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Old 27 June 2008, 07:48   #81
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wow a really quality job, looking foward to seeing the finish article
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Old 26 July 2008, 12:33   #82
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How is the progress Martini?
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Old 30 July 2008, 18:28   #83
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Unfortunately I lost a couple of weekends to weddings and other commitments but then I think I needed a break anyway!

Got a few hours in last weekend though, got most of the cables run under the deck including the Smartcraft harnesses for the fuel tanks and paddlewheel.

Made a battery box, turned my console into swiss cheese and a few other odd jobs here and there.

Also I've fitted the 2 fwd hatches and made a start on the non slip flocoat for the deck. (see pic)

I just might get the tubes back on this weekend, this has to be done before the console is screwed down for good due to the lifting frame that I made for the tubes (as seen much earlier in this thread!)
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Old 30 July 2008, 18:39   #84
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The steel arrived for the A-frame yesterday, 3x 6m lengths of 2"x1/8" polished 316L tube.

You wouldnt believe how much it cost, even to our company who spends circa £150k pa with the steel stockists!

I've just knocked up a template of 1 of the 2 hoops to try and get an idea of the right proportions. Theres a couple of pics below with the original a frame in place as well.

I know its difficult to judge from a small pic with no tubes on etc. but I would love some input on the shape and dimensions of the frame, do you think it looks somewhere near?

The OA height above the deck is 1800mm/ just under 6'. Does anyone know the height of their a frame off the top of their heads?
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Old 30 July 2008, 21:30   #85
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I think mine was about 1350 above the transom boxes which are about 250 high. So say 1600 overall. Designed to provide a safe handhold whilst relieving myself over the transom!

I suppose 1800 is a good height if you want radar and don't want to warm your head.
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Old 01 August 2008, 12:21   #86
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Wow! It is becomming super nice Martini What was wrong with old A-frame? I think it is really nice as well.
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Old 01 August 2008, 23:12   #87
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The old A-frame looks awful! Too low and a funny shape and its got all kinds of attachments welded on. Stainless is definatly the way to go!

One idea I am taking from the old A-frame is the horizontal hoop that goes round the back of the engines. Great for protecting them from a knock and handy for hauling yourself out the water when you go for a swim! Nice to keep the odd design feature from the original boat as well I think.

Just got home from fitting the tubes back on tonight, really starting to look like a rib now! The console looks perfect on there now, still with plenty of room to walk round and still looks like its in just the right place on the hull so I'm very happy
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Old 06 August 2008, 21:22   #88
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Tubes are on! Starting to look like a boat again!
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Old 06 August 2008, 21:31   #89
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The whole operation took around 40 hours, mainly due to the new stainless clamping strips going on for the 1st time. Also I've been replacing all 14 webbing straps that go round the tubes, they needed extra stainless strips making for clamping the ends nice and tight.

All thats left to do on that side of things is make the curved strips that go on the transom. I always save the best bit till last

Pic below from tonight putting the flat bar thru the section roller. Only just made the radius, any tighter and the machine wouldnt have done it!
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Old 07 August 2008, 13:56   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini View Post
Just finished making a pair of 60 degree glands for the rigging hoses, they seem to work well.

I bought the Mercury kit for opti/verado and cut the flange off the gland that came with it. The threaded bit thats left fits perfectly inside a bit of 3" stainless tube I had kicking round.

I bought 2 rigging kits but I only need 1 length of hose so the other ones going spare if anyone's looking for some. Think its a metre long 50mm id

very nice touch, the chrome bits
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Old 09 August 2008, 22:58   #91
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Made a start on the a frame today, I had to buy a pipe bender specifically for this job as we dont have one at work but it perfomed extremely well for the price.

All in it cost me around £1500 but it gives perfect bends with no flattening of the tube etc, most quality bending machines I've seen are double this price. The pump is attached to an airline for power so theres no manual labour involved (always a good thing in my book).
Heres a link



Last pic is of the horizontal hoop that wraps round the motors. I thought I'd have a go at incorporating a curve between the bends since I had the machinary and it worked out very well I thought. Fits round the back of the cowlings quite snugly and looks fairly trick.
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Old 10 August 2008, 09:05   #92
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Hi

Can't see the link, what diameter /wall thickness will it bend ?

Jim
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Old 10 August 2008, 11:35   #93
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1500 or 150 quid,,,,,,
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Old 10 August 2008, 23:04   #94
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Sorry try again:
http://www.mittlerbros.com/tube_bender_90_hydraulic.htm



Got the price wrong its about 2000 USD for the ram, air powered pump and a set of shoes the size of your choice. You get a free instruction video which is probably great if you got a betamax or whatever it is they use over there

I tried bending 2" od 2mm wall but it wrinkled up on the inside of the bend so I used 3mm. According to the manufacturer its not supposed to be able to bend 3mm stainless but it did no problem.

Few pics below of the a frame starting to take shape
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Old 11 August 2008, 14:14   #95
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Quote:
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Sorry try again:
http://www.mittlerbros.com/tube_bender_90_hydraulic.htm



Got the price wrong its about 2000 USD for the ram, air powered pump and a set of shoes the size of your choice. You get a free instruction video which is probably great if you got a betamax or whatever it is they use over there

I tried bending 2" od 2mm wall but it wrinkled up on the inside of the bend so I used 3mm. According to the manufacturer its not supposed to be able to bend 3mm stainless but it did no problem.

Few pics below of the a frame starting to take shape
In photo three it looks like there isn't a lot of "meat" in the transom between the deck drain and the cut out for the engine? Looking a the photos of the deck it seems that there are no knees up to the top of the transom either?

Probably be ok but just curious as it's hard to tell from just a photo?
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 11 August 2008, 14:24   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookee View Post
In photo three it looks like there isn't a lot of "meat" in the transom between the deck drain and the cut out for the engine? Looking a the photos of the deck it seems that there are no knees up to the top of the transom either?

Probably be ok but just curious as it's hard to tell from just a photo?
Cookee, does post 38 alay your fears??
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Old 11 August 2008, 16:30   #97
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It can be slung out the back of an aircraft, that's good enough for me
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Old 12 August 2008, 13:59   #98
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Quote:
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Cookee, does post 38 alay your fears??
I take the photos in post 84 are before refitting those items then?

Martini - I take it you haven't cut the transom down from original at all? Are those strengthening pieces in post 38 yours or original items?

Just curious that's all! Nice rigging by the way!
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 12 August 2008, 19:23   #99
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Cookee- The stainless angle in post 38 is something I made to replace a piece of timber that did a similar thing. It was a bit rotten and the wrong height as I've slightly changed the deck height at that point. Also with it being bolted into the 4 main stringers under should give a bit of extra strength.

Re the aluminium plate that sits on top of the deck and against the inside of the transom, I will have to unbolt the motors and refit that at some point but theres access holes under the plate for getting to cables etc which is why I left it out for now.

The transom cut out is all original but when you look at the back of the boat in its entirety ie. transom, stringers, knees etc. you can see that all the strength comes from nearer the centre of the boat. The outer parts of the transom don't really do much except hold the tubes in place and keep out the water. The fact that theres not much meat between the bailers and the cut out I dont think makes a lot of difference!

Hope that answers your question!
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Old 12 August 2008, 21:48   #100
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Shame you didn't have that pipe bender 6 months ago..... I could have commissioned you to make my A-frame for me instead of KC in St Lawrence.
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