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05 May 2014, 15:43
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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11.1 x 14 SS prop
looking for the above to fit a tohatsu 50hp
Edit: just checked I need a size down in pitch if i am moving from aluminium to SS, is that right? in that case I need a 11.1 x 12p
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06 May 2014, 03:17
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Tried it on the boat yet? If not, don't do anything til you've got an accurate WOT RPM reading.
For what it's worth, I wouldn't bother with an SS prop-it'll be so fast propped correctly with an aluminium prop that you won't need to look for extra performance and the gearbox takes a lot of load if you hit anything with an SS prop. There's a lot of crap floating in the Severn!
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06 May 2014, 07:37
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
Tried it on the boat yet? If not, don't do anything til you've got an accurate WOT RPM reading.
For what it's worth, I wouldn't bother with an SS prop-it'll be so fast propped correctly with an aluminium prop that you won't need to look for extra performance and the gearbox takes a lot of load if you hit anything with an SS prop. There's a lot of crap floating in the Severn!
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well this is the problem i've got- being an absoloute idiot i trimmed the engine down too early because before I had a sib so you could drop the engine down earlier. I then scaped the prop over the hard sand bed, bending a taking the paint off it. With the bent prop I got 5650rpm at WOT.
So I thought instead of reconditioning/buying a new prop I would just get a SS one? But you reckon there's not much point? So maybe I just stick with a ally one but get mine reconditioned- propeller solutions do it for £38.
Cheers henry
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06 May 2014, 08:20
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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Read one of your earlier posts that you used a 10 3/4 x 14 prop and got 39 knots WOT. I know someone who can lend me one this size but not sure if honda and tohatsu will fit the same props? I know he had it on a mid to late 90s honda 4 stroke and mind in a tohatsu tldi.
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06 May 2014, 12:52
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Isle of Lewis
Boat name: Macleod Special
Make: Mako Thundercat
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 70ces
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,266
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06 May 2014, 12:58
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#6
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston
well this is the problem i've got- being an absoloute idiot i trimmed the engine down too early because before I had a sib so you could drop the engine down earlier. I then scaped the prop over the hard sand bed, bending a taking the paint off it. With the bent prop I got 5650rpm at WOT.
So I thought instead of reconditioning/buying a new prop I would just get a SS one? But you reckon there's not much point? So maybe I just stick with a ally one but get mine reconditioned- propeller solutions do it for £38.
Cheers henry
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Everyone bashes their prop at some point in shallow water
You really need the prop to be perfect to get a proper WOT RPM reading. However, a stainless prop will transfer a hell of a lot more shocks to the gearbox if you hit something and you really don't want to be changing gearboxes.That's aside from how crazy quick an SR4 with a 50 is when propped correctly on any prop.
Quote:
Originally Posted by henryfreston
Read one of your earlier posts that you used a 10 3/4 x 14 prop and got 39 knots WOT. I know someone who can lend me one this size but not sure if honda and tohatsu will fit the same props? I know he had it on a mid to late 90s honda 4 stroke and mind in a tohatsu tldi.
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Yeah I did use that prop, but that was on a Mariner 50. Your TLDI would have to have exactly the same gear ratio and recommended WOT RPM to replicate my results though. Every prop/motor/hull/owner lardiness index combination gives different results.
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06 May 2014, 13:02
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: St Helens
Boat name: Wine Down
Make: Maxum
Length: 8m +
Engine: Inboard
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 934
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I'm with Nos4R2, unlikely to get any significant performance advantage with a stainless prop. After years of testing and a lot of money spent on props, I have come to the conclusion that OE prop is usually the best (+ or - 2") in a leisure application.
The other issue with stainless is when you bash it. You hit the bottom with an ali prop the worst case is a new prop ( £80?) or more usually a rework for £30. If you hit the bottom with a stainless prop the worst case is a new gearbox
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06 May 2014, 16:00
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Isle of Lewis
Boat name: Macleod Special
Make: Mako Thundercat
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 70ces
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,266
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I'd go stainless every time, it's a trade off either way but there are performance gains to be made. The easiest way to get more performance out of your boat is just changing to a better prop.
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06 May 2014, 16:04
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
Everyone bashes their prop at some point in shallow water
You really need the prop to be perfect to get a proper WOT RPM reading. However, a stainless prop will transfer a hell of a lot more shocks to the gearbox if you hit something and you really don't want to be changing gearboxes.That's aside from how crazy quick an SR4 with a 50 is when propped correctly on any prop.
Yeah I did use that prop, but that was on a Mariner 50. Your TLDI would have to have exactly the same gear ratio and recommended WOT RPM to replicate my results though. Every prop/motor/hull/owner lardiness index combination gives different results.
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i know it has the same gear ratio so maybe i will just have to have a play with a few props. I will try a 14" as someone I know has one I can use and he also has a 12", then whilst I'm trying them my 13" can be repaired and I can compare.
I mean my boat didn't feel slow, but it certainly wasn't as fast as I was expecting it to be, I was at WOT i i was not chine walking and it wasn't really fast. So I will just have to have a little play around and see what happens I suppose.
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06 May 2014, 16:06
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thornbury
Make: Avon Searider 4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50hp tohatsu tldi
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landlockedpirate
I'm with Nos4R2, unlikely to get any significant performance advantage with a stainless prop. After years of testing and a lot of money spent on props, I have come to the conclusion that OE prop is usually the best (+ or - 2") in a leisure application.
The other issue with stainless is when you bash it. You hit the bottom with an ali prop the worst case is a new prop ( £80?) or more usually a rework for £30. If you hit the bottom with a stainless prop the worst case is a new gearbox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roflhat
I'd go stainless every time, it's a trade off either way but there are performance gains to be made. The easiest way to get more performance out of your boat is just changing to a better prop.
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I suppose there is pros and cons of both. I think I will first prop it correctly with an ally prop then MAYBE cahnge to a stainless if im not happy with the speed or i cant pull a skier up.
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