Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 07 September 2010, 10:51   #1
Member
 
Waterman's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Boat name: Joy Ride
Make: Ribtec655CamelTrophy
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 optimax
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 208
200hp Optimax PTT Removal

Hey All,
I have a leaking PTT on my 200 Opti. I have traced the leak to the o rings on the lower swivel pin and need to peplace them



The service manual says to remove the starboard side outboard to transom bolts and remove the thru tilt tube steering components.
After removing the steering and loosening the retaining nut will the bracket just slide over enough to allow me to drop the PTT unit?? or im i better off removing the engine from the transom??



Im worried about the weight all being put on the port bracket??
__________________
Waterman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07 September 2010, 15:24   #2
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
Judging by that exploded picture, you should only need to loosen the tilt tube nut so it "lets go". Then you could probably get away with just loosening the transom - clamp bolts as well.

I think your main problem will be if there are locking / aligning features on he side of the PT or any of the PT to clamp bolts shear so it doesn't just drop out.


Just remember to support the engine leg when removing pins/ bolts etc from the PT ram!


Next silly Q - does item 22 also double as the manual release valve? if so, you might get away with motoring it to line up with a clear hole in the clamp, then propping the engine leg & unscrewing it to remove?
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07 September 2010, 15:41   #3
Member
 
Waterman's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Boat name: Joy Ride
Make: Ribtec655CamelTrophy
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 optimax
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 208
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post
Judging by that exploded picture, you should only need to loosen the tilt tube nut so it "lets go". Then you could probably get away with just loosening the transom - clamp bolts as well.

I think your main problem will be if there are locking / aligning features on he side of the PT or any of the PT to clamp bolts shear so it doesn't just drop out.


Just remember to support the engine leg when removing pins/ bolts etc from the PT ram!


Next silly Q - does item 22 also double as the manual release valve? if so, you might get away with motoring it to line up with a clear hole in the clamp, then propping the engine leg & unscrewing it to remove?
No item 12 is the manual relief valve.
Ive had the entire PPT unit removed with no problem. Its the moving of the starboard bracket over that I am having an issue with. I dont think by just loosening the tilt tube nut I will have enough space for the PTT unit to drop down (it sits pretty snug between the port and starboard brackets) and Im worried if I move the bracket too far over the weight on the port side will be too great???

Would "taking the weight" off the transom by securing the engine (powerhead) from above using a lift be an option? I Dont want to derig the outboard.
__________________
Waterman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07 September 2010, 16:08   #4
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
If it;s anything like the one I took to bits under my old Yam, once the three bolts per side are out, there's not a lot holding it in....... Granted you have about 150 more HP to deal with , so there may be some locating features not included on the smaller units.

No reason why supporting couldn't work. I'm sure my Clymer suggests that for certain jobs anyway. Assuming both the clamps are sat on the top of the transom, shifting one a few mm to the left will be no worse than the pounding it sees when in motion. There will likely be enough movement in the bolts holding it onto the transom (once loosened!) to not even need to unbolt it.

Assuming of course it's a flat, machined surface 'tween clamp & PT as mine was.....
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07 September 2010, 16:17   #5
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: bicester
Length: no boat
Engine: outboard only
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 913
i have a suggestion for you, ring me tommorrow and i will talk you through the job
01869 326411
__________________
uncle al is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 February 2012, 15:31   #6
Member
 
Waterman's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Boat name: Joy Ride
Make: Ribtec655CamelTrophy
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 optimax
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 208
I forgot to update this thread after I completed the job in 2010.

As usual I planned to photograph the job and post it here for others, but as usual got carried away with the task at hand and didnt bother taking the camera out of the case!
The job was fairly straight forward (No disconnecting of steering or electrics) and the new O rings held up well.
That is until now!
The leak has returned and I plan on doing it again shortly.
I didnt bother buying a mercury PTT seal kit (£100 +) and just purchased some suitable, replacement ones locally (Less than €5).
Im sure the ones I got last time were for high pressure hydraulic applications and I am wondering how they failed so quickly?
Possibly from freezing and thawing repeatedly??

Does anybody know if there is a service life for PTT seals??

The new ones ordered are definitely fit for purpose so will update this thread, hopefully with pics this time, when finished.
__________________
Waterman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 February 2012, 17:19   #7
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
From what I understand, hydraulic seals generally fail when subjected to abrasion from foreign material or wear on the ram. I suspect the service life of new seals would get shorter with time and use vs. new. Next time around, make a close inspection of the ram and make sure it isn't scratched or pitted.

Not that my limited experience with hydraulic seals supports that, just hypothesising.

jky
__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 09:20.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.