Adding controls to Mariner 40hp

[Jack09]

Hi,

I have a Mariner 40hp pull start on my 4m searider.

Over the coming winter I'm looking to install steering and throttle controls to a centr console which I've already bought.

Steering is straight forward enough, but I wanted advice with regards to the throttle cables.

What happens to the tiller arm once the cables are fitted. Do I just remove it or does it stay on the outboard and left alone?

Also, I don't want to really spend the money converting outboard to electric start, so am I right in thinking I will probably need 2 people to start it up? One pulling started chord and one adjusting throttle?
Not an issue as I'm never on my own anyway

My outboard tends to like quite a lot of throttle to start and can take a few attempts to find that sweet spot!

Many thanks

Jack

[TmMorris]

Set the throttle, pull to start then just adjust the throttle. Just channel your inner 80s nature before people got too fat/slow/lazy

Normal practice was to remove the tiller as it just tends to be in the way whether up or down or when manhandling the engine.

[Jack09]

Thanks for advice. I'm quite new to it so I am still finding our where the best position of throttle is when starting up. Doesn't always work on 'start'.

I'm afraid I was too young in the 80's hence why my knowledge is limited. Although, I'm not quite the generation that's had it too easy!
��
Im sure I'll always find a way.

Thanks again

[TmMorris]

Yup, the 'start' position isn't always the easiest position to use. Half throttle, a bit of choke, pull then poke the choke in and as the engine starts to make a lot of noise just lean over to the lever and pull it back. It tends to actually be an easier way to start if your tiller has a spring return on the throttle.

[Jack09]

I wish I'd spoken to you a couple of months ago!

That's exactly how I start it now, after quite a lot of trial and error.

Runs fast initially due to the half throttle then I slow it down to tick over. Once it's been knocked off for a while when out on the water it only takes half a pull with no throttle.

Learning all the time.

Thanks again.

[Jack09]

Originally Posted by TmMorris

Yup, the 'start' position isn't always the easiest position to use. Half throttle, a bit of choke, pull then poke the choke in and as the engine starts to make a lot of noise just lean over to the lever and pull it back. It tends to actually be an easier way to start if your tiller has a spring return on the throttle.

Sorry, knew I forgot to ask I original post.

When new controls are added, is there a way to extend the kill switch to the control box?

I'm thinking could I just remove the existing/buy new switch and simply run the 2 cables to the box and reconnect?

Obviously I'll need to have the kill chord near me at the console.

Thanks

[Poly]

Originally Posted by Jack09

Sorry, knew I forgot to ask I original post.

When new controls are added, is there a way to extend the kill switch to the control box?

I'm thinking could I just remove the existing/buy new switch and simply run the 2 cables to the box and reconnect?

Obviously I'll need to have the kill chord near me at the console.

Thanks

Yes it is essentially as simple as that. The switch will be close to kill - so you can actually run another switch in parallel to the first and just leave the old one in place (with a clip on it to keep it open) - if either clip is pulled engine stops.

[daijinks]

Hi, I have a similar idea. I want to be able to connect an extention cable kill switch to the portable fold away steering control console up front on a sib but also retain the existing run/stop kill switch at the engine.
Where and a what point do I attach the remote kill switch cables to the engine kill switch cables?
I want to be able to disconnect the remote box kill cables for packing away for time to time. ( just like linking on and off the throttle and gear cable remotes.).☆

[paintman]

As Poly says.

Join the wires to the new switch into the existing switch wires where ever is easiest for you & with regard to keeping them dry.(Not with scotchloks!)

You could consider using one of the waterproof type such as Tyco to make connecting/disconnecting the extension easier: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231993136001
(They're also available pre-wired so you'd just need to connect their tails to your wiring.)