SIB Expedition 2003 - Orkney

[Keith Hart]

Right folks, now THIS should whet your appetite for adventure:

The Pentland Firth

The Pentland Firth lies between the northern Scottish mainland and the islands of Orkney and has a well-deserved reputation among the world’s mariners as a channel to be navigated with great care. Twice every day the tide surges through the Firth from the Atlantic to the North Sea and back again, and currents can reach up to 12 knots. In the past many captains and shipowners preferred to make long detours north of Orkney or south by the English Channel to avoid the roosts and eddies in the Firth.

The Firth itself is not large - around 17 miles from Dunnett Head, which can serve as its westerly entrance, to the most easterly of the islets that make up the Pentland Skerries in the east. The gap between Caithness on the mainland and Orkney varies from 6 to 8 miles, and the islands of Stroma and Swona lie in the channel.

The dangers of the Firth have impressed writers for centuries. In 1380 John of Fordun wrote that Scotland was bounded on the north ‘by the Pentland Firth, where a fearfully dangerous whirlpool sucks in and belches back the waters every hour.’ The Phoenician explorer Pytheas sailed along the British coast in around 250 BC and mentioned a place called Orca where there were waves of immense size. A Roman fleet came this way in AD 84: it is recorded that they ‘subjugated’ (unlikely) the Orkney isles but it is not known how far they sailed. The Norse Sagas also mention the Firth and provide us with its first shipwreck records.

The Norse period left a lasting mark on the place-names and dialect of Orkney and Caithness. Some of the tidal features of the Firth have Norse names - the Swelkie (from svelgr, whirlpool), the Bores of Duncansby (from bara, wave) - and Norse legends account for the origins of some of them.

During the ebb tide, when the main current is flowing from east to west, a violent race develops in the western part of the Firth. This is called the Men of Mey and on occasion the waves can build up to tremendous heights and burst in white anger, even on a calm day.

The traditional fishing boats built around the Firth show in their lines their Norse origins. Called yawls or yoles, the boats are pointed stem and stern and have clinkered planking. In building, the planking was put in place first and then the shell was strengthened by ribs. The people used such yoles - from 15 feet to 24 feet in keel, with a wide beam - for fishing, transporting goods and animals, and for travel. In the 19th century, it was normal to cost a new boat at £1 per foot of keel. Yoles are rarely made now but many are still in use a hundred years after they were built.

Charts of the Pentland Firth were inaccurate and of little practical use to navigators until Murdoch Mackenzie, an Orkney schoolmaster and mathematician, carried out the first modern survey of the islands in the 1740s. His maps were published in 1750 and were bought by merchants all around the North Sea. Thirty copies were bought by the Hudson’s Bay Company as their ships, on the voyage to the Arctic from London, made Stromness their last stopping place. After Mackenzie’s work and the building of lighthouses - the lighthouse on the Skerries, erected in 1794, was the fifth modern lighthouse to be built in Scotland - encouraged more and more captains to venture through the Firth, a considerable shortening of the voyage to America from the east coast of Britain.

During the Napoelonic Wars the Royal Navy expanded considerably to meet the threat from the French and Spanish fleets. The Quota Acts passed by Parliament in 1795 required each county to furnish a certain number of recruits for the Navy but this was not enough to man all the frigates and ships of the line, and the press gang was active. Orkney has many stories of men dodging the press gang. The strategic position of Orkney, lying on the routes used by the Atlantic merchantmen and the Arctic whalers, meant that it was a fruitful recruiting ground for prime seamen.

Throughout this period privateers - raiders licensed to attack the shipping of the enemy - were also active. To protect the British trade with the Baltic, merchant vessels were required to adopt a convoy system. Longhope on the island of Hoy became the official assembly point for these convoys. Two Martello towers were built to guard the entrance to Longhope but by the time they were finished - in December 1814 - the immediate need for them had passed and they never fired a shot in anger. Now they make interesting tourist attractions.

A new lighthouse was built on Dunnet Head, the most northerly point of the Scottish mainland, in 1831. As the years went by more lighthouses were added to pinpoint other hazards in the area of the Firth - on Noss Head (1849), Cantick Head (1856), Holborn Head (1862), Stroma (1890), Duncansby Head (1924) and Strathy Point (1958). All these lighthouses are now automated.

New charts, new lighthouses and better technology led to merchant captains making greater use of the Firth as a shortcut from the North Sea to the Atlantic. This in turn led to many more accidents and to the growth of local pilotage. Fishermen, with their unparalleled knowledge of local waters, had always served as pilots for passing vessels but throughout the 1800s this activity reached a peak.

When a ship was in need of a pilot, she signalled on approaching the Firth. The main picking-up paces were off Noss Head and Freswick Bay on the east coast, and the area around Thurso on the west. Pilots also operated from Stroma and Swona and in fewer numbers from the Orkney side of the Firth. On the sighting of a potential client pilots took to the sea at once and rowed or sailed as fast as they could to reach her, as the first pilot to arrive normally got the job. After navigating the Firth, the pilot was normally put ashore to make his way home on foot or in his own boat which would have been towed behind the ship in the meantime.

It happened, however, that a ship could not or would not stop and several pilots found themselves borne away on an unforeseen voyage. James Miller of Nybster was taken to Ireland in this way. In 1869 James Mowat of Freswick ended up in Quebec. In 1891 David Banks of Stroma was taken to the Faroes. Another David Banks had perhaps the longest adventure of this sort - in the late 1830s or early 1840s, Banks was borne to America, where he signed on another ship for the homeward passage. However, this ship set out on a long detour via many South American ports and was almost lost in the Roaring Forties. Banks finally won home after he had been given up for lost by his relatives.

The number of pilots seems to have peaked in around 1850. Forty-one men gave their occupation as this in the 1851 census, but the number was always fluid as it was a part-time, ultimately spontaneous activity combined with crofting and fishing. Many pilots also lost their lives in accidents and bad weather. Pilotage in the Firth now is confined to the professionals who meet and guide supertankers into the oil terminal on the island of Flotta.

The increased use of the Firth also led to increased numbers of wrecks in its fierce turbulent waters and severe weather. The list of groundings and founderings in the Firth is very long. In the days of sail and before modern forecasting, a single gale could account for several vessels. Lifeboat stations and rocket companies, using rocket apparatus to fire lines to ships in distress, were established in various places around the Firth and these brave volunteers saved many lives over the years. Thurso had a lifeboat in 1860, Longhope in 1874, Ackergill and Huna in 1878.

The two World Wars (1914-18 and 1939-45) saw a great increase in shipping activity in the vicinity of the Firth, especially as the Royal Navy established its major base for the Home Fleets in Scapa Flow.

The Firth now is arguably a quieter place and seldom now does a full-rigged ship appear from the haze to navigate the gap. An echo of former times happened, however, in the summer of 1997 when the full-size replica of Captain James Cook’s ship, the Endeavour, sailed west through the Firth. The Firth is still a busy channel and much of the shipping between northern Europe and North America passes through it today, about 6,000 vessels of all types per year.

The sea is as tricky as ever and the saga of the Firth goes on.

Well my fellow expeditioneers, still interested. Sounds like a real challenge to me.

Keith (ooooooo 'errrrrr) Hart

[narked]

I've got pictures Keith, but only of me on land, would that count?

Matt (bored in an electronics lesson so reading the forums) Brown

[toby.budd]

Sounds good,

If i am back and around you can count me in Keith. (4.2m Gemini GRX)

Maybe RIB Int would be interested in covering the event. If we can get a range of SIBs, (may be Zodiac futuras, Avons, Zap cat, and other non rigid inflatables) it would provide a good back to back comparasion between the advantages and disadvantages of the differant craft.


Narked, If RIB Int were going to cover it you could probably, almost definatly get a manafacturer to supply you with a rig inc engine. EG Zodiac, Avon, maybe RIBeye.

Toby

[Keith Hart]

Maybe RIB Int would be interested in covering the event

Already in hand Toby.

Email me and I'll add you to the mailing list.

Keith (form a queue) Hart

[Keith Hart]

I've got pictures Keith, but only of me on land, would that count?

Matt until you get your SIB it will have to do.

Keith (is this a good idea) Hart

[Keith Hart]

Here is a picture of the harbour where we will launch into The Pentland Firth for the crossing:

Keith (windy) Hart

[Keith Hart]

here is the harbour on a better day:

Keith (what a big one you have) Hart

[Julian]

Sound like it could be a very interesting crossing Keith. Lets hope the weather is not like that photo.

He who dares

Julian

[Keith Hart]

Here is a picture of the Longhope Lifeboat memorial. The whole crew was lost. I believe that it after this in the early 60's that the self righting lofeboat was designed.

I have been to this memorial on several occasions. It is in South Walls on the island of Hoy. The stands in front of the plaques and the grave. The lifeboatman is looking out to sea where the lifeboat went down. The atmosphere in the graveyard is very strong. I would swear that I could feel the presence of those brave, brave men standing alongside the statue. It was very calm. I am not a person who is moved easily. I have encountered more death and destruction than most people, but I can tell you that standing there I had a lump in my throat and a tear in my eye.

I will think of those brave men when we do this expedition. I will dedicate my journey to them.

Keith Hart

[narked]

Alrighty then, here's the photo for the gallery until I get meself a boat! (Only picture I could find, and I was under the influence of obscene amounts of guinness at the time, not that I drink that is, I'm not old enough for that....)

Matt

[Keith Hart]

Oh my gawd....who invited him?

Speech( )less

[Keith Hart]

The Royal Oak

We will be passing right by the Royal Oak. Once again to whet your appetites and to encourage even more expiditioneers, here we have the story of The Royal Oak. BTW many of the crew were from Hilton of Cadboll (where my house in Scotland is). The relatives found out about this sinking via the BBC News. This caused an understandable uproar. It was after this that the MOD informed relative BEFORE releasing details of ships going down.


The Royal Oak is a war grave. The sinking of the Royal Oak during the early weeks of the Second World War was a national disaster. Although she was over 25 years old, the battleship was considered to be robust and strong enough to resist enemy attack. This faith proved to be unwarranted.

The Royal Oak was built at Devonport, Plymouth over 1914-1916. She was nearly 600 ft long with a maximum width of 100 ft. She was armed with eight 15 inch guns contained in 4 turrets, plus an assemblage of 6 inch, 3 inch guns and 4 torpedo tubes. The warship was well armoured with 13 inches of steel that extended 5 ft below her water line. She was capable of a 20 knot speed powered by 40000 HP oil fuelled engines. A crew of nearly 1100 men was needed to handle her. She saw action at the battle of Jutland.

On 13th October 1939 the large battleship was lying at anchor near the port of Scapa on the southward side of Kirkwall. She was acting as anti aircraft cover for the capital city. The night was cold and quiet. Under cover of darkness a German U boat made a daring entry into Scapa Flow through the narrow channel of Kirk Sound between two of the islands surrounding the Flow. Once inside the German commander surveyed the scene. He expected to find a number of British warships at anchor, but only the Royal Oak was left to defend the naval anchorage. So just after midnight, despite the blackout, the U boat located the great warship and prepared to launch a torpedo attack. Shortly before 1 am it launched the first of two salvoes. This scored a minor hit which did not unduly alert the crew of the Royal Oak. Twenty minutes later the second salvo arrived with devastating consequences. 3 direct hits sent the 600 ft battleship to the sea bed in just under 11 minutes. Over 800 men perished - some trapped within the boat, others simply drowning in the bitingly cold waters of the Flow. Thankfully, a small naval tender - the Daisy 2 - managed to save nearly 400 men.

The Navy reacted quickly. On 15th October nets were spread over the wreck to catch any floating bodies. Divers went down to inspect the wreck. Some ascended in horror at the sight of the suspended, drowned bodies that they encountered. Men were found jammed in the portholes as they tried in desperation to get out of the wreck. Oil slicks abounded. The wreck was quickly declared a war grave. It remains so to this day. No diving is allowed on this wreck unless with the express permission of the Royal Navy. Since the wreck is so near to the mainland, this prohibition is rigorously and effectively maintained. Nobody dives the Royal Oak except for an annual remembrance dive conducted by Navy divers.

The battleship lies in 30 metres on her port side at an angle of 45 degrees. Her hull is only 7 - 8 metres below the surface. Even to this day, a slow seepage of oil continues to escape the wreck. It is most poignant to approach the wreck marker buoy and see the oil globules breaking the water and watch the echo sounder. Her shape is clearly visible. Indeed it possible to see the hull as you pass over it.

Attached is a picture of the memorial buoy which is over the wreck.

Keith (come on, you know you want to come) Hart

[John Kennett]

Originally posted by Keith Hart
Okay, okay JK. But, do you have a SIB and are you coming to Orkney?

For the first time in years I have managed to become completely boatless. Sold the RIB and the SIB. Still, should have something or other by then so count me in!

John

[narked]

I don't normally look that daft Keith, I can assure you. My normal look is "big 'n scary", instead of "on a different planet".

As for these occasional posts about the area and history and so on, keep em comin', it's interesting to read about the area before we go up.

Matt (still can't wait!) Brown

[Keith Hart]

JK you're on the mailing list. Hey if the weather is bad you can part the waters for us! Ooooh, JK, you could come across in Quicksilver with me if you are boatless (he,he,he,he)

Okay Matt. The idea is to drum up support for the expedition.

Keith (bow and scrape) Hart

[DJL]

Keith, your making it sound so exciting that I might have to travel the 750miles to join you.

I'm not really sure what I will be doing in August, I'm in my year out before Uni, but boating up north sounds fun.

Be nice to get in a few dives too.

[Keith Hart]

Orkney Factiod
Just one factiod in a series designed to make you want to become an Orkney Expeditioneer

The Royal Oak.
Just take a look at this. When you check out the charts (bear in mind that this was before the Churchill Barriers were built), you will see just what an incredible feat of navigation and bravado Gunter Prien (Captain of the U47) and his crew did on that terrible night.

Keith Hart

[Keith Hart]

Orkney Factiod
Just one factiod in a series designed to make you want to become an Orkney Expeditioneer

17th October 1939, just days after The Royal Oak was sunk, Orkney was again in the firing line. Four Junkers JU88 bombers led by Kapitan Donch, took off from Sylt, bound for Orkney.

The orkney guns received a ‘Red Alert’ and at 10.20 hours the bombers were spotted by 226 Battery at Lyness. Two of the bombers dived and dropped bombs on the ‘Iron Duke’. All 8 guns of the battery let rip.

The fleet was not in the flow following the sinking of ‘The Royal Oak’.

One of the bombers appeared to stagger slightly, then a wing dropped steeply, and trailing black smoke, the bomber slowly, so it seemed, plunged earthwards and crashed into the banks of Pegal Burn (stream) on Hoy.

226 Battery had scored their first ‘kill’. The first enemy aircraft of WW2, shot down on British soil by an anti-aircraft battery. Another deathly first for Orkney.

Well folks, I have spoken to one of the gunners on 226 battery that night. I also have a small piece of the remains of that very JU88 bomber. It was dug out of the banks of Pegal Burn about 50 years after the war by that same gunner. It now adorns a polished wood stand in my house in Birmingham.

Just another interesting factiod in the series.

Keith (now you really want to come) Hart

[John Kennett]

Originally posted by Keith Hart
Ooooh, JK, you could come across in Quicksilver with me if you are boatless (he,he,he,he)

With the two of us on board I'm not sure that there would be room for the sarnies though. Perhaps we could get one of those beach-type VSIBS as a floating tuck trailer . . .

John (even taller than you) Kennett

[Keith Hart]

John (even taller than you) Kennett

Ahhhhhh, but are you wider?

With the two of us on board I'm not sure that there would be room for the sarnies though

Why do you think I'm getting some RIBs to come along?

Keith (this all sounds like great fun) Hart