Cable Steering - Stuck/Seized

rjbathgate · 11 November 2010, 07:02

Hi,

Having uncovered my RIB for the first time in 3 months, I find the steering has seized.

This has happened once before (after a long stint of being undercover), but a few strong nudges on the steering wheel slowly loosened the steering and all was ok again.

However this time, nothing is budging it, so I've started trying to investigate.

It's a cable steering system, and so far I have discovered this:

(pardon my lack of technical terms...)

a) When I undo the large nut which attaches the cable/sheath (from console) to the outboard part, the steering wheel turns freely. However, doing so causes the whole cable & sheath to move. If you check out the first photo, you'll see the cable and sheath moved away from the engine as a result of me turning the wheel.

When the large nut is attached to the 'engine' there is no movement at all.

This suggests to me that the cable inside the sheath is stuck against the sheath, as it doesn't seem to be able to move when the sheath/nut is fixed.

Surely the cable should move freely within the black sheath?

Also, moving it in the other direction (extended), it gets as far as 'middle' and stops. Presume it's hitting the stuck end (port side) bar.

b) When I undo the nut as above, and turn the wheel so the cable retracts, it moves as per above, but the port side of the steering 'cable' (the bit which the actual engine bar bolts to) doesn't move at all. I would have expected this to be one piece that moves together, and I'm quite concerned why the starboard side of the cable moves but the port size remains fixed. See second picture.

I have 'hit' the port side bar to try dislodge it, but no movement whatsoever (in as far as I want to go hitting it without fear of breaking something).

I've also put as much pressure on steering wheel as I want to (without fear of breaking something), and also tried pulling / pushing on everything else.

Have read a bit about people have success freeing the bar by attaching it to a drill and turning it... I don't have a drill big enough...!

Where do I go from here?

Should it be doing what it's doing in terms of part moving (but only when sheath is loose) and part still stuck?

This is probably caused by lack of maintenance on my bad, so I know for future, but at present, I need to get it moving so I can get it out to clean (or replace) it.

The 3rd and 4th pictures are just for reference to try and show the setup.

Any assistance, hugely appreciated! It's my birthday tomorrow as we were planning a day on the lakes to celebrate.

Many thanks
Rob

walruz · 11 November 2010, 07:41

I've had this happen in the past.

A couple of things to try: Disconnect the arm from the cable to the outboard and try twisting it with a spanner. If that doesn't free it then cover the end with a block of wood and try some blows with a hammer.

Don't forget to apply loads of WD40 or similar and grease the whole thing up if you do get it free as it looks very dry of any lubricant.

Ian

rjbathgate · 11 November 2010, 08:01

Hey,

Thanks for the reply.

Quote:

Originally Posted by walruz

Disconnect the arm from the cable to the outboard and try twisting it with a spanner.

Presume you mean the port side part, ie where the arm from engine attaches. I've tried that -- the part where the 'engine arm' bolts through spins freely so I can't use that to jimmy in a long screwdriver to then turn... and other than that, there is no way to get real purchase on the arm as it's pretty much smooth circular...

Quote:

Originally Posted by walruz

If that doesn't free it then cover the end with a block of wood and try some blows with a hammer.

Smacked it a number of times with wood... and medium force with hammer. Don't want to go too hard just yet incase I break something... or am I safe to hit it as hard as I can (with wood in between)

Quote:

Originally Posted by walruz

Don't forget to apply loads of WD40 or similar and grease the whole thing up if you do get it free as it looks very dry of any lubricant.

I've put wd40 pretty much everywhere I can, but there isn't really anywhere which looks like a handy place to squirt it... it's all sealed, so I've put some around the ends where the bar seals/enters into the engine block thingie.

Sounds like I need to cover the thing in more wd40, and whack it harder... I see how twisting it could help, but can't see how I can get any grip to do so...

Many thanks
Rob

biffer · 11 November 2010, 08:37

two things more, dont turn the cable round and round as the inner cable is spiral and you can bugger the cable, just wiggle it, second is put a bolt through the end of the cable before you wack it so you dont collaspe the hole, hit it as hard as you like, it the only way to get it out

T 15 · 11 November 2010, 10:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by biffer

two things more, dont turn the cable round and round as the inner cable is spiral and you can bugger the cable, just wiggle it, second is put a bolt through the end of the cable before you wack it so you dont collaspe the hole, hit it as hard as you like, it the only way to get it out

good tip re the bolt,

what is the best way to prevent the cable becoming seized ? ( apart from use )

Is grease, WD-40 or oil the best to use ?

would a wee bit of grease packed into the plastic end cap screw be worth while ?

any other ways ?

currently I spray a few times a year with WD-40 ( which is not "oil" ) or rub the bar with oil.

biffer · 11 November 2010, 12:24

wd ain't no good grease or oil

Nos4r2 · 11 November 2010, 14:53

Have you tried tilting the engine up and down? You'll need the cable fully installed, nut done up to do it. Sometimes it'll turn the cable in the tube, breaking the corrosion/dried out grease 'seal'.

Erin · 11 November 2010, 15:06

If you undo the steering arm (shown in your last photo) you will end up with a couple of flats which you shoudl be able to get your adjustable spanned onto, and then give it a turn i.e. rotate the stainless rod that passes though the tilt tube. In future, I woudl think you need to pump some grease into the grease nipple which is halfway along the black tilt tube.

Nos4r2 · 11 November 2010, 15:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

If you undo the steering arm (shown in your last photo) you will end up with a couple of flats which you shoudl be able to get your adjustable spanned onto, and then give it a turn i.e. rotate the stainless rod that passes though the tilt tube. In future, I woudl think you need to pump some grease into the grease nipple which is halfway along the black tilt tube.

Sometimes a rag soaked in hot water and wrapped around the tilt tube helps too-or any other way of heating it gently.A hot air gun (not too close) is good if you can shield everything else. The heat will soften any grease in there.

If you're trying to free it with WD40, don't. Use plusgas instead-it penetrates far better.

jyasaki · 11 November 2010, 16:04

Plusgas? Never heard of it.

jky

Nos4r2 · 11 November 2010, 17:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Plusgas? Never heard of it.

jky

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=plusgas

It's better as a non aerosol product (they do both) and thinner than WD40.

ashbypower · 11 November 2010, 17:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Plusgas? Never heard of it.

jky

Your'e side of the pond probably known as Breakfree !!

Poly · 11 November 2010, 18:51

Am I following correctly you can get the engine to rotate (using the steering wheel) in one direction but not the other? That doesn't sound like the "normal" stuck streering (that I've experienced) - which is stuck in both directions.

rjbathgate · 11 November 2010, 19:49

Hi all,

Thanks for all your replies...

Polwart: no, not quite... I only get one direction movement of the steering wheel when the starboard side nut of the cable is disconnected from the 'engine mount'...

It seems as though the port side of the cable is stuck only -- but looking at videos of such kit, it looks as though this 'end' of the cable is indeed 'extendable two-part'... I think

RE: If you undo the steering arm (shown in your last photo) you will end up with a couple of flats which you shoudl be able to get your adjustable spanned onto, and then give it a turn

The 'flats' where the steering arm connect to -- this section of the cable turns on it's own - i.e. turning that doesn't turn the rest of the cable - I guess to allow slightly different angles for the steering arm to bolt in...

I'll give the tilting engine up and down a try, whilst hitting the cable (from engine arm side)...., and whilst trying to 'steer' too.

If that doesn't work, I'll move to heat and then hitting it even harder

Re wrapping a hot rag around it -- is the aim to heat up the cable (starboard side where it connects with engine arm), or do I want to heat up the 'black' central part, to try adn get heat into it to the grease inside?

Many thanks!
Rob

Downhilldai · 11 November 2010, 21:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Plusgas? Never heard of it.

jky

Penetrating oil - available from all adult shops.

biff's spot on with this. It's most likely to be rusted in the tilt tube, rather than solidified grease.

http://rib.net/forum/showpost.php?p=288324&postcount=8

Nos4r2 · 11 November 2010, 22:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Penetrating oil - available from all adult shops.

biff's spot on with this. It's most likely to be rusted in the tilt tube, rather than solidified grease.

http://rib.net/forum/showpost.php?p=288324&postcount=8

He is, but it's still worth a go. If nothing else it may make it easier for the penetrating oil to get in.

Downhilldai · 11 November 2010, 22:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

He is, but it's still worth a go. If nothing else it may make it easier for the penetrating oil to get in.

Yep.

jyasaki · 12 November 2010, 20:21

Thanks for the Plusgas clarification.

I use PB blaster myself; but I'm not sure it's available in the UK/Europe.

jky

Pikey Dave · 13 November 2010, 09:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Thanks for the Plusgas clarification.

I use PB blaster myself; but I'm not sure it's available in the UK/Europe.

jky

There's not much that can't be "un seized" with a bucket of diesel

BogMonster · 13 November 2010, 09:25

Just buy a can of that Mr McKenic. One small can will unseize two whole Mercury 200hp engines that have been on the sea bed for 2 years so I would think it will unstick a seized up steering system without even needing to take the can out of the car