Woodburner Glass Cleaner

[Mollers]

Top Tip.


Gone live with our woodburner for the first time this week.

I managed to muck the glass up quite badly through numptiness. It was a proving pain to clean off. Mrs M reminded that the Hetas installer recommended damp newspaper and ash from the ash pan.

Blimey! Works a treat.

[willk]

Figures. Wood ash and water = Lye*, a very caustic cleaner of yesteryear. I use a damp cloth with a squirt of kitchen degreaser, which is??? Caustic! If you work on warm glass, it's even faster. Quick polish with the Daily Mail and you're done!


*Mostly sodium hydroxide

[Mollers]

Originally Posted by willk

Quick polish with the Daily Mail and you're done!

Does it come in rag form?

West Briton for my buffin'.

[HUMBER P4VWL]

If you've a decent burner, open up the valves fully and ramp up the heat to maximum once a week or so and anything on the glass will burn off. I've had our clearview completely coated in thick black gue having had damp logs in overnight when we've shut the valves so it will start up again in the morning.

You shouldn't ever need to clean the glass..... unless you've a crap burner.

[bedajim]

Originally Posted by Mollers

Top Tip.


Gone live with our woodburner for the first time this week.

Feck me you'll be getting that new fangled electric stuff down there next

[Mollers]

Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL

our clearview

Bedajim said that Clearview woodburners were shite.

I splashed out at our local stove emporium Trago Mills on a top notch jobbie.

[willk]

Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL

unless you've a crap burner.

But the OP stated that he had a wood burner? Which is a wasted opportunity, IMO.

Dry animal dung fuel - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[Mollers]

Originally Posted by willk

But the OP stated that he had a wood burner? Which is a wasted opportunity, IMO.

Dry animal dung fuel - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

If you have no life, there are hours of fun to be had squashing and drying all sorts of 'crap' into burny bricks.

[willk]

However H-P did have a point about the "valves" (damper mechanisms). Burning damp wood or smokey fuels will soot up the glass. Even smokeless fuel like very dry wood or anthracite will do this if the dampers are kept closed for long periods. A good burn at a high temperature will burn a lot of the crap off, making a quick clean easier.

I'm without decent timber at the mo', so I'm firing the boiler in Chateau willk on lignite. I even get a bit of second hand heat from the ranting of the Ecowarriors at the gates ;-/

[Mollers]

Had Sycamore and pine split and stored for 4/5 years. It's going well.

The stove has primary and secondary controls. The secondary keeps the glass clean in theory. Getting the hang of it.

I'm hoping that the WB/AGA combined, pushed about by the MVHR will suffice and I'll not have to involve the fossil fuel devouring Worcester often.

[camelgas]

Originally Posted by Mollers

Had Sycamore and pine split and stored for 4/5 years. It's going well.

The stove has primary and secondary controls. The secondary keeps the glass clean in theory. Getting the hang of it.

I'm hoping that the WB/AGA combined, pushed about by the MVHR will suffice and I'll not have to involve the fossil fuel devouring Worcester often.

The Clearview and the Rayburn (when its lit, not cold enough yet !) with HRV works well in mine, oil as last resort also.
Beach,ash and oak best firewood IMHO. main thing is well seasoned and dry !.

[Bigmuz7]

Ive just installed a big Termatech TT22, and it really only gets mucky if the wood is too wet, or falls near the glass during a burn. A good hot burn with any wood, hard or soft sorts that out, failing which I use Mr Muscle oven cleaner. Not sure if its any good for the rope seal so I keep it off that, although they will need replaced periodically anyway, plus I'm not a fan of it near any finished metal surfaces, but its really fast.

Gas bills are well down this year, due to the stove and warmer backend

[A1an]

I've used the "ash" method for years BUT never use the ash if you have burnt coal/anthracite ect, its really scratches the glass

Like someone said, you should really need to clean it if it has a decent "airwash" system.

[Biggy]

Don't burn shite wood, then you won't get a build up of tar deposits on the glass, flue pipe or liner/chimney.
Softwood is generally full of sap, hard wood needs splitting and drying well.
I usually fell and chop up one year and burn the following year, but my wood is dried in my solar kiln then stored in garage or undercover wood store.
If your buying wood, kiln dried ash/oak works out very well in comparison to so called seasoned crap.
I generally never burn anything with a moisture content much over 20%

My burner has run for 3 years, never been swept. The liner is clean and un-obstructed.
Once a week I burn at around 550fah and it keeps everything clear.

[Trimix]

I use Vinegar, cheap as chips (ha ha), doesnt scratch the glass.

[Mollers]

Originally Posted by Bigmuz7

Ive just installed a big Termatech :

On Jimbo's recommend, I went for a Sunrain.

Great VFM, I'm very pleased with it, although it does appear to be warping a bit.

[Mollers]

Originally Posted by camelgas

The Clearview and the Rayburn (when its lit, not cold enough yet !) with HRV works well in mine,

Outside air source?

[Biggy]

What HRV system are you using?
Is it a full system utilising shower room/kitchen & wood burner?

[Mollers]

Originally Posted by Biggy

What HRV system are you using?
Is it a full system utilising shower room/kitchen & wood burner?

Mitsubishi Lossnay.

Theoretically, MVHR should only exhaust from 'hot' rooms and loos.

Our's takes from Living room (woodburner location) Kitchen, cooker hood, loo and bathrooms.

[Biggy]

I'm in mid install with mine. I recon the ch boiler will become pretty much redundant when I've completed the install.
Mine will pull from the contura 51 (Woodburner)
cooker hood & bathroom.
Alleged upto 93% efficiency, hopefully it'll be the bees knees!!