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29 March 2009, 20:54
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: PORTSMOUTH
Make: Avon 5.4, Avon 3.4,
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90, Merc 30
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,996
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anyone know How I can get this out?
left over peice of teleflex steering cable stuck
I've gone the big hammer route, had it soaking in petrol and left for 1 week with oil, still cant budge it out of the steering tube
any one got any secret tips they might want to share please?! thanks
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29 March 2009, 20:58
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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Been serious my mate had the same problem and said he'd done the big hammer route.
I took it to work got one of the lads to hold it on not in the vice whilst I stood on the bench and laced fuck out of it.
It did come out in the end cleaned up nicely and was like new in the end. It did take some doing though.
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29 March 2009, 21:10
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#3
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,924
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Olly
Try heating the tube up with a blowlamp and then put just the bit of steering cable in cold water to try releasing the bond before wacking it again.
You may need to do it several times.
If you've no luck by Wednesday evening bring it up my workshop and we'll have a go.
I can stick it in my lathe and drill it out.
Nasher.
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29 March 2009, 21:20
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher
Olly
Try heating the tube up with a blowlamp and then put just the bit of steering cable in cold water to try releasing the bond before wacking it again.
You may need to do it several times.
If you've no luck by Wednesday evening bring it up my workshop and we'll have a go.
I can stick it in my lathe and drill it out.
Nasher.
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Never seen a mugshot of you nasher but I'm building up a picture in me head of something along the line of new yankee workshop
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Sorry Olly carry on
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29 March 2009, 21:23
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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I can feel a rogues gallery coming on....
But yeh heat is good!
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29 March 2009, 23:34
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#6
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP
Never seen a mugshot of you nasher but I'm building up a picture in me head of something along the line of new yankee workshop
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So, what sort of Mig wire and Gas do you use to weld that stuff he's using, what was it, Wood or something?
Oh, and what will my best mate Mr Angle Grinder think of it?
Nasher.
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29 March 2009, 23:41
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: I.O.W/Switzerland
Boat name: HotShot
Make: shakey
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp Tohatsu TLDI
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,559
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olly, diesel is a better penetrator than petrol apparently so maybe try that?
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30 March 2009, 00:06
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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The DHD method:
1. Leave tilt tube in motor and leave motor on boat.
2. Remove (neglected) grease nipples and squirt some plus-gas (penetrating oil) in through the holes. Leave it do its stuff overnight.
3. Disconnect the steering drag link arm.
4. Put a steel bar into the hole in the end of the steering rod and try to twist the rod in the tilt tube to free it off.
5. Get someone to apply a bit of pressure on the helm (to port)
6. Big hammer time - tap the end of the steering rod into the tilt tube.
7. If/when it starts to move, try twisting it again to free it off. Reverse pressure on helm to starboard and use same hammer to tap the steel bar in the end of the steering rod to move it in the opposite direction.
8. Repeat steps 4-7 until the rod starts to free off and move relatively easily.
9. Once the rod passes the point of no return in the tilt tube, big hammer is your friend. Undo the nut on the steering cable and use a long drift inside the tilt tube. Your pal on the helm can put the kettle on at this point as his role has now become redundant.
10. If unsuccesful, buy a new tilt tube - not as expensive as you may have first thought.
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30 March 2009, 15:06
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: PORTSMOUTH
Make: Avon 5.4, Avon 3.4,
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90, Merc 30
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,996
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thanks all for your pointers guys, I'll give the heat trick a go - I really have been wellying the crap out of it and am just smashing the end up -
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30 March 2009, 15:49
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher
So, what sort of Mig wire and Gas do you use to weld that stuff he's using, what was it, Wood or something?
Oh, and what will my best mate Mr Angle Grinder think of it?
Nasher.
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You could be the fire starter with Mr Grinder. What I was meaning though is you sound like you've got every mans dream, a workshop and a tool for every job
Olly, good luck with it
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31 March 2009, 21:29
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hedge End
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 34
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I agree with the heat, blow torch is good.
Once you get it out, its pretty likely that the tilt tube is bent. If the teleflex part doesnt run freely through when greased, you need the new tube to make your days on the water less of a drag.
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31 March 2009, 21:50
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#12
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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I'd just buy a new tilt tube seeing as you've managed to remove the old one. It'll make it a far easier job and you're less likely to burn yourself or hit your fingers.
It'll be a shed load easier to fit a new steering cable to a new tilt tube as well .You won't be trying to get it in through a load of rust.
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02 April 2009, 11:34
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: PORTSMOUTH
Make: Avon 5.4, Avon 3.4,
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90, Merc 30
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,996
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thanks all for your replies, I'm managed to get it a bit further out - gave it some almighty wallops - heat, cool down (thanks simon) - getting a bigger hammer (sledge) - its that doesnt do it then I'm getting a price from fairweatherine marine for a new one, I've cut myself, weakened my wrist (no JOKES! ) by hammering the sh*t out of it, I think my prides got in the way a bit, so NEARLY THERE!!!
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14 April 2009, 11:05
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: PORTSMOUTH
Make: Avon 5.4, Avon 3.4,
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 90, Merc 30
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,996
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done it!!! woo hoo!! £94 saved! cleaned up and reinstalled - it was worth the claret!!
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15 April 2009, 10:29
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ollyit
done it!!! woo hoo!! £94 saved! cleaned up and reinstalled - it was worth the claret!!
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Good stuff mate
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15 April 2009, 21:39
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#16
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Nice one!
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