Super Student Shakespeare Shenanigans

[codprawn]

Originally Posted by slimtim

hhhmmm, yes...what like this? Thanks Andy

Can someone please give me some exact details of how I polish this stainless up? Can I get a spinny head thing to put on a drill? If so how much and where from!?

Tim

I use a bench polisher - best polishing medium is Solvol Autosol from somehwere like Halfords - really great stuff - will even polish perspex!!!

You could use a polishing mop in a leccy drill if you want. If you have heavy welding deposits you need to sand it down first - solvol is literally just for polishing!!!

[Pookay]

Originally Posted by slimtim

Can someone please give me some exact details of how I polish this stainless up? Can I get a spinny head thing to put on a drill? If so how much and where from!?

Tim

As they are detached I would ask around if any one you know has a bench mounted polishing wheel - with any luck they will have all the compounds to bring it up niiiiiiice.

Failing that then a motorbike shop will have the necessary compounds and drill attachements - but will be a real faff (small surface area and all that)...

Elbow grease is the last and least preferred option.

Good luck.

[Hightower]

Originally Posted by codprawn

If you have heavy welding deposits you need to sand it down first - solvol is literally just for polishing!!!

Cheeky git Codprawn!!...You slag .

One of my best welding achievments to date!

Tim the main tube is pretty good and will only need lightish polishing to remove a few marks.

The plating will need more polishing, but only the bits you see, the top ones I attempted myself before welding and aren't too bad, just some minor bits where the welds are (dis-coloured metal). The bottom ones need a bit more, might be worth hightailing yourself down to Woolworths and buying a mini highspeed polishing/grinding set they sell. I have one of these and find it brilliant and loads of things.

Andy

[gtflash]

what shakespeare hull is the boat?? do they do any different sizes? what the deadrise? is it a flowcoated deck?

i remember the 650 hard boat had an excellent ride..

[slimtim]

Its the 520 sports RIB hull. Made from the same mould as the 620 RIB. Deadrise is 24deg I think and it does have a glassed in ply deck with flo coat over the top. Contact Stevetheboat on here for more info.

Tim

[slimtim]

hypalon glue does strange things to ones head...I feel sick and kinda dizzy

[Nick Hearne]

Get your head out of the tin!

[bogib]

You have then found a replacement if you run out of Brennivín

Bogi

[Ezgoing]

Tim


Great to see the project progressing.

I have found the Black & Decker Mouse to be a gem for polishing Stainless steel. Included in the standard kit are a number of different shaped heads which are very good for all the akward angles. You can use a variety of abrasives with the mouse including wet and dry , fine sandpaper and a pot scub like material(Teflon ?) The mouse willl alos prove useful for all the finishing on the fiberglas work.

Best of luck.

rgds

[slimtim]

Ok, haven't had much time to update this, but things have been happening (slowly).

Rubbing strake is on, although it needs a little touching up as some edges haven't stuck properly. I need to finish off the tubes around the bow and tidy up a few bits.

Transom has been cut away a little to accept the engine saddle (stevetheboat...whats the red layer next to the plywood in the transom?).

Console design has been altered for use as a single central driving position because I discovered that I wasn't going to fit side by side seating in. I have attached a fancy CAD drawing of the console I did today. This has helped me ensure that panels are not twisted (I figured it would be easier to make if the panels weren't twisted) and will enable me to calculate the exact panel sizes.

I have in my garage, 3 sheets of ply, a B pack of west system epoxy, a load of colliodal silica and some pumps. I decided against the foam core idea as the foam I had in mind is a bit "crumbly" and with plywood I won't have to glass the inside, just epoxy it.

Engine bolts are almost sorted (see my engine bolt thread!) and I'm getting an entel VHF and Garmin 160 blue fish finder nice and cheap Also, my aluminium fuel tank should be being made any time soon.

I also now have one of those bembridge outboards covers thanks to Ray Bradman, although it doesn't fit very well without a console in the boat!

I will post some more pics of the tube stuff in a jiffy.

Tim

[slimtim]

Ok, here are some pics from the last of the tube fitting.

1) Cutting out and sanding
2) sanding the tube ready for the rubbing strake
3) adding strengthening etc to the transom
4) apply glue
5) transom again

[slimtim]

1) transom again just before adding the final patch
2) all finished...little bit shoddy here and there but bloody good for our first attempt if I don't say so myself...its not easy!

[slimtim]

1) bow area ready for completion
2) strips along the bottom...very difficult not to get creases. I have a few so will have to cut them out and stick a patch over the top.
3) rubbing strake on...my helpers fell asleep when the horrible cleaning up job needed to be done!
4) cheap labour...not like it used ot be
5) Proposed fairlead at the front cut from left over rubbing strake.

[stevetheboat]

Originally Posted by slimtim

Transom has been cut away a little to accept the engine saddle (stevetheboat...whats the red layer next to the plywood in the transom?).
Tim

The "red stuff" is a structural adhesive manufactured by Scott Bader and is used extensively by the aircraft and high performance boat industry for all manner of structural bonding, filleting of frames and fairing where sheer and peel strength of a joint, combined with light weight, is a pre-requisite.
We actually bond the entire transom plywood into the boat before overlaminating with multi axial glass cloth.
PS its not cheap @ nearly £9.00 kg.!

The tubes look good Tim and the the whole package seems to be coming together really well. Its a lot more work than most owners realise though is it not? - now perhaps people can begin to see why RIB retail prices are,apparently, so high.
Well done and good luck with the rest of the fit out.

[Hightower]

Looking good man!!

Where did you get your teardrop white fendering that you are using for the bow strake from Tim?

[slimtim]

Thanks steve...yes it is a lot of work, but then again I am so busy with photography and going to the beach ( ) that I haven't really had the time to really get stuck in with the project. Little bits here and there so far. I'm starting doing the console now so hopefully I will make more progress. Its good to hear that some quality materials were used in the construction of my hull, I have to say its built like a tank and I can't see it breaking in a hurry...touch wood!

Andy, the fendering is the light grey stuff supplied to me by henshaw. They gave me a generous amount so I'm putting the excess to good use. I may construct some form of fendering to protect where the tube joins the hull at the bow incase the boat gets pushed up against a pontoon...as detailed on a thread by Bruce not not ago.

Tim

[Hightower]

How geneous were they Tim........ .

Enough for Bow Fenders for two Ribs?

[slimtim]

afraid not andy I will have a check though just to be sure.

Tim

[Nick Hearne]

Looking very good, you must be chuffed to bits with that job!

[Jizm]

Looks like the bees knees Tim. You're right though, you can't get the staff these days, and be prepared for all the people who crawl out of the woodwork when you get her on the water and then dissapear when it comes to cleaning her etc....
good luck, keep us posted.
Jiz