Go Back   RIBnet Forums > RIB talk > Engines & props
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 20 May 2014, 20:52   #1
Member
 
bingosucks's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Nuneaton
Boat name: ribbit
Make: ring
Length: 6m +
Engine: opti 150
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 557
88ish yam 50 2s autolube starting problems

having problems with my serviced yam so plugs are new etc

it starts no problem lasts bang on 30 seconds then dies carbs are clean and set correctly
now i`m thinking this could be a sticking overchoke issue as it has ran like a badger on the m5 then planed great 5 minutes later. it is currently set in badger mode!
i actually broke down in the southampton shipping lane but teased the engine back into port at about 2 kts using an excessive amount of fuel which stunk of petrol
on googling i have found that a choke solenoid could be to fault, i wonder what the forum views are
__________________
bingosucks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20 May 2014, 22:37   #2
Member
 
samt's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Midlands
Boat name: SR4.7
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 EFI
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,106
RIBase
To follow up what Richard has said, the engine has been fully serviced, carb cleaned, new fuel filters plugs etc. Ignition and timing all correct. New fuel line, fuel pump working fine.

Engine will start and run okay, if i set the mixture screws +1 turn from factory settings. But this is not satisfactory. Initially this issue was put down to worn mixture screws.

But at the settings in the book it runs for pretty much exactly 30 seconds and cuts out... I believe this is how much fuel the enrichment valve lets in when started. There is no choke solenoid as such. Due to the excessive fuel consumption at such a low speed I am thinking this valve stuck open when the problem occurred in the solent.. This fuel passage is essentially open to pressurised fuel from the fuel pump and feeds directly into the intake manifold.

Ribteccie had almost the same problem, and after a lot of investigation found a tiny o-ring on the enrichment valve to be at fault. So once i've got spare time to look at the carbs again, we are hoping for a similar simple result.

Unfortunately the history of the engine is unknown and some of the previous owners work is eye watering! Richard is on a tight budget so if anyone has any other idea's then it will be appreciated as it will keep my workshop time down to a minimum.
__________________
samt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20 May 2014, 23:20   #3
Member
 
bingosucks's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Nuneaton
Boat name: ribbit
Make: ring
Length: 6m +
Engine: opti 150
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 557
yep i am on a tight budget some of us are leaders of industry whilst others are site chippys with 2.4 children , but anyone who has seen my kids on the water will tell you this inner city kids heart is coastal
any help or suggestions kindly taken on board ,sam is a more than capable engineer with a heart of gold who unfortunately has a boss who likes to charge me for the privelege of fixing me boat !
__________________
bingosucks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 May 2014, 16:20   #4
Member
 
bingosucks's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Nuneaton
Boat name: ribbit
Make: ring
Length: 6m +
Engine: opti 150
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 557
bump for the weekend
__________________
bingosucks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 May 2014, 20:30   #5
Member
 
RIB-Teccie's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Leeds
Make: Valiant 450
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 55HP
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 448
Did you have the carbs off?? There are two o rings which seal the auto choke to the carb body and if one drops off when you take the choke body off it sucks air and does exactly what you say. I spent ages and even stripped one down before I found it. Luckily the engine needed it. If your stuck PM me.

The 30 second thing is a red herring, they are auto choke and give 30 secs at 1100rpm then drop to 750 at idle. Trouble is a slight fault will drop it too low to keep running.

Use a spark checker when running the engine, if it sparks on all 3, do not suspect the electrics.

The only thing left will be the fuel pump.
__________________
RIB-Teccie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 May 2014, 20:32   #6
Member
 
RIB-Teccie's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Leeds
Make: Valiant 450
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 55HP
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 448
Ha ha, just re read the forum. Someone beat me to it. PM me, I'll get it running.
__________________
RIB-Teccie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 May 2014, 20:59   #7
Member
 
RIB-Teccie's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Leeds
Make: Valiant 450
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 55HP
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 448
Lots of fuel use could be fuel pump diaphragm. This would do the same.
__________________
RIB-Teccie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24 May 2014, 10:17   #8
Member
 
samt's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Midlands
Boat name: SR4.7
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Mariner 60 EFI
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,106
RIBase
Small update,

In order to eliminate anything else, i've swapped for another set of carbs off a manual start motor. The engine runs perfectly.

I've had the carbs apart twice. They are clean, and set up properly. I've had the primer apart, all o-rings are in place.

The prime start solenoid clicks if it's attached to the carb, but doesn't click if its loose and plugged into the blue wire and earthed?.. Going to replace the o-rings with new ones.
__________________
samt is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 15:09.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.