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Old 17 May 2008, 19:07   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini View Post
I would tell you how much I am in love with my shiny new console but I'm out for dinner and already late

Cheers Andre you're a star!!
Looks good
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Old 17 May 2008, 20:46   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini View Post
I would tell you how much I am in love with my shiny new console but I'm out for dinner and already late

Cheers Andre you're a star!!
Now you are going to have to drill umty ump holes in it. Every hole you drill in a boat hurts so much.
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Old 26 May 2008, 20:43   #63
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Country: UK - Channel Islands
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Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
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Sorry it's been so long since my last update, I've been so busy working on the boat whilst trying to move house at the same time, it's been hectic to say the least!

I haven't really touched the console yet but having it here has helped me plan out what goes where under the deck. I'll be going shopping for electronics and instruments fairly soon and a packet of jigsaw blades while I'm at it

Pic 1 - 2" plastic waste pipe going in under the deck for cables, one each side for the 2 motors will exit the deck inside the console.

Pic 2 - Had new iroko trim machined up for the outer mounting of the tubes. This took hours to fit as I had to individually measure and mark out the 100 fixing holes to match what was in the hull already plus another 100 holes for the bolts that hold the tube clamping strip!

I have now made new clamping strips that hold the tube in place out of polished 316, haven't got pics yet but it does look very nice! Had to go thru the whole process of transferring the 100 hole positions from the hull to the stainless again, that plus having to bend the 50x5mm in both planes to match the bow shape meant that was a week of evenings just on its own! And I've got to repeat the whole process again for the inside

Pic 3 - This weekend I started laying the deck for good, for anyone wondering the centre section of the deck (2no 8'x4' sheets) will be removable so they will be fitted later. I used 6x50 A4 woodscrews to fix it down, bought 600 but now looks like I will need another 600 including fixing the console and seats! They're at 4" centres which may seem a lot of screws but Halmatic decided to have them staggered at 1.25" centres!

Pic 4 - 1 layer of 450csm + plus 1 layer of tissue cut to shape ready for glassing.

Pic 5 - Job done! Turned out pretty good considering I've got almost no laminating experience whatsoever It's pretty flat and smooth, I think once the non slip flowcoat goes on you won't see any of the overlaps etc. It's got a nice solid feel to it as well with no movement at all when you jump on it so I'm happy.
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Old 26 May 2008, 21:11   #64
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Looking outstanding. Maybe you should consider getting a diamond blade for your angle grinder for the laminate triming. Can you save the tubes?
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Old 26 May 2008, 21:30   #65
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Country: UK - Channel Islands
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Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
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Thanks for the tip Limey, I've already got 1
I'll have to post a pic of my toolbox then you'll see I've got most of what I need!
I did the trimming today, it actually came off ok with a stanley knife.

Tubes are great condition, just need a good clean and 1 valve replaced.

Hope your enjoying your 1st season in the Lomac!
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Old 26 May 2008, 21:40   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini View Post
Thanks for the tip Limey, I've already got 1
I'll have to post a pic of my toolbox then you'll see I've got most of what I need!
I did the trimming today, it actually came off ok with a stanley knife.

Tubes are great condition, just need a good clean and 1 valve replaced.

Hope your enjoying your 1st season in the Lomac!
My season has just ended because we have sold our house and will be moving to Mexico in 5 weeks. I have been in this house for 20 years so you will understand the challenge. Suggestion: as you have the tubes off why not inject some sealer and rotate to cover all surfaces. Wish I could do that but mine are glued on and I cannot rotate a 7M boat.
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Old 26 May 2008, 21:50   #67
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Country: UK - Channel Islands
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Make: Arctic 28/FC470
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Get a big skip, I'm sure you will have collected a fair amount of junk over the last 20 years!

I'm still undecided if the tubes are leaking or it's just temperature changes but they stay up for a couple of weeks even with the leaking valve. To be honest rotating the tubes would be a challenge even off the boat, theyre huge! Are you able to reccomend a sealer? I don't know of any success stories.
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Old 26 May 2008, 22:04   #68
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The skip is on it's way.
Temp. change vs. leaking !! I have had a huge problem with that as I have a 50 degree F. swing every 24hrs. I keep my tubes soft when boat is on trailer and they are hard by mid afternoon. I suggest you monitor the tubes for a week or so and see if they follow the air temp. I have not used sealer but have done some research on it and the best product I can find is " green slime" Have used it on car tyres, wheel barrow and trailer. We have a big problem with needles off Cactus causing slow leaks. So far so good after about 3 years.
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Old 07 June 2008, 08:01   #69
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How is the progress Martini? I'm dying to see some new pics of the beast
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Old 08 June 2008, 22:30   #70
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Country: UK - Channel Islands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memo View Post
How is the progress Martini? I'm dying to see some new pics of the beast
Got the bilge and transom done last weekend but had to get the motors off, all the work done, motors back on and boat back out of the workshop between friday night and monday morning so too busy to take pictures! Spent 40 hrs on it and finished at 1am monday morning

Will post a couple of pics this week, looking forward to offering up the console with the new seats and deciding where to put everything.
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Old 10 June 2008, 18:06   #71
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Hi Martini,

Don't forget to make the bolts of the lifting points(through the hull) watertight. I've took out mine and the "glue"between the plates/bolts and hull wasn't sufficient. Saves a lot of work and time instead of being in the water.

The deck of our Arctic is out too now, Emptying the aft tank and remove it is the next step. After that we have to consider which engine it will be. Have three options:
1 Yamaha ME432 315hp
2 Yanmar 6ly2a 440hp to Konrad sterndrive
3 Iveco NEF370 to Konrad sterndrive.
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Old 13 June 2008, 22:18   #72
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Couple more pics for you guys

Transom cleaned up and re flowcoated
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Old 13 June 2008, 22:30   #73
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Console and seats roughly in position, starting to look like a rib now!

Would anyone like to voice their opinion on the position of them? Does it look about right? Difficult to tell without the tubes on I know.

Theres so many factors to consider, weight distribution probably the most important but theres no point in me even trying to figure that one out before it goes in the water.

I guess the further forward the better in that respect but I would be compromising comfort as well. Theres the fuel fillers and tank access covers to consider as well but I'm trying not to let them influence me too much as they can all be moved.

I'm thinking along the lines of "if it looks right it probably is"
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Old 13 June 2008, 22:44   #74
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Looking good, maybe the whole a little more to the stern. But as you said, difficult when you haven't gad her in the water yet. The whole looks superb. Here a little paint action of myself with one of your pics, about the idea of our boat
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Old 13 June 2008, 22:51   #75
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Are you going to build your own console then? This was my original plan as I couldnt find what I wanted. But then I saw a Parker 900 and was sold, probably my best decision of the whole project!
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Old 16 June 2008, 23:22   #76
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A few more from the weekend:

1/ Inside the console, fuel filler on the left. On the right I made a grp moulding and glassed it in with an Index Marine box stuck on the back. All is revealed in the next pic!

2/ Blue Sea CB panel with battery switches tucked out of the way behind a waterproof hatch so both sides of the panel are watertight. To the left of the panel is a 12v socket and 2 LED's which are charge indicators for the pair of automatic charge relays which are to be installed in another Index box below.

3/ Again with fuel filler.

4/ My young apprentice, always happy to blow the dust away with an airline, should the need arise!!
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Old 16 June 2008, 23:34   #77
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1/ The other fuel filler in the seat

2/ Aft tank fitted. You can see the old filler neck cut down and capped off and a new one welded in a couple of foot further forward.

3/ Access hatch has 2 pick-ups so I can run either motor from this tank using hydraulic type quick disconnects. Also fitted is my new smartcraft compatable sender unit.
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Old 17 June 2008, 14:59   #78
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Quote:
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I'm thinking along the lines of "if it looks right it probably is"
I would be inclined to move the rear double jockeys slightly aft so there is some knee room between front and rear pods. Makes it easier for people to get onto them and makes for a little bit of space so the don't knwock the driver when you're bouncing around.
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Old 17 June 2008, 20:06   #79
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Country: UK - Channel Islands
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I would be inclined to move the rear double jockeys slightly aft so there is some knee room between front and rear pods. Makes it easier for people to get onto them and makes for a little bit of space so the don't knwock the driver when you're bouncing around.
I wanted to but then the grab rails on the back of the front seats are to far away so I've gone for just enough room to easily slip one foot through between the seats when you get on and off.
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Old 24 June 2008, 20:01   #80
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Just finished making a pair of 60 degree glands for the rigging hoses, they seem to work well.

I bought the Mercury kit for opti/verado and cut the flange off the gland that came with it. The threaded bit thats left fits perfectly inside a bit of 3" stainless tube I had kicking round.

I bought 2 rigging kits but I only need 1 length of hose so the other ones going spare if anyone's looking for some. Think its a metre long 50mm id
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