8 weeks, 5NM 900 road miles and and £800 later.....

[jeffstevens763@g]

i see the logic in that Dave but how long would that vacuum last with the system designed to hold liquid if run dry. not so when full of fuel as you know you can pressure up with the bulb and have to do it again if left for a while i'm not sure how long the high pressure side will hold though.my problem is i done nothing different with this engine than ive done with others fueling up i dont decant if its wet i have a spare tank thats just connect the lead so where does water come from. i do know the amount of water was minute in terms of volume but enough for the sensors to pick it up.
is the air that replaces the fuel in the tank at sea so heavily laden with moisture it causes condensation and builds up over time?
also seawater stays in situ for longer than fresh due to its specific gravity i tried to get a reading off the sample he gave me but i couldnt separate it from the fuel with a pipette

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

I’m surmising here, but modern engines are sealed systems, so if the system is left full of petrol, nothing else can get in. If, however, you run the sealed system dry, then you create a vacuum in the system. Presumably the vacuum will try & equalise & suck in air/moisture, whatever from where it can. It’s not like a carbed system where the petrol would evaporate & leave gum in the carb. The petrol in a modern system is well, err “sealed”[emoji1745]*[emoji3603]
Once it’s been sucked up from the tank & into the system, it’s no longer exposed to airborne moisture. So leaving that in the (sealed) system for long periods should actually be a good thing?

My theory is the water isnt absorbed during storage, the water droplets are trapped by the filter during use and are sat there waiting to turn fuel to gel, the same yellowy gel lumps you find in carb bowls. Which then block the filters causing havoc.

[treerat]

Originally Posted by lakelandterrier

Now all I need is a decent day, the right tides, and the time to get her relaunched, tested & fully set for the rest of the summer

Just in time for the 4 rivers on Saturday then

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by beamishken

My theory is the water isnt absorbed during storage, the water droplets are trapped by the filter during use and are sat there waiting to turn fuel to gel, the same yellowy gel lumps you find in carb bowls. Which then block the filters causing havoc.

Which brings us back to having (and maintaining) good quality filtration/water separation before the engine. I’ve always had Parker/Racor filters on my boats. I put them as close to the tank outlet as possible, preferably in the console where they are protected from the elements. I’ve literally just swapped the element on BP this last week, it was “interesting” to see how much crap was in it & it’s only 40 hours since the last change. Previously, when I’ve had the engine serviced, the engineer has commented on the cleanliness of the on engine filter.
On another note, the whole Premium Fuel debate amuses me. Ethanol is used as an additive to increase Octane ratings. So paying extra for “premium fuel” gets you a higher percentage of cheap bio-ethanol..talk about marketing [emoji849]

[Nasher]

Sorry to see you're having troubles mate.

Nasher.

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Which brings us back to having (and maintaining) good quality filtration/water separation before the engine. I’ve always had Parker/Racor filters on my boats. I put them as close to the tank outlet as possible, preferably in the console where they are protected from the elements. I’ve literally just swapped the element on BP this last week, it was “interesting” to see how much crap was in it & it’s only 40 hours since the last change. Previously, when I’ve had the engine serviced, the engineer has commented on the cleanliness of the on engine filter.
On another note, the whole Premium Fuel debate amuses me. Ethanol is used as an additive to increase Octane ratings. So paying extra for “premium fuel” gets you a higher percentage of cheap bio-ethanol..talk about marketing [emoji849]

BP ultimate is ethanol free according to the specs, interesting that 0.5% of dissolved water in fuel to start with and it mentions the use of additives to do the same if you have water contamination. also mentions water filters at garages not being maintained. i'm going to stick with fuel set each fill at £10 for 4000 ltrs worth it. i know i'm paranoid but better that than my aris going sixpence half a crown half way around Mull


https://www.bellperformance.com/blog...0fuel%20system.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

BP ultimate is ethanol free according to the specs, interesting that 0.5% of dissolved water in fuel to start with and it mentions the use of additives to do the same if you have water contamination. also mentions water filters at garages not being maintained. i'm going to stick with fuel set each fill at £10 for 4000 ltrs worth it. i know i'm paranoid but better that than my aris going sixpence half a crown half way around Mull





https://www.bellperformance.com/blog...0fuel%20system.

Interesting, I contacted Shell when their Vpower petrol was launched. They sent me the spec sheets for their ordinary unleaded & the boy racer/sales rep flavour. The ordinary unleaded was quoted as having 3-5% ethanol & the Vpower was “up to 10%”. I think I posted it on here somewhere. I’ll see if I can dig it out. Saying that, things have probably moved on since then.

[jeffstevens763@g]

not sure i posted the BP spreadsheet it was colin at ardoran who mentioned it the only garage in oban who sell ethanol free is dunstaffnage garage so i did some research when i got home that was prior to getting the engine sorted. same with the aspen fuel he mentioned seems lawnmower people advocate using it for the reasons of bad fuel after winter so ive stuck it in my auxilly engine so i dont have to worry for 5 years saying with eyes watering at £20 a gallon

found this apparently BP is ethanol free but not in devon and cornwall esso same but not in scotland and teesside for info
https://www.esso.co.uk/en-gb/fuels-faqs

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Which brings us back to having (and maintaining) good quality filtration/water separation before the engine. I’ve always had Parker/Racor filters on my boats. I put them as close to the tank outlet as possible, preferably in the console where they are protected from the elements. I’ve literally just swapped the element on BP this last week, it was “interesting” to see how much crap was in it & it’s only 40 hours since the last change. Previously, when I’ve had the engine serviced, the engineer has commented on the cleanliness of the on engine filter.
On another note, the whole Premium Fuel debate amuses me. Ethanol is used as an additive to increase Octane ratings. So paying extra for “premium fuel” gets you a higher percentage of cheap bio-ethanol..talk about marketing [emoji849]

Yeh I totally agree good filtration and check or change the hp filter annually would be my my way forward. I totally agree about the crap fuel myth. Garages were saying dont buy cheap supermarket fuel almost 40 years ago when I started in the motor trade. It was a good way to get rid of a customer who was asking why they couldnt fix their poor running car. Folk also got blocked carbs on their more tolerant old two strokes back then. Biggest urban myth on the planet imho