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Old 27 May 2010, 20:25   #1
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Anyone want to swap trailers

I have an SR4 on a trailer that is far to big for it.... Dont ask me why, it came that way. It was explained that the owner +1 had the intention of upgrading to a bigger boat and therefore bought a bigger trailer but never upgraded.

As can be seen it just to big for my little boat. This causes great issues with recovery as you tend to winch her on too far and then she drops of the inside of the rear roller. Before I do any more damage to the underside of my Rib I though I would see if there is anyone who has the opposite problem, their boat having grown out of their trailer. Looking to simply swap.

Any thoughts and comments please get in touch.

Glenn
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Old 27 May 2010, 20:33   #2
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You could just cut it remount the tow bar and move the rear roller in a bit.
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Old 27 May 2010, 20:38   #3
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You could just cut it remount the tow bar and move the rear roller in a bit.
What he said
Very straight foward job. simples
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Old 27 May 2010, 20:42   #4
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You could just cut it remount the tow bar and move the rear roller in a bit.
And all with my swiss army knife, sticky back plastic and a boy scout. ;-)

not really thought of that, but if there was a smaller one needing to be replaced with a bigger one then a fair swap would prevent the world being deprived of thee foot of trailer......
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Old 27 May 2010, 20:58   #5
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I'd still cut it, its almost identical to my SR4 trailer apart from its not as long.
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Old 27 May 2010, 21:33   #6
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Quote:
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You could just cut it remount the tow bar and move the rear roller in a bit.


Quote:
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What he said
Very straight foward job. simples
Dont mean to be a damp squib ('killjoy' is an English translation ...) wheres me pasport for posting here

But .. a tow bar cut is NOT such a simple job for the un-initiated .. its not a hard one either, but on such a bouncy piece of hardware, a decent welding job and plating over is required

When I say decent, that doesnt just mean a guy who can use a welder, you must do this job properly which means removing the galvanizing to prep the job, otherwise you will have crystalised and weak welds because the zinc and other metals will alloy with the weld and not have the proper strength And if it were me for a true strength joint your trailer would be turned over 4 times to get proper penetration too that said.... I'm shite at inverted welds
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Old 27 May 2010, 21:43   #7
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Just bolt it back on saves welding!
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Old 27 May 2010, 21:56   #8
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Could you not move all the fittings forward then chop off the leftover on the back?

Probally a bad idea as ive never done any trailer altering but itd all i can think off.
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Old 27 May 2010, 21:58   #9
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its almost identical to my SR4 trailer..
And mine. I'd also cut it, cut it into small bits and bin it.
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Old 27 May 2010, 22:11   #10
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And mine. I'd also cut it, cut it into small bits and bin it.
Good aren't they!
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Old 27 May 2010, 22:28   #11
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are you in hythe kent or southampton?
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Old 27 May 2010, 22:30   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigmuz7 View Post
Dont mean to be a damp squib ('killjoy' is an English translation ...) wheres me pasport for posting here

But .. a tow bar cut is NOT such a simple job for the un-initiated .. its not a hard one either, but on such a bouncy piece of hardware, a decent welding job and plating over is required

When I say decent, that doesnt just mean a guy who can use a welder, you must do this job properly which means removing the galvanizing to prep the job, otherwise you will have crystalised and weak welds because the zinc and other metals will alloy with the weld and not have the proper strength And if it were me for a true strength joint your trailer would be turned over 4 times to get proper penetration too that said.... I'm shite at inverted welds
IF welding was required I would totally agree, but as Chewy says, cut, drill and BOLT these trailers have very little welded components......
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Old 27 May 2010, 23:27   #13
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are you in hythe kent or southampton?
Hi andy

I'm over in Kent. I am thinking moving as I feel om the wrong hythe for all you rib chaps .....
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Old 28 May 2010, 20:18   #14
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Hi andy

I'm over in Kent. I am thinking moving as I feel om the wrong hythe for all you rib chaps .....
thats a shame as im just down the road from hythe southampton,
and i'd a been more than happy to alter your trailer for you if you brought the cakes!
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Old 28 May 2010, 21:24   #15
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Hay Andy

grab your tools and come on down to Kent for a holiday. Miles of coast, the Thames and the Medway on the doorstep. Hours of ribbing fun.... ;-)
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Old 03 June 2010, 15:55   #16
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I have shortened many drawbars, quite easy. As others say, its nut+bolt work.

If you didnt want to tackle it yourself, our welder/fabricator would do it for a small fee at our site in Canterbury, i'm sure.
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Old 07 June 2010, 14:44   #17
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Err, the bow post and snubber are held on by ubolts, just slacken them and move it back a few inches, no more falling off the roller.

free
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Old 07 June 2010, 17:48   #18
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Err, the bow post and snubber are held on by ubolts, just slacken them and move it back a few inches, no more falling off the roller.

free
Snubber is to high and is above u bolt there winch can only ever be loose. Bow roller is welded and can't easily be moved by me.
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Old 07 June 2010, 21:24   #19
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Bow roller is welded and can't easily be moved by me.
Cut the bracket off, if it gets in the way and fix a new roller bracket with a u-bolt - piece of pi$$.
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Old 07 June 2010, 21:42   #20
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Cut the bracket off, if it gets in the way and fix a new roller bracket with a u-bolt - piece of pi$$.
i would get 2 , it could do with another just forward of the transom, i would leave the trailer length as it is, single axle trailers with short drawbars are a pig to reverse, much easier with a longer drawbar
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