Wanted 40hp long shaft engine

spareribs · 04 July 2012, 00:55

40hp long shaft engine , 2 or 4 stroke around the £800 mark. Preferably with a tiller and remotes , for a searider 4. Would consider 30 as well, going to save the 50 till next time , dont want to spoil myself all in one go !!! Gradiate the pleasure to maximise it folks.

spartacus · 04 July 2012, 08:33

That's a tight budget... even for a 2-stroke, never mind a 4-stroke. Here's a Mariner 40hp, manual start and trim (at least you don't have to worry about electrics), and it's within budget. Spend the savings on a full service including renewing the impeller, sparks, gear oil, thermostat and starter rope renewal. Clean out the fuel-filter housing and add a external fuel filer for peace of mind.
outboards new and used | Brightlingsea Boat Park and Ride

spareribs · 04 July 2012, 09:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

That's a tight budget... even for a 2-stroke, never mind a 4-stroke. Here's a Mariner 40hp, manual start and trim (at least you don't have to worry about electrics), and it's within budget. Spend the savings on a full service including renewing the impeller, sparks, gear oil, thermostat and starter rope renewal. Clean out the fuel-filter housing and add a external fuel filer for peace of mind.
outboards new and used | Brightlingsea Boat Park and Ride

Worry about the elecrics ? So its better to have pull start over electric for reliability y/n ? Basically it means I have to tilt the engine manually, so if I'm on my own and going into shore I have to be at the back and front at the same time, I am niaeve , I'm not being funny here. External fuel filter , is that an inline type ? God I love getting into new technology.

spartacus · 04 July 2012, 10:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by spareribs

Worry about the elecrics? So its better to have pull start over electric for reliability y/n?

I only say that because your budget means you're looking at an older 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine, and all the inevitable electrical problems that will crop up. Electric wise, you have a trim motor, starter motor, auto-choke, wiring looms and battery condition to consider. On my 2006 Tohatsu 60C I had the trim motor fail (worn carbon brushes) and then the starter motor the following season. Then I had corroded wires on the wiring loom, and a new pressure switch to fit in the throttle, and that was on an absolutely mint engine. Luckily I work on the engines myself and managed to do the repairs, but otherwise you're looking at parts and labour. For example a new starter motor could be £200, that's nearly a quarter of your budget.

Compare that to my Yamaha 40hp, 3 cylinder, 2-stroke (manual start and trim) - which was a straight-forward, no-nonsense reliable engine. It's simply one less thing to have consider, and part of the reason I bought it when I first started with boats.

Quote:

Basically it means I have to tilt the engine manually, so if I'm on my own and going into shore I have to be at the back and front at the same time, I am naive, I'm not being funny here.

Plently people do it. You simply raise it and lower it when you launch or retrieve. Yes, power trim would be nice, but it's not essential.

Quote:

External fuel filter, is that an inline type? God I love getting into new technology.

Yes. you'll find a fair bit of discussion as to where to place it - either after the primer bulb, or before it. It reduces the possibility of contaminants, especially water in fuel. I fitted my own one before the primer bulb. So fuel tank - filter - primer bulb - engine.

spareribs · 04 July 2012, 15:22

thanks sparticus, I want to work on my own engine as well, faily competant at things like that. I will definatly be looking a manual everything to start now you said about that extra electrical sea food, "food for the sea to consume"

so what tools would I need to work on my own engine. A fully manual one?

That one , I think you showed me earlier look good then.

spartacus · 04 July 2012, 19:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by spareribs

So what tools would I need to work on my own engine. A fully manual one?

For general servicing you'll need a decent socket set (all sizes) to fit 1/4" and 1/2" ratchets, extension bits, open-ended spanners from 6mm up, rubber mallet, grease gun, heavy duty flat-blade screw driver, wire brush for sparks, also worth getting a cheap multi-meter - good for testing continuity on internal wiring, etc. Like most things you can add to your tools as and when you need them.

Quote:

That one , I think you showed me earlier look good then.

I've no idea if it's a good one or not. Mariner 2-stroke engines are pretty solid, but like anything you need to see it running from cold, check tell-tale flow, idle speed, compression check on cylinders, general condition of outboard under cowl, lower engine mounts for movement, propeller (for dings or damage). Get as much information as you can and ask for more photographs before you set off - could save yourself a wasted journey.

Here are another couple of links. At least it let's you know what's available.

yamaha outboard - FAFB
http://www.seamarknunn.co.uk/download/usedob/used.pdf

spareribs · 04 July 2012, 23:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by spartacus

I only say that because your budget means you're looking at an older 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine, and all the inevitable electrical problems that will crop up. Electric wise, you have a trim motor, starter motor, auto-choke, wiring looms and battery condition to consider. On my 2006 Tohatsu 60C I had the trim motor fail (worn carbon brushes) and then the starter motor the following season. Then I had corroded wires on the wiring loom, and a new pressure switch to fit in the throttle, and that was on an absolutely mint engine. Luckily I work on the engines myself and managed to do the repairs, but otherwise you're looking at parts and labour. For example a new starter motor could be £200, that's nearly a quarter of your budget.

Compare that to my Yamaha 40hp, 3 cylinder, 2-stroke (manual start and trim) - which was a straight-forward, no-nonsense reliable engine. It's simply one less thing to have consider, and part of the reason I bought it when I first started with boats.

Plently people do it. You simply raise it and lower it when you launch or retrieve. Yes, power trim would be nice, but it's not essential.

Yes. you'll find a fair bit of discussion as to where to place it - either after the primer bulb, or before it. It reduces the possibility of contaminants, especially water in fuel. I fitted my own one before the primer bulb. So fuel tank - filter - primer bulb - engine.

I saw this in the friday ad for £800 , bloke sounded good on the phone , was a fisherman, assured me the engine was excellent and would see when I got there. I knocked him dowm £100 straight away. It the right type of engine for me, has some spares. What about the price for this. It all look clean in the photos. What do I need to do when I go and look at it? The gearbox work is still under waranty, sound good but the price??? too much too little? Then I noticed he had listed it before on ebay and it sold , 1 bid, guessing he started the bidding and then knowone else bidded. Feels a bit doggy , what do you think? £700 , too heavey for the searider ????

mariner 55hp outboard
hi here iam selling my mariner 55hp for sale the engine starts very easy for a pull start has just had over £400 spent on gear box paper work to show that has 12 months warrenty left on it . the engine has had a full service ready for the summer season she is manual tilt and manual start but dont let that put you off as it is a very easy engine to handle on your boat i also have a spare power head ,cdi carbs cover hood and a few other bits so lots of spare parts to go with the engine the engine is long sharft hope this helps happy bidding

Fenlander · 05 July 2012, 07:54

So it's this one onEbay... mariner 55hp tiller | eBay

Seems he bought it as a spares or repair just 3mths ago. My guess he's hardly or never used it so will have no real idea of its performance and reliability. Also the guy has 4 negatives going back in his history for not describing condition/faults properly. I wouldn't go near it.

Last time it "sold" with the one bid that was at £500. Obviously the feeling I get put anyone off bidding more... so why pay £700 now. Also a better sounding elec start Mariner same approx age/type only made £590 on Ebay a week ago.

spareribs · 05 July 2012, 15:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenlander

So it's this one onEbay... mariner 55hp tiller | eBay

Seems he bought it as a spares or repair just 3mths ago. My guess he's hardly or never used it so will have no real idea of its performance and reliability. Also the guy has 4 negatives going back in his history for not describing condition/faults properly. I wouldn't go near it.

Last time it "sold" with the one bid that was at £500. Obviously the feeling I get put anyone off bidding more... so why pay £700 now. Also a better sounding elec start Mariner same approx age/type only made £590 on Ebay a week ago.

OMG i think is the phrase, you were dead right , it started first time....................................... and never again !, there were aluminium shavings in the housing, I recon he got another engine and put the recon gbox in that and used the reciept as a selling tool. He said it had never let him down and then told me he has only used it once. He was a have a go joe mechanic. BOOO , and he was going to let me and me son drown. what a "ALL EXPLETIVES!!!!! " He also started it with the hose pipe off and told me it wouldnt hurt it as it was only for a few seconds. HE WAS A BLAGGER and a bad one at that.