To St. Malo and Beyond - July 2005

[Hugh Jardon]

looks like a fab trip and i have really enjoyed reading it, keep the posts coming as makes good reading

[The Jackeens]

Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon

looks like a fab trip and i have really enjoyed reading it, keep the posts coming as makes good reading

Cheers Chris

Will do soon. Just laying low cos of the photo of Pierre Sept. Women have been pestering us for his phone no.

Us

[Pete7]

We arrived at Dinan late afternoon and just for a change it was raining again. Indeed we had now weathered 7 nights of heavy rain; tents, clothes and sleeping bags were soggy, moral sagging. It was supposed to be scorchie hot in France, after all it was August . The pleading eyes of Kathleen and Anto when they spied the Great Western Hotel with its large 3 star AA sign outside said it all The boys still up for another few nights camping caved in and Kathleen was despatched to the reception to sweet talk 3 rooms out of them with her best linguistic skills. She needed have bothered the receptionist had a deep Glasgow accent but none the less did us a deal on 3 rooms at short notice which we were very grateful for.

Intelligence reports from Charles in Jersey 3 days previously proved accurate and the very pretty medieval town of Dinan situated on the top of a very deep gorge and full of character, definately worth the effort to reach. Indeed walking up the steep hill to the town centre with its fairy tale castle the following morning was very character building and not unsurprisingly required several stops at the local cafes to test the chocolate pastries. Dinan with its low bridge over the now narrow canal is the end of the line for most yachts unless they step there masts and for Paul and Kathleen the last sign of civilisation for several days to come. We stayed two nights in Dinan with the ribs moored up directly outside the hotel and referred to by all the locals as “Le Zodiacs” seems there is only one make of rib in France. They also were astonished to learn that we had travelled this far. We celebrated P&Ks wedding anniversary in the style one would hope to become accustomed in life with a meal in the Great Western restaurant on the last evening and very much on the lines of the “last supper” for the following day Martin, Anto and myself had to start the journey home whilst P&K pushed on into unexplored deepest and darkest France.

[Pete7]

DINAN to GUERNSEY Sun 30 Aug 05 (I think but no one was caring to much by now)

The morning dawned early and the bright sunshine lifted our spirits for the long trip back to Guernsey were Martin, Anto and I had booked a B&B. After a hearty full cooked breakfast in the Great Western, and final “Bon Voyages” over we waved goodbye to P&K and headed north. The trip up the Rance had taken 4 hours at a pleasant walking speed but reading the Shell Channel Guide hinted at a 15 knot speed limit down the wider parts of the lower river. So whilst the other canal users were busy frying up breakfasts we headed off for the first of the locks on our way home. Timing was perfect and bribing the lock keepers on the way up meant we were able to drive straight into the locks without fuss, another useful tip from Charles. Out into the much wider lower river the throttles were eased forward and we slowing increased speed up to the 15 knot limit. However sighting the last lock at St Malo and the red traffic light suddenly turn green meant we had to cover the last 2 miles in quick time, at 28 knots. The lock has a road bridge at the upstream end which yachts can’t pass underneath until the lock has dropped about 8m so this time the ribs were invited to go first easily clearing the road bridge. 20 minutes later we exited the lock back into the sea. A quick refuel in St Malo paid for with cash since the marina is the only place on this planet that only accepts French credit cards (how quaint) and we awere off, well after coffee and pains chocolait

St Malo harbour is very well protected from the elements so we didn’t see the light winds start to build up during the morning. As we left the harbour white waves could be seen out at sea but we carried on hoping the shallow water was the problem and that “it would improve” (to quote Alan Priddy). It didn’t (never does) and we were now faced with a 52 mile journey with a F5 - 6 on the nose. Remedy tried getting up on top of the waves but gave up after a series of heavy landings so we settled down to 12 knots and the thought of a long hard slog to windward for the next 4 hours. As each wave broke, spray would fly across the ribs finding its way down your neck soaking everything you wore under the foul weather gear. To add to the problems the fuel vent on Remedy was now pumping neat petrol out with every wave as the tank was completely full of fuel. Anto was covered in petrol and the dye in her gloves running across the white deck. However an inspired decision several days previously saw Martin and Anto purchase 2 open faced motorcycle helmets in matching colours which now came into there own. After an hour and a half we cleared the minkies and altered course to Guernsey still hidden in the mist. The tall headlands of Jersey came into view through the drizzle and whilst looking very tempting would have meant changing hotel bookings and a longer journey the following day, so we pressed on to Guernsey. After 3 hours we started to pick up some protection from the island still only just visible on the horizon. So after a quick coffee, fag and mars bar break we gradually increased the speed up to our normal 24 knots. This difference between travelling at 24 knots rather than 12 was a huge boost to moral as the GPS displayed “distance to go” actually changes every time you look at it rather than just sitting there saying "you have a long way to go". During the last few miles up to St Peters Port dark grey clouds hung over the island but thankfully the rain stopped.

We met up with Nick from Lymington Sea Start outside the harbour waiting for the RYA annual cruise to form up like a flotilla for there trip home. Nick acting as escort for the trip. His huge yellow Carson 9m rib with twin oil burners looked superb as he sat behind the large cabin console with his mug of tea dressed in jeans and not a sign of water anywhere. Martin and I both made a mental note along the lines of “we are going to need a bigger boat”

However what we were not expecting was the queue at the St Peters Port fuel pontoon as 20 white fibreglass gin palaces lined up for diesel . We watched Mike Belamy (of Lancing Marine) put 2 nozzles into his 55 ft speed boat and walk away for a coffee. 30 minutes later he returned and the boat still wasn’t full. After an hour we finally got to the pumps only to be asked how much do you want. 100 L of petrol and another of diesel was the reply, only to be met with you will be lucky, the alarms are ringing the tanks are nearly empty. We managed to fill both boats just, and on presenting the credit card at the till were asked if we were part of the RYA cruise. We said yes and got another 10% off the already cheap fuel prices. Moving over to the pontoons the Harbourmaster took pity on Anto and after confirming we would be away at 8 am the following morning allowed us to moor up for free on the dinghy pontoon. Top bloke!

A taxi ride to the hotel saw the 3 of us crash out exhausted having completed the hardest leg so far.

[ollyit]

good read, sounds quite hardcore!

[The Jackeens]

It was indeed a special Anniversary. And Dinan was indeed charming...Martin (master of the one-liner) was heard to say it was a great place to have a crepe! Of course when in Brittany...!!!
The medieval ramparts of Dinan simply demand closer examination despite a near-vertical climb up the cobbled streets. Some even defied vertigo to visit the Clock Tower!
As we all began to think about the next stage of our trip, the friendly Monsieur from the Capitainerie was extremely helpful as he plotted our river course through the many locks that lay ahead. We got some provisions for our companions and bid them a sad farewell on the quayside on Sunday (31/7). Merlin was finally packed and we made a steady 5 knots towards Léhon lock and the Breton Interior.

Chatelier Lock (before Dinan)

photo : Paul

Nirvana!!! The Hotel!!!

photo : Paul

Medieval Dinan . Insert : Anto & Martin

photo : Paul

Old Spice, Merlin and Remedy in the Port of Dinan

photo : Paul

Some more (uniquely presented!!!) info on Dinan here http://www.bretagnenet.com/dinan/anglais/

[robin]

Cracking pictures.

[The Jackeens]

Thank you sir!

Paul

[codprawn]

Love the parachute!!!

[The Jackeens]

Originally Posted by codprawn

Love the parachute!!!

Would that be Pete 7's colonial sunshade to which you are alluding codprawn?

missus

[Martin]

Excellent posts and pics as ever. Sorry we have'nt contributed more but I have recently started a new job and it is rather taking over whilst 'I get me feet under the desk'.

M & A

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by codprawn

Love the parachute!!!

took it along to keep the sun off, turned out that it rains every day in France during the month of August , you would have thought that all those ex pats who now live there for 6 months of the year to avoid tax would have told us this.

More of the saga to follow this week

Pete

[The Jackeens]

Never on a Sunday

There is an argument for doing nothing in France on a Sunday- if you're in a good place (fed and watered also ). We should know that by now!
But the lure of the snaking river was strong and we gathered our goods and chattels aboard Merlin leaving hospitable Dinan behind. Stowing away was a much more casual affair, as, travelling at 5 knots one can even read the Sunday papers and make coffee (if one happens to be navigator at the time! )

Civilisation gave way to lush green verges once again and the river cut through a deep gorge before the landscape opened out to the tranquil sylvan setting of our third lock : Léhon.

Locks were still a novelty to us and we admired the lock-keeper's cottage and surrounding garden before tying up next to a SIB on the little pontoon. The couple on board nodded politely before attending once again to organising their picnic lunch on the grassy bank.

Even that didn't remind us.

We walked on cheerily to the cottage and knocked whereupon the surprised lock-keeper rose from his table where he was feasting 'en famille' to grin and say 'but we are closed until after lunch!'

Lunchtime is still very important in France though the multinationals (and consumer demand) are eating away at it in the big towns. Not a snowball's chance in a fiery place of this lock opening in the next hour , so off we went to the village for a quick coffee. It was a rewarding walk past a 14th century Abbey which graced the water's edge. In the little restaurant Madame was appalled that we were not having a three course meal (futile to explain that we'd recently had a 'Great Western All You Can Keep Down and Still Walk'- type breakfast an hour or two before) and banished us to the outside chairs and tables where she grudgingly got us a couple of coffees.

Back we sloped to be greeted by the Lock-keeper wiping bits of wild boar from his cheerful countenance and the SIB couple having a post-picnic read in the sun.

Léhon Lock

photo : Paul


We got it at last. We weren't going to be able to charge through this bit of the journey (in the way that we imagined Pete, Martin and Anto were charging at that very moment towards Fareham). Distance means nothing on the river. And pace is calculated taking account of a range of variables including the day of the week, the time of the day (locks shut for lunch and by 7.00 ish in the evening), the things to see and do on the riverbank and whether the helmsman is in need of a sudden snooze in a watery lay-by. Our usual success criteria as ribsters needed to be chucked overboard as we settled into an entirely different boating experience.

Over the next few days, we were to gain enormous respect and liking for the friendly and helpful Lock-keepers and the wonderfully maintained cottages which were to be our new waypoints on this stage of the journey.

Onwards to Pont Perrin.

[Pete7]

Sunday 10 August 2005 - Guensey

Whilst Paul and Kathleen ventured deeper into the dark everglades of the River Rance on there journey south through the un-mapped and un-charted wilds of Brittany Anto, Martin and I relaxed in a B&B in Guernsey. After an afternoon snooze the 3 explorers now famished set about trying to find a restaurant in St Peters Port that would keep us in the style we had become accustomed too.
Martin had the inspired idea of seeking advice from the Royal Yacht Club and we finally tracked down a local cellar restaurant in a hotel, clearly known only to the locals for a slap up roast dinner A quick check on the boats and then off for an early night. We would sleep well after the voyage from St Malo

[Pete7]

Monday 8 August 2005 - Guernsey to Alderney

The final leg. With the previous days wind and rain gone, Monday dawned with clear skies and flat calm seas. Yippie A quick tour of St Peters Port for duty free proved fruitless as no one seemed to open much before 9am and concerned we might outstay our welcome and free moorings curtsey of the Harbour master we charged out of St Peters Port at 8.30 am. With a clam sea we quickly settled down to our cruising speed of 23 – 24 knots. The Alderney race was uneventful as ever and 90 minutes later we rounded Alderney and entered Bray Harbour mooring up against the ferry jetty. As we basked in sunshine enjoying our ice creams and coffee, duty frees ordered at short notice from the shop of the Quay arrived as promised. However as Alderney is outside the EEC we were restricted to 200 fags and a litre of spirits each.

With a prompt from the harbour master that they ferry was due shortly we departed Bray and set course for the Noodles 58 miles to the North. The channel was calm and empty and the trip across uneventful making for relaxed cruising compared to the previous days epic slog. Stopping for coffee mid channel the boats gently drifted together in the crystal clear water reminiscent of a scene from Jaws The only other vessels out there were the occasional ship going up and down the channel and a couple of yachts making a slow passage at 4 knots. Back on the move we found southern England covered in an autumn haze and the white cliffs of the Noodles didn’t appear until we were within 8 miles. Navigation was obviously GPS but cross checked with a fixed compass just to be sure.

[Pete7]

Rounding the Needles we called into Yarmouth to top up with cheap fuel only to find the RNLI filling up a 52 foot Arun class lifeboat, another wait for an hour. Both Remedy and Old Spice burning about 1.5 lpm for the trip across the channel. Strangely for a Monday lunchtime Yarmouth town quay was packed with ribs so we pushed on to Cowes only to find the Town Quay even worse, then the penny dropped, it was Cowes week and dozens of ribs acting as support boats had tied up at the Town. It was also interesting to see the 28 ft MCA Halmatic cabin ribs busy checking which vessels were coded for charter work, some which clearly were not. Giving up on Cowes which resembled the M25 in a rush hour we finally headed for home.

The GPS gave some interesting details of the trip. Total mileage for the 10 days (5 of cruising and 5 days sight seeing) was 380 miles and Old Spice’s top speed 28.1 knots. There were no significant problems with any of the ribs just a good clean required. A great holiday which I am sure all those involved will remember for a long time to come and a desire to do it all again next year.

By taking tents and a small amount of cooking and camping equipment meant that we had the flexibility to choose our next destination as we went along and when rather than having to rely on B&Bs were you have to travel to a fixed itinerary. We were unlucky with the weather catching a series of low pressure systems making for some memorable nights listening to the fog horn of Alderney every 30 seconds from 2am onwards, the Peacocks in Guernsey @ 4.30 am and the thunderstorms in St Malo. But sun during the day time soon dried us out and spirits quickly lifted.

Highlights of the trip? well pink champagne in Alderney to celebrate a few first times across, meeting up with Charles in a hot and sunny Jersey for coffee as he dashed between meetings. The superb friendly marina in St Malo and the steep climb up to the camp sight with grand views over the harbour, river Rance and outer islands. The superb sight of a modern Great Western hotel at Dinard just as the rain started to fall and we contemplated another session of putting up wet tents. The rough and long slog back to Guernsey from St Malo and then the bright sunshine the following day for the channel crossing and finally arriving home from the adventure.

Peter

[jwalker]

Cool.

[codprawn]

Great write up - will have to do another one before too long!!!!

[Jimbob]

Yes, i really enjoyed reading these, thanks for spending the time and doing this

[Pete7]

Thanx