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22 June 2018, 13:02
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#41
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Well, OCD boy here. What pish some folk talk.
Anyway, boat is sorted, firing on the correct number of cylinders. You'll notice I said correct number of cylinders not all cylinders...there's a story... I'm going to tell the story because if you happen to have a Yamaha HPDI you might need this info some day.
During the testing when there was a fault I did consider that the engine might idle on four cylinders and run on 6 when in gear or at a certain rpm though the left turning engine did run on 6. Just a vague recollection about some 2 strokes. I did test it by holding a spark plug against the block while having the engine put into gear and the throttle opened - still no sparks. So that clinched it... but too soon, I shoulda investigated further.
It turns out that some Yamaha 2 strokes do run on four cylinders at idle, I've got one that does and one that doesn't - 2 years younger engine runs on 6. But it didn't explain why there were no sparks when revved. There is a small microswitch on the engine's gear selector which tells the ECU when the engine is in gear and it should then fire on all cylinders. It's closed in neutral and open in gear. Faulty microswitch not giving the ECU the signal. Well you might think easy fix, just leave the switch open and it'll run on 6 cyls all the time - nope. If the ECU doesn't find a closed switch on start up it presumes a fault and when it finds a fault it runs on 4 cylinders. You gotta have a working switch. So there you have it, pocket a bit lighter! but a working engine.
I'll post a pic of the microswitch location. Blue lead.
I'm going to give the trailer the once-over but it'll have to wait so, so will the first launch. ttfn.
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That just smacks of over engineering & adding failure points. Well done for bottoming it out Mr OCD [emoji6]
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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22 June 2018, 13:06
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#42
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
That just smacks of over engineering & adding failure points. Well done for bottoming it out Mr OCD [emoji6]
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JW.
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22 June 2018, 22:34
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#43
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: denny
Boat name: breezy
Make: northcraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: honda 150
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 888
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preheat a bit and turn your amps down on your tig it looks like the weld is being overheated and turn up the post flow setting are you using a scratch start or hf ?for cleaning up try to get scotch brite discs for final finish the paint job on the skegs looks original top job
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22 June 2018, 23:20
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#44
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breezeblock
preheat a bit and turn your amps down on your tig it looks like the weld is being overheated and turn up the post flow setting are you using a scratch start or hf ?for cleaning up try to get scotch brite discs for final finish the paint job on the skegs looks original top job
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It's a scratch start inverter so pretty course, also on the blade edges you're seeing the back of the weld where there was no gas. There has been a lot of heat too because it was build up of missing blade leading edge. The metal inside the weld is not burnt though, it cleans up as it should.
With regard to the Scotch-Brite do you mean for weld prep or for blade finish?
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JW.
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23 June 2018, 22:46
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#45
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: denny
Boat name: breezy
Make: northcraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: honda 150
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
It's a scratch start inverter so pretty course, also on the blade edges you're seeing the back of the weld where there was no gas. There has been a lot of heat too because it was build up of missing blade leading edge. The metal inside the weld is not burnt though, it cleans up as it should.
With regard to the Scotch-Brite do you mean for weld prep or for blade finish?
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scotch bright for both to knock any contamination off preweld with the minimum off material removal and then post weld to give a good finish before polishing like so
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23 June 2018, 22:54
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#46
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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That's what I use but mine are a bit courser, I finish the blades with 240 grit on an orbital sander to give a random surface finish.
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JW.
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13 September 2018, 21:57
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#47
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Not yet on the water, been v busy. However, we're ready to go, all is ship-shape! Tides are a bit anti-social at the mo so it'll likely be next week for the launch.
The trailer has had a makeover, hubs, brakes, tyres, wheels and lighting, plus adjustment of the axles to get correct balance and reduce the turning radius and adjustment of the cross-beams and rollers to get the boat as low as possible to aid launch and recovery.
Though new bearings had been fitted by the seller, as usual there had been water ingress to the hubs and bearings in its previous life. The design of these parts is simply unsuitable for boat trailer use, largely because plain, unprotected steel is used. There is two critical areas for excluding water, one is the rubbing surface of the rear grease seal and the other is the hub cap with the air bleed hole in it. The hub caps are fairly easily dealt with by replacing them with bearing savers but the grease seal area is normally left to deteriorate, albeit with a bit of grease for protection. The need to constantly check this area bugs me, there's no way to inspect its condition without dismantling and then it's a rust removal exercise to regenerate a satisfactory surface for the seal to rub against. As time goes by it becomes increasingly difficult and this is the situation on this trailer.
A grease seal needs a near perfect surface to work against if it is to do its job well and a steel axle subjected to water is never going to be satisfactory. So, OCD boy set about a solution. The pictures pretty much tell the story. Bronze rings sealed on and replacement double lip seals of a matching diameter. Enjoy...
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JW.
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13 September 2018, 21:59
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#48
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Oh aye, a couple of pics while waiting for the tide...
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JW.
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13 September 2018, 22:49
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#49
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: denny
Boat name: breezy
Make: northcraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: honda 150
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 888
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did you remachine the spindles or go up a seal size to get the rings in ?
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13 September 2018, 22:57
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#50
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breezeblock
did you remachine the spindles or go up a seal size to get the rings in ?
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Went up a seal size. Rings are locktited on to ensure a seal against the pitted surface.
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JW.
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14 September 2018, 06:32
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#51
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Not yet on the water, been v busy. However, we're ready to go, all is ship-shape! Tides are a bit anti-social at the mo so it'll likely be next week for the launch.
The trailer has had a makeover, hubs, brakes, tyres, wheels and lighting, plus adjustment of the axles to get correct balance and reduce the turning radius and adjustment of the cross-beams and rollers to get the boat as low as possible to aid launch and recovery.
Though new bearings had been fitted by the seller, as usual there had been water ingress to the hubs and bearings in its previous life. The design of these parts is simply unsuitable for boat trailer use, largely because plain, unprotected steel is used. There is two critical areas for excluding water, one is the rubbing surface of the rear grease seal and the other is the hub cap with the air bleed hole in it. The hub caps are fairly easily dealt with by replacing them with bearing savers but the grease seal area is normally left to deteriorate, albeit with a bit of grease for protection. The need to constantly check this area bugs me, there's no way to inspect its condition without dismantling and then it's a rust removal exercise to regenerate a satisfactory surface for the seal to rub against. As time goes by it becomes increasingly difficult and this is the situation on this trailer.
A grease seal needs a near perfect surface to work against if it is to do its job well and a steel axle subjected to water is never going to be satisfactory. So, OCD boy set about a solution. The pictures pretty much tell the story. Bronze rings sealed on and replacement double lip seals of a matching diameter. Enjoy...
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I like that. It’s something I’ve thought about over the years, but never got around to doing. Nice work[emoji106]
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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14 September 2018, 08:27
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#52
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Manchester
Boat name: Silverfox
Make: Osprey
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200hp G2
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 149
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Looking good [emoji106]
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29 October 2018, 00:36
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#53
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Been away around Europe on motorbikes for a month but... Finally! On the basis that if there's no pic it didn't happen, here's a pic or two.
Boat ran well. Mid forties for max speed and completely stable, lands nicely on the rear section of the hull. Though I was reminded why I put suspension sheets into the Humber! The modified props held the water well so that was pleasing.
Almost no splash water aboard and the ride was good so those concerns from earlier turned to nought.
Looks kinda dull on the water, in keeping with the police stealth look I guess but I'm used to orange and yellow and red!
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JW.
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29 October 2018, 13:30
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#54
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,529
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i reckon it looks top notch JW good job
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29 October 2018, 13:48
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#55
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g
i reckon it looks top notch JW good job
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X2
Look a bit incongruous in Orange if you ask me...I'm sure it'll grow on you
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A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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05 November 2018, 23:00
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#56
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Member
Country: UK - N Ireland
Town: Armagh
Boat name: Deltastorm
Make: Delta
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha 200 v6
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 91
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I thought that boat looked well when I seen it advertised...looks even better now, well done! I will send you my delta dash for a make over [emoji23]
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05 November 2018, 23:28
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#57
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Thanks for the comments. We were out today but it turned into an adventure, got a rope spun around both props. Fortunately we were only pootling along on tickover. Managed to cut one engine free but the other was just a crushed mass and too tight. Anyway, we were only a few miles from a harbour town so got in there on one engine and went off and bought a hacksaw, sat out back on one engine while sawing through the rope on the other one. The saw cut through the mass in a oner, there were seven turns. Gave it a good looking at and all was well bar some paint bruise. Cruised home a 35knots nice and smoothly with the orange sun breaking through the evening hazy mist. The Yam 2 strokes are nice engines, I'm impressed by them. And pleased we had two of them!
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JW.
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06 November 2018, 19:58
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#58
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: denny
Boat name: breezy
Make: northcraft
Length: 6m +
Engine: honda 150
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 888
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did you have a good look around inchkeith this is the best time of year to visit as the greenery has all died back and the seabirds have fled the nest so you don't get pooped on
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06 November 2018, 20:22
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#59
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breezeblock
did you have a good look around inchkeith this is the best time of year to visit as the greenery has all died back and the seabirds have fled the nest so you don't get pooped on
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Nah, I've been there many times in the past so just dropped in for a wee look to see the seals and their pups and have a cuppa tea break.
Looking up the hill it looked as though the thieving gits have been in!
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JW.
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06 November 2018, 22:15
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#60
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breezeblock
did you have a good look around inchkeith this is the best time of year to visit as the greenery has all died back and the seabirds have fled the nest so you don't get pooped on
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Slight correction here, there is no good time to visit the forth....as you were.
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