July 2009, 17:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSP

Thanks mate.
It's the wiring from the starter solenoid to the ignition system that I'm after. Can't seem to find one like it on that link.

did you see the second link? looks like item 7 is the starter and 14 is the relay (solenoid?). Its not great quality and my screen is pretty small.

JSP · 03 July 2009, 18:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polwart

did you see the second link? looks like item 7 is the starter and 14 is the relay (solenoid?). Its not great quality and my screen is pretty small.

No I missed your second link. Hard to read but could just be the job

Thanks again!

JSP · 03 July 2009, 18:40

I'm at a dead loss with this.
Got new battery leads, fitted them the same way as the old ones and now the fuse blows in the rectifier regulator

Going off the diagram I have done it right too!

JSP · 04 July 2009, 10:35

Need your help on this one lads.
As I've said I replaced the battery leads. But now the fuse keeps blowing!

This is the starter relay/solenoid, from left to right;
earth, battery lead plus red wire that goes to the ignition fuse that I have connected on to the post with a round connector, brown wire for igintion attached to the black earth, Positive going to the starter.

The old battery lead, the red wire coming out of the terminal ring is the red wire for the ignition that I have put on a ring connector on to the post.

Now the only thing I can think of is the red wire being on the post. But why?? As it was only spliced into the battery leads connection anyway?

Any help lads would be great!

JSP · 04 July 2009, 13:58

I've gone through 9 fues now.

JSP · 04 July 2009, 16:00

I'm really sh!t at electrics!
Found a wiring diagram of a Starter solenoid on line that is a bit like the one on my Yam as far as where the ignition connects to the battery lead.
How the hell does the ignition lead not burn out connected to such a high current lead???

willk · 04 July 2009, 16:22

someone who knows WTF they're talking about will be along shortly, but I presume it's because the ignition is merely activating the solenoid, hence not big current/amps?

Poly · 04 July 2009, 16:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSP

How the hell does the ignition lead not burn out connected to such a high current lead???

Because a high current can't flow through the lead as the solenoid itself should have a big resistance. So I guess that's the first step in investigation - put a multimeter on that circuit to see if it is shorted somewhere.

JSP · 04 July 2009, 16:40

Thanks lads, but the ignition wire is just connected to the battery lead before the lead gets to the solenoid. WTF ???

Any one got any class A drugs?

Poly · 04 July 2009, 16:40

John, I would disconnect the battery then measure the resistance between the two points I marked in green on your diag. I don't know what it should be - but if you know the spec of the fuse we can tell you what it shouldn't be! One thing though - do you not have "start in gear" protection on your engine? as that would add some extra wiring (and potential for faults).

JSP · 04 July 2009, 16:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polwart

John, I would disconnect the battery then measure the resistance between the two points I marked in green on your diag. I don't know what it should be - but if you know the spec of the fuse we can tell you what it shouldn't be! One thing though - do you not have "start in gear" protection on your engine? as that would add some extra wiring (and potential for faults).

Going to have to go buy a multimeter, always avoided electrics up until now. Bloody boats!
When I get one I'll give it ago (thanks again for all your time

)
The fuse on the ignition is 20amp
I'm not 100% sure but I think my OB doesn't have a start in gear protection under the hood. It's in the 703 control.

JSP · 04 July 2009, 18:36

On the top of the engine it says 70AH battery or 100AH battery for cold conditions. I'm using a 110AH battery. Could that be too much?

willk · 04 July 2009, 19:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSP

On the top of the engine it says 70AH battery or 100AH battery for cold conditions. I'm using a 110AH battery. Could that be too much?

No, these are minimum requirements. It's still giving you 12v. Just for longer. My 90s have one each

.

A layman's tip for lekkie, sometimes it's more important where it's going to, than coming from....

willk · 04 July 2009, 19:23

Upon further reflection, I was just thinking that it was a while since we got flung in the bilges - should we "start" something? I don't think I could manage any personal abuse, but I'm sure I could rise to some innuendo, it being Saturday night and all

.

JSP · 04 July 2009, 19:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by willk

No, these are minimum requirements. It's still giving you 12v. Just for longer. My 90s have one each

.

A layman's tip for lekkie, sometimes it's more important where it's going to, than coming from....

Cheers Willk. I'll keep that in mind.

This is starting to consume my life! I know (hope) it's something so simple and it's keeping me from using the RIB.

Davie · 04 July 2009, 22:01

Try another battery, I had a new one that had been charged reverse polarity and thats exactly what happens when your battery leads are on the wrong way!