Avon Searider 5.4

[nick.hooper]

What is the best size 4 stroke outboard for an old Avon Searider 5.4, cheers Nick

[Swifty]

Biggest you can afford.

Check the builders plate, it should specify a max HP and weight, it's on the inside of the transom.
My 5.4 is plated at 90HP but Yamaha only made an 80 or 100 in 4 stroke. It's quite heavy so previous owner blocked off the flooding hull as it had very little freeboard at rest.

[nick.hooper]

Thanks for that info my 5.4 is rated at 90hp max, what size outboard did you end up with.

[Unknown]

It’s the weight you need to be careful of. I believe 4 strokes are heavier motors. Max transom weight is usually 155kg on the 5.4s so make sure that whatever you choose doesn’t go over this and also check the condition of your transom. If it’s not that good, don’t go near this weight at all.

[Maximus]

Originally Posted by Unknown

It’s the weight you need to be careful of. I believe 4 strokes are heavier motors. Max transom weight is usually 155kg on the 5.4s so make sure that whatever you choose doesn’t go over this and also check the condition of your transom. If it’s not that good, don’t go near this weight at all.

All good advice
If you can find a decent (condition) 5.4 AND THE SAME in a Yam 80 or 90 2strk you'll have the best PROVEN fit for this Hull (performance wise) by a long chalk.....the Tohatsu's works pretty well too!
Good luck whatever you decide.

[GuyC]

https://www.rib.net/forum/f27/out-of...tml#post814522

[nick.hooper]

Wow, thanks guys some fantastic information on Avon 5.4 etc, it will help me no end in finding a replacement engine for my rib. Cheers Nick.

[nick.hooper]

If anyone hears of a good Yamaha 75hp ish 2 stroke please let me know.

Nick.

[Highland Haggis]

Yam power in Glasgow had one give Phil a ring

[nick.hooper]

Cheers HH. Will do. Nick

[Ribtecer]

Originally Posted by nick.hooper

If anyone hears of a good Yamaha 75hp ish 2 stroke please let me know.

Nick.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Outboard-...edirect=mobile

Be quick

[69cmw]

Originally Posted by Ribtecer

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Outboard-...edirect=mobile



Be quick

That engine has been dicked about with.

[phantom 19]

Originally Posted by 69cmw

That engine has been dicked about with.

Normal RNLI modifications.

[Ribtecer]

Originally Posted by 69cmw

That engine has been dicked about with.

Beggars can't be choosers my friend, and I didn't say buy it.

I thought it nice to make him aware of it, the rest is his decision

[xpertski]

Looked a good engine to me, I like Yam two stroke engines, lots of grunt, low weight.

[nick.hooper]

Hi Guy's

Thanks for all your comments for and against this great looking Yamaha 75/90hp, it's really good that other rib lovers bother to try and help me with this problem and at 74 a good reliable engine is a must but it's just too much money for me, I live in Ryde IOW and Jim at Bembridge Marine will be fitting the engine when I can find one, Thanks again Nick

[phantom 19]

75/80/85/90 were great engines but be warned they seem to attract the home diy outboard enthusiast looking to make a few quid buying a junk one and selling on to unsuspecting buyer.

Pre 96 gearbox casting splits, often full of filler to hide. Casting improved after 96 to prevent this.
Pre 93 trim tilt motors rot worse than the later ones and if replaced with pattern part the relays are a cobble up.
Trim and tilt seals expensive to replace properly. Often the trim seal carriers will need to be replaced too as removal even with the genuine Yamaha tool can result in damage. If you are paying a dealer it can be expensive.
Cranks on abused ones can suffer - I once stripped five of these engines down and only one crank was anything like useable.
Gearshift rod will be most likely rotten on pre 96(ish) requiring powerhead removal and potential of broken bolts as the mounting bolts are rolled thread creating a void for corrosion to jam the bolts solid.
Pre 96 had mild steel painted steering tubes and tilt stops which rusted away. They changed to a much higher grade of steel (not stainless) after then.
Bent propshafts are common.
Gearbox rebuilds without the correct tools is also common.
Beware old engines with a new grey paint job and new stickers. Gearbox casing is a good indicator of age that stickers can’t hide.
Blue engines are at least 26 years old now, and some could be 40 years old plus!
These engines were sold as manual tilt as well as power tilt - beware!
The 75C/90 went over to automatic choke with associated pipework and complications 93/94ish, along with all new electrics, although seems to have fared much better than the earlier 40/50hp automatic choke systems. The 75A/85A kept their original no nonsense round bowl carbs with manual choke.

I would be looking for a 00s onwards engine as most of the faults were ironed out then. If you can cope with premixing the fuel, a late model commercial 75A/85A (origin) model would be a good bet.

[Ribtecer]

Originally Posted by phantom 19

75/80/85/90 were great engines but be warned they seem to attract the home diy outboard enthusiast looking to make a few quid buying a junk one and selling on to unsuspecting buyer.

Pre 96 gearbox casting splits, often full of filler to hide. Casting improved after 96 to prevent this.
Pre 93 trim tilt motors rot worse than the later ones and if replaced with pattern part the relays are a cobble up.
Trim and tilt seals expensive to replace properly. Often the trim seal carriers will need to be replaced too as removal even with the genuine Yamaha tool can result in damage. If you are paying a dealer it can be expensive.
Cranks on abused ones can suffer - I once stripped five of these engines down and only one crank was anything like useable.
Gearshift rod will be most likely rotten on pre 96(ish) requiring powerhead removal and potential of broken bolts as the mounting bolts are rolled thread creating a void for corrosion to jam the bolts solid.
Pre 96 had mild steel painted steering tubes and tilt stops which rusted away. They changed to a much higher grade of steel (not stainless) after then.
Bent propshafts are common.
Gearbox rebuilds without the correct tools is also common.
Beware old engines with a new grey paint job and new stickers. Gearbox casing is a good indicator of age that stickers can’t hide.
Blue engines are at least 26 years old now, and some could be 40 years old plus!
These engines were sold as manual tilt as well as power tilt - beware!
The 75C/90 went over to automatic choke with associated pipework and complications 93/94ish, along with all new electrics, although seems to have fared much better than the earlier 40/50hp automatic choke systems. The 75A/85A kept their original no nonsense round bowl carbs with manual choke.

I would be looking for a 00s onwards engine as most of the faults were ironed out then. If you can cope with premixing the fuel, a late model commercial 75A/85A (origin) model would be a good bet.

A really interesting read for me. Thanks for taking the time to type it out.

I knew when I bought mine it was a risk, but I just love them.

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by phantom 19

75/80/85/90 were great engines but be warned they seem to attract the home diy outboard enthusiast looking to make a few quid buying a junk one and selling on to unsuspecting buyer.

Pre 96 gearbox casting splits, often full of filler to hide. Casting improved after 96 to prevent this.
Pre 93 trim tilt motors rot worse than the later ones and if replaced with pattern part the relays are a cobble up.
Trim and tilt seals expensive to replace properly. Often the trim seal carriers will need to be replaced too as removal even with the genuine Yamaha tool can result in damage. If you are paying a dealer it can be expensive.
Cranks on abused ones can suffer - I once stripped five of these engines down and only one crank was anything like useable.
Gearshift rod will be most likely rotten on pre 96(ish) requiring powerhead removal and potential of broken bolts as the mounting bolts are rolled thread creating a void for corrosion to jam the bolts solid.
Pre 96 had mild steel painted steering tubes and tilt stops which rusted away. They changed to a much higher grade of steel (not stainless) after then.
Bent propshafts are common.
Gearbox rebuilds without the correct tools is also common.
Beware old engines with a new grey paint job and new stickers. Gearbox casing is a good indicator of age that stickers can’t hide.
Blue engines are at least 26 years old now, and some could be 40 years old plus!
These engines were sold as manual tilt as well as power tilt - beware!
The 75C/90 went over to automatic choke with associated pipework and complications 93/94ish, along with all new electrics, although seems to have fared much better than the earlier 40/50hp automatic choke systems. The 75A/85A kept their original no nonsense round bowl carbs with manual choke.

I would be looking for a 00s onwards engine as most of the faults were ironed out then. If you can cope with premixing the fuel, a late model commercial 75A/85A (origin) model would be a good bet.

Wrt the engine linked in the thread it says upgraded to 90hp with carb upgrade. Isnt there other stuff to change for a 75-90 upgrade? I thought exhaust & head was different

[nick.hooper]

Thanks Phantom 19 I have printed that page out it is a blueprint for buying a Yamaha outboard, and also thanks for spending time to collate and type out your thoughts and knowledge. Nick