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18 January 2006, 19:40
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#81
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Garfish
mi breef sez credidi me felem vidisse
gArf
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I also had a Greek brief once, F'ng useless!! Couldn't understand a word he said!!
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18 January 2006, 23:27
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#82
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollulnan
I also had a Greek brief once, F'ng useless!! Couldn't understand a word he said!!
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Yup we had one on here for a while too
Hugh, isn't the fuel vent supposed to be higher than the filler cap ?
Pete
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Ribnet is best viewed on a computer of some sort
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18 January 2006, 23:43
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#83
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,924
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Pete
Can confirm that my vent is placed at the same height as the filler, just like hugh's..
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And yes, I get fuel all over the deck and my feet when I fill it up.
Nasher.
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19 January 2006, 00:19
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#84
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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At least you know when it's full .
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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19 January 2006, 08:16
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#85
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2 x 370hp
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,884
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Ohhh, now that will be fun, come to think of it my other boat has the vent quite high up but the filler is on the deck which i dont like
will see how i get on and change it if necessary, thanks for the heads up
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19 January 2006, 08:52
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#86
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Mind if I ask what this is?
Pete
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Ribnet is best viewed on a computer of some sort
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19 January 2006, 09:00
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#87
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Over here
Boat name: S.S. Nobstick
Make: Three Wise Monkeys
Length: 3m +
Engine: 44lbs of thrust....
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete7
Mind if I ask what this is?
Pete
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We youngsters think of it as an amplifier....... you may remember the valve powered ones in the back of your radiogramme?
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19 January 2006, 09:06
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#88
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jono
We youngsters think of it as an amplifier....... you may remember the valve powered ones in the back of your radiogramme?
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Nah, it's the arse end of a Binatone black and white portable TV. I know, coz my Granny has one.
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19 January 2006, 09:19
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#89
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: New Forest Hampshire
Boat name: Moonshine
Make: Jeanneau Sun 2000
Length: 6m +
Engine: Honda 6hp
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete7
Mind if I ask what this is?
Pete
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Its one of these :
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/pro...s_id/2611.html
Init
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19 January 2006, 09:30
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#90
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jono
We youngsters think of it as an amplifier....... you may remember the valve powered ones in the back of your radiogramme?
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What a cheek, you must be much older than me to get a waist line like yours.
So has Hugh fitted this to try and keep up with the neibours down the road in Alton ?
http://www.rib.net/forum/showthread....ght=confession
Pete
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19 January 2006, 09:42
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#91
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2 x 370hp
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,884
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yes as indicated by philip it is one of the items on his thread link, i powered it all up via an mp3 player last night and the sound is not bad. I fitted the console top to the base and started connecting it all up and powering up the fishfinder and gps etc. so is starting to come together
one issue with the amp i have is how resistant it will be to moisture and condensation etc, plus it is hanging upside down and has a metal hood which might collect water!! so is a bit of an experiment at the moment. I wanted to have no moving parts in the stereo is an amp and mp3 player rather than a normal cd head unit, and it has worked out quite cheap as well.
Not keeping up with the jones as indicated as i always have stereo systems on my boats, ie for the last 10 years now..
any other advice and observations are great...
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21 January 2006, 18:20
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#92
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2 x 370hp
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,884
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engine pipework finished and all connected, tough getting all the cables and pipes down that trunking!!
paddlewheel cable and transducer cables flowcoated in,
console fitted to base and all operational now
engine control cables connected and set
hand grab rail to fit under icom radio
mp3 player to fit somewhere, well chuffed with stereo sound from it
screen to source (template done) and fit then get windscreen rail made and fitted
New member Russell came round today for chat
busy day today
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21 January 2006, 18:33
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#93
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hampshire
Boat name: Tornado
Make: Nimbus Nova
Length: 7m +
Engine: Mercury 115hp
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 477
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looking good hugh - tempted to start a little project myself but have the technical nouse of a 2 year old and would no doubt feck it all up. Just out of interest, without your engineering background, how much of the boat would you have done yourself without too much difficulty?
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Stormribs.com
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21 January 2006, 18:48
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#94
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2 x 370hp
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,884
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Gosh what a question.......not sure i can answer that one
I tend to turn my hand to everything and anything so not much phases me......except bricklaying and plastering where a fair bit of practice is needed to get the knack and a reasonable speed, i can do bricklaying and plastering but i tend to take too long so is easier to get someone else to do it. I guess you need to know your own limits!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by donutsina911
looking good hugh - tempted to start a little project myself but have the technical nouse of a 2 year old and would no doubt feck it all up. Just out of interest, without your engineering background, how much of the boat would you have done yourself without too much difficulty?
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21 January 2006, 19:05
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#95
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: sunny south coast
Boat name: Pride of Bilboa
Length: 10m +
MMSI: 4
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 521
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Still looking good Chris.. One thing does spring to mind tho, how easy is it going to be to replace either the transducer or the paddlewheel if they don't work??
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tony
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21 January 2006, 19:33
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#96
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2 x 370hp
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,884
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i tested them both, if they dont work in the future or fail will need to cut out the cable with a dentist type drill and fit a new one, wont be too big an issue, i am just flowcoating the cable into the corner for protection and to hide it,
hopefully i wont need to take it out in the near future
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcwozere
Still looking good Chris.. One thing does spring to mind tho, how easy is it going to be to replace either the transducer or the paddlewheel if they don't work??
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21 January 2006, 21:02
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#97
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Newquay, Cornwall.
Boat name: None :(
Make: None :(
Length: 5m +
Engine: None :(
MMSI: None :(
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,280
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Chris - the thing to watch with electrical cables is there will be a massive week point at the point where the cable stops being "glued" in position and starts to be able to flex again.
If there is any movement possible in the cable at the point where it emerges from the flow coat - it wont last long at all as all the stress from any movement will be concentrated at that point.
If possible try to fit a stress relief rubber tube like you get on head phone plugs...
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21 January 2006, 21:33
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#98
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: hants
Boat name: Viper
Make: Osprey Vipermax 6.5
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 opti
MMSI: 235 036 257
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 74
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cheers Roy
a good point, i have fitted a cable fixing just along from where it comes thru the transom box so that movement is minimal before it goes into the trunking to try to minimise any stress. it is fitted along the floor of the transom box so should be fine.
as it is at the rear of the boat it will get less impacts than if it was at the front.....hopefully!
oops used mrs pc for my reply...haha
Quote:
Originally Posted by roycruse
Chris - the thing to watch with electrical cables is there will be a massive week point at the point where the cable stops being "glued" in position and starts to be able to flex again.
If there is any movement possible in the cable at the point where it emerges from the flow coat - it wont last long at all as all the stress from any movement will be concentrated at that point.
If possible try to fit a stress relief rubber tube like you get on head phone plugs...
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21 January 2006, 22:13
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#99
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon
one issue with the amp i have is how resistant it will be to moisture and condensation etc, plus it is hanging upside down and has a metal hood which might collect water!! so is a bit of an experiment at the moment. I wanted to have no moving parts in the stereo is an amp and mp3 player rather than a normal cd head unit, and it has worked out quite cheap as well.
any other advice and observations are great...
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Don't know if you have already done this but a great way of protecting the circuit boards is to spray them liberally with an insulating varnish or laquer. Holt's Damp Start(stupid name) is great for waterproofing electrical stuff - designed for protecting ignition components.
I have seen quite a lot of so called marine electronics that have nothing much more than this and yet are far more expensive than normal.....
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21 January 2006, 22:35
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#100
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Reading, Hants
Boat name: Juicy
Make: Sealine F43
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2 x 370hp
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,884
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what a brilliant idea, i will do that tomorrow. thinking back i have used it before and have a tin in the garage i think....cheers for that
i am also going to drill a couple of drain holes in the metal surrounding to allow water to escape if it condensates in there.
cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by codprawn
Don't know if you have already done this but a great way of protecting the circuit boards is to spray them liberally with an insulating varnish or laquer. Holt's Damp Start(stupid name) is great for waterproofing electrical stuff - designed for protecting ignition components.
I have seen quite a lot of so called marine electronics that have nothing much more than this and yet are far more expensive than normal.....
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