2018 Tohatsu 9.8 2T on Ebay

[willk]

Originally Posted by Steve509926

,,,sounds like an old episode of Brookside!

My work here is Done

[Fenlander]

>>anyone a bit savy with a "newer" 9.8, would be advised to paint the prop white.

Well err yes unless it just looked like a hookey mota with a new Polastorm.

[Steve509926]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

>>anyone a bit savy with a "newer" 9.8, would be advised to paint the prop white.

Well err yes unless it just looked like a hookey mota with a new Polastorm.

Point taken

[Fenlander]

I am a bit of a prop repaint guy... but you have to be really careful of the paint type and application attention to detail or the oil that comes out of the exhaust on a 2T will start to lift it. Poundshop white/black doesn't seem good enough.

[Steve509926]

A neighbour owns a alloy wheel refurbishing business. I have thought about having a prop which has damaged and badly chipped paintwork (yes I did hit it on some rocks!) powder coated. It is quite a thick application though, and I wonder if it would change the prop performance in any way?

[Nasher]

Powdercoating a prop is an interesting topic, and one I'm happy to bore people with.

I get involved in powdercoating a lot at work, and can confirm that in a lot of cases the surface is more slippery(coefficient of friction) than wet paint, but of course it depends on the surface preparation and application of both.

I had the same thought as you @10yrs ago but ended up not going forward with it for a couple of reasons.

Firstly Powdercoat is even less willing than wet paint in some cases to build up properly or stick to a sharp edge.
Depending on the current applied during spraying, and temperature it's cured at, you can achieve either a small build up like a very small beaded edge along the blade edge, or the opposite with the powder drawn back from the edge.

My main reason for not going ahead though was the repair of any damage.
If the wet paint on a blade edge gets damaged or chipped and you are sufficiently annoyed by it to want to refinish it, it's easy to rub down the paint, feather it out, then re-paint.
You can't do that easily with powdercoat.

If you do get it done I'd be really interested to see the blade edges after a few hours of running with a bit of cavitation along the blade edge.
I maintain the powder will be worn away gradually like rubbing it with abrasive, providing a nice smooth surface, whereas a powdercoater I deal with insisted at the time it would chip away in lumps and cause more cavitation.

I think I might get a spare prop done just to try it.

[Steve509926]

Hi Nasher , I have just spoken to Paul, my powder coating neighbour. He is of the opinion that to get a decent coverage on the blade edge, the thickness over the rest of the prop would be significant. He also has said the powder coating on the blade edge may chip away quite easily if slightly knocked. Basically in his opinion, he wouldn't bother.
Oh well, it was a thought.

[Fenlander]

I'm no pro but done loads of spraying of different types over the decades inc a whole vintage Landy in green cans and it looked fine.

My exhaustive research (i.e. what I had to hand on the garage shelf) indicates for my old props...

Brush on paint is too thick, soft, easily chipped and slow to dry.

Appliance white as sold in B&Q blisters and dissolves in the presence of 2-stroke exhaust, Poundland sprays nearly as bad but Halfords own brand car colours seem to go on well, harden OK and resist 2-stroke exhaust well.

[Steve509926]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Halfords own brand car colours seem to go on well, harden OK and resist 2-stroke exhaust well.

Good to know