The Best of the West ..250 miles of it anyhoo ...

[The Gurnard]

Hi guys ... I have been making the most of the exceptional weather here on the west coast of Scotland. . and just travelled 250 miles round the islands of Scarba, Jura, Colonsay, Cara and Gigha to name but a few. This map shows the route I took.



The trip started off ok ..leaving Taynuilt the cloud was low but land visibility was good.



Things started to brighten once I reached Oban and the open sea but approaching the island of Belnahua ..I could see that soon I would not be able to see at all.



I don’t have a plotter so rely on map and compass..plus a good local knowledge of this area..so bearing were taken to guide me along the eastern side of Lunga..which I hoped to follow its coast then nip through the Corryvreakan whirlpool to the western side of Jura. Tides in this whole area are very fierce...but they also help as I know the locations of the main flows of the races... like landmarks



Visibility was atrocious ..this is a view of the wake from the boat..visibility was down to 50 yards so I decided it too risky to go through the Corryvreckan as its a very unpredictable place ..so chose the slightly easier rout through the grey dogs.



I prayed my timing was right and the standing waves that guard the grey dogs has eased off. I could not see a thing as I was swept along and can only describe the passage as like being in a washing machine. The trip across the Great Race of the Corryvrekan was even worse I knew the race would push me out to sea ..so I had to compensate for that and then hope I didn’t end up in the whirlpool. Im delighted to say I crossed as planned and reached the far side at Eilean Mor.. yeah

[The Gurnard]

It was heavy mist most the way to Loch Tarbet on Jura where I set up camp for a couple of nights. Visibility improved in the evening and in fact..it turned into a heatwave.



I love Jura in a heatwave..last time was several years ago .. the heat turned my sassages and milk etc rancid. This time I was prepared..I took tinned food and tinned gravy. The following day I headed round Colonsay, it has simply stunning sandy beaches..

and cliffs with more birds than I can count. The noise and smell is overpowering being so close to so many foul fowl.



Next day I headed down the Sound Of Islay and because the sea was calm decided to do the 15 mile crossing to the island of Gigha. All was going well until around ¾ way across. I was in a day dream when suddenly .. a huge mountain of black blubber broke surface only 100 yards from the boat. I confess I got a fright as a very large minke whale slowly rolled over..its back was around 5 feet out the water !! Its the closed I have ever been to a living one.
Sorry no photo of that as I was not prepared for the event...and they don’t hang around ... I think it got as big a fright as I did.

To cut a long story short as it will all be in the forth coming video.. I returned by going through the Corryvreckan which was non eventful.. then took my time going back to the grey dogs as I wanted the standing waves to just start but still small enough to allow me though. As I was going through a pod of Bottle Nose Dolphins started to entertain me.



Then they turned and started following another boat that passed me going the other way..so I turned and followed both the boat and the dolphins..a perfect end to another great Gurnard Adventure.



Hope you watch the video when its made as its got stunning scenery in it.. A lot of other interesting things too. Thanks for reading the intro

[Hat]

Looks absolutely stunning. Glad you had a good trip, I used to go out with Bob Jones
on the Gaelic Rose we regularly used to see dolphins
Look forward to video All the best

[The Gurnard]

Thanks for commenting Hat, its appreciated. The flat calm seas make spotting any creatures breaking the surface very easy.

I was on a pilgrimage, visiting not only places from my past..but sacred places of my ancestors ..many who are buried on these islands.

This is the roughest crossing I had to do.. Loch Tarbet on Jura to Colonsay. I had a few 5am starts so I could enjoy flat calm seas before the breeze rippled the sea surface..but also because I need to keep my heavy inflatable afloat and low tides were awkward for late "sleepins". So saying it was still a bouncy tide race rounding the southern end of Orancay



I passed this tall ship making her way round Scotland ..I always get a delight seeing tall ships.. not as museums tied to piers .. but at sea..where they were made to be.



I tried to get to Orancay the last time I was at Jura but the tide race prevented me. I wanted to visit the Priory where so many of Scotland’s ancestors were buried..simple because the sand is easy to dig... and there were no wolves on the island to eat their corpses.



The Mull of Cara was the furthest south I went. I recalled going round it in a Seago Slat Floor powered with a 2.5HP outboard..it was the start of my inflatable boat journeys.. quite a few years ago.



I confess getting slightly sizzled camping on Eilean Mor MacCormack where St Cormac built his chapel. I had the island to myself that night.



In a happy stupor ..I made my own tribute to all the Saints and Ancestors who made the west of Scotland the place it is and also for giving me the ability to keep on seeing it despite my age and the boat I use is not much bigger than the Coracles they used to access these remote places.



I thought of Fenlander and his family as I toured the Faery Isles of loch Sween. I met him in this area only a few years ago..and also watched an Osprey nesting here. There was no sign of the osprey or its nest ..nor of Fenlander ..a sure sign that all things change and nothing stays forever.



Yup..it was a remarkable journey for me. I will attach the video when its made ..but it could be a week or so as the sea is still calling my name.

[Steve509926]

Some stunning photos Donny puts my feable attempt at videoing some porpoises on the Gower to shame!

Look forward to watching the video.

[The Gurnard]

Your day will come Steve..you just have to put in the hours at sea and they will then come to you. Once they start..they are like busses and they all arrive at once.

The big Bottle Nose ones are very friendly ..and I don’t mind meeting them in a boat half their size. Im not so keen on getting mobbed by common dolphins though.. I get the feeling they want to get me in the sea beside them

Bottle nose dolphins.. my brother took the photos as Im in the wee 2.75m F Rib





This close to them..and you soon realise..their breath stinks

I will watch your video once I settle Steve ..hope you had a great time.

[Steve509926]

We had a brilliant time thanks Donny.

We did meet some dolphins just off the coast at New Quay but not long enough for me to get my camera /phone out. I must get a Gopro and set it up on a Gimbal.

It is a little disconcerting when you realise how big they are, two swam under Redneck and they must have been at least 12 foot long.

[jambo]

Hi Donny great trip looking forward to seeing video. Sorry I missed you as I was up at that time you should have popped into Tayvallich. David hasn’t been up for a few years now. FYI the ospreys have moved over the hill Ann are on the Scottish side now. Fairy isles is always nice to potter around. Hope c u soon. Was speaking to Jeff this morning by Ribnet message system.
Take care
Billy

[The Gurnard]

Yup..they are big heavy creatures Steve..and when they whack the bottom on your boat with huge powerful tails..you will be glad of a solid floor and not a lightweight airfloor. The tin floor of my quicksilver makes a satisfying ring when whacked by one.. talking of which .. I must check to see if it dented it.



Hi Billy..I had a nosey in Tayvallich yesterday looking for a RIB with yellow tubes but didn’t see any .. so suspected you were not there just now .

Thanks for the info on the Osprey..I always wanted to go back with a long lens to video it. I only got a few distant photos when I last saw it so was disappointed it wasnt there.



Hope all is well in your land too as I hear you had a few changes too. Stay safe and one day we will meet up.

[Fenlander]

>>> thought of Fenlander and his family as I toured the Faery Isles of loch Sween

Appreciated and the goodwill is returned with similar thoughts over the period you moved to your new location... Mary commented it is a rare chance to settle in such an ideal place for active retirement years. We've stood on the bridge looking down at the falls so many times... fantastic to be based just up the loch.

For our part the Covid period, continuing responsibility for 90yr old parents in a retirement flat and daughter remaining in a very uncertain state have produced our perfect storm to make week plus holidays impossible for this period. Single days out are all we can dream of hence the recent distractions of SIB trials/changes have been welcome.

Your recent trip above has covered broadly speaking our most favoured sibbing area... however we've ventured no further west than nosing into the Sound of Jura on our family outings.

Look forward to the video.

[The Gurnard]

Hi David ..yup I knew you were having a time of things lately. I learned a long time ago that life is like a game of snakes and ladders..it has highs and lows ..and the best we can do is keep playing the game.

My Annus Horribilis was 2005 and went through all you are going through. In those days, I just wanted everything to be over and I couldn’t see a way forward. However .. I kept playing the game in my own way, and with time and using my best cards at the right time, I'm at the top of a ladder again. So saying .. Health has taken its toll on me too and I have had to give up the mountains which as you know were another great passion of mine. Im determined to keep boats in my life as long as possible.

So Im making the most of being at the top of the ladder just now. Life experience has told me the next snake to slide down will happen before I know..

You and your family have my sympathy as I have been there.. stay safe and know a ladder will come along when its time .

[Maximus]

Sounds like one of you're "Classic" trips Mate
Like Jambo said.....I can't wait to see the Video

[The Gurnard]

Hey..that is the intro of the new video Maximus.. it starts by saying my all time favourite trip was when I landed on Oransay in 2018. It was a similar heatwave ..and back then I was sorry I didn’t have enough fuel to go round the Island ..but promised myself that one day I would return and it would be in a heatwave too. I kept my promise

Red Gurnard in 2018



Grey Gurnard 2021



Im also delighted to hear that you and your good missus have kept your promise to yourselves too.. congratulations ... and I hope we can have a gravy or three together soon enough to celebrate

[willk]

The RIB really looks the part D, nice one!

[The Gurnard]

Thanks Willk..its the small attention to detail that makes the gravy taste even sweeter.

I also thought of you when I was on Oronsay *** as I thought I could just see the Donegal coast ? ... way beyond the Rhinns of Islay .. Would I be correct in thinking this ?


*** (I only call it Orancay when Im no longer thirsty)

[willk]

Originally Posted by The Gurnard

Thanks Willk..its the small attention to detail that makes the gravy taste even sweeter.

I also thought of you when I was on Oronsay *** as I thought I could just see the Donegal coast ? ... way beyond the Rhinns of Islay .. Would I be correct in thinking this ?

Right direction. Likely our uplands, I can't see anything west of Islay.

[Pipster100]

Hi Gurnard,
Love reading your posts, your recent trip has brought back many happy memories from growing up and spending many weeks holidaying on Loch Sween. Started off at a very young age playing round the Loch in a Mirror Dinghy, either sailing or with a 2Hp Mariner outboard. Had the mirror for quite a few years before it was sold and a Zodiac Futura Mk II was bought....What a boat after the Mirror, so many more places to explore. The Fairy Isles was a favourite spot for a picnic. When I was in my early 20's I'd saved up enough to buy a H27 sailing boat and spent the summer sailing round the Loch and surrounding area. I'm now living in Cornwall so haven't been back up that way for some time.Looking forward to your video.

[The Gurnard]

Thanks for your kind words Pipster100. I spent a lot of my early years on Loch Sween too. Both it and Loch Craignish were my favourite areas way back then.
Perhaps we saw each other in the passing

I was mostly with an Avon roundtail and 2.5hp outboard. The family had Mirror and Wayfarer Dinghys too and I miss those sailing days..but that was mostly on the Solway Firth. I put a mast and sail onto my F Rib last season and relive those early days. I do keep wondering if I should not get a Mirror Dinghy again.. perhaps now Im on the coast I might

[jeffstevens763@g]

Nice trip Donny looking forward to the video

[The Gurnard]

Thanks Jeff..the video will bring back memories for you too.. Jura 2019 ..not a heatwave but still a great adventure ..those were the days