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06 April 2009, 00:31
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#21
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
You'd need to remove the leg and disassemble completely to weld it up. And be damn careful that things don't warp.
Had a friend who broke the skeg off a new Suzuki motor; he had a muffler guy weld it back on a grind it smooth. Next trip out the gearbox disintegrated due to water ingress through melted seals. Luckily for him, Suzuki decided to cover it under warranty, despite the "remove shoe, shoot foot" procedure that got him there.
Personally, if I was going to effect a repair, I'd use a steel putty type epoxy, and fair it out a bit along the remaining plate. It's not going to hold against a lot of load or anything; it's just there to isolate the prop from the surface.
jky
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You could just dunk the whole lot in a bucket of water whist welding it, but I suspect that with the amount of metal around the area that the heat would dissipate before warping of the gear case would take place.
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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06 April 2009, 00:50
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#22
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Member
Country: France
Town: Côte d'Azur
Boat name: Beaver Patrol
Make: Avon Searider SR4
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,934
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I've seen this before. It was caused by a line which was tied onto one of the transom eyes which fell over the back at speed. It got wrapped around the prop which pulled it tight, the force of which was enough to remove a similarly sized chunk out of the cav plate. No other damage was done to the engine (although the rope probably came off pretty bad!).
PS. I see in the first pic there is some paint missing on the prop. On the prop from the above situation you could see marks around the base where the rope and rubbed some of the paint off.
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06 April 2009, 13:29
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#23
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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If it's any help, When I was looking at the various ways I could get PT onto mine, I discovered that the leg off the 75 is shared with quite a bit (incl Yam & Mariner) from about 50 - 90 HP.
Any breakers near you? Might be cheaper & easier to get a replacement gear case - your seller may be more willing to give you back a few hundred quid for a spare part & the hassle than the whole lot. I didn't cross check gearbox carryover, but from memory there are essentially two types - the old ones that take a smaller dia prop & the newer "K-series" size.
There's someone I saw recently on Ebay breaking a Merc 75 - NS marine?
I do wonder - the port list problem down to your hydrofoils not being particularly horizontal?
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06 April 2009, 13:52
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#24
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset & Hants
Boat name: Streaker/Orange
Make: Avon/Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50Yam/25 Mariner
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280
I do wonder - the port list problem down to your hydrofoils not being particularly horizontal?
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It all suddently seems obvious when I read this ! Likewise the fitting if a 'used' caseing for a few hundred quid to fix the problem.
I wish I could think of these things !
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06 April 2009, 18:30
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#25
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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Neil. .. if you can get the lower leg off .. drop it into West of Scotland Engineering, at Yorkhill in Glasgow , they will repair it to a standard you wouldnt have known there to be any damage. I used to catch/snap bits off my skeg on my 135, 150's and they straightened and welded them to perfection, and if there is any doubt (David Somerville , the owner) will tell you he cant do it but this would be unlikely IMO. Perhaps you could recoup some cost from the vendor, but if not, its one of those 'down to experience' ones, but I'm sorry you've had that experience from some scumbag .. He'll fill in the holes on the other side too, but before doing anything, test the boat to see if your problem is cured, to be sure you dont need to put the fins back on
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06 April 2009, 20:56
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Easdale
Boat name: Miss Isle
Make: Solent 6.9
Length: 6m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,427
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That's good to know, thanks. I live in Oldham so its a bit of a haul to Glasgow, but may well be worth the trip for a good job. I'm hoping to get out on Sunday and see how it goes with hole, then take it from there.
Thanks for all the help guys, you have somewhat lessened the shock I felt when I pulled the foils off and felt my chin hit the floor.
While I was up in Oban picking the engine up, I blew the catalitic converter on the car, which to cut a long story short meant I had to leave earlier than I expected. But for that the foils would have come off up there and this would have been sorted there and then.
Still life's never dull eh :-)
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06 April 2009, 21:22
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#27
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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Ah! sorry I saw Oban in one of your posts and looked no further ..sorry .. doh !
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06 April 2009, 21:46
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ayrshire
Boat name: Raven
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 suzuki
MMSI: 235040525
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 654
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We seem to have moved on from the cause of this a little, but I have seen this before. It was due to some dopy sod trying to changed the impeller,without the knowledge of where all the bolts are.... I, I mean he, had never done it before and didn't know about the bolt hidden under the anti torque anode at the back of the leg. so I, I mean he, preceeded to hit it with wood,resulting a perfect replica of your damage what a donkey I , I mean he felt.
However it's not the end of the world, It was repaired using chemical metal sanded (cost next to nothing) and painted you would never have know it had happened. lasted 7 years like that. On your new boat, check the shafts not bent If it was an ally prop unlikely, new prop and your laughing..
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07 April 2009, 01:34
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#29
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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07 April 2009, 12:57
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#30
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Easdale
Boat name: Miss Isle
Make: Solent 6.9
Length: 6m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IBWET
We seem to have moved on from the cause of this a little, but I have seen this before. It was due to some dopy sod trying to changed the impeller,without the knowledge of where all the bolts are.... I, I mean he, had never done it before and didn't know about the bolt hidden under the anti torque anode at the back of the leg. so I, I mean he, preceeded to hit it with wood,resulting a perfect replica of your damage what a donkey I , I mean he felt.
However it's not the end of the world, It was repaired using chemical metal sanded (cost next to nothing) and painted you would never have know it had happened. lasted 7 years like that. On your new boat, check the shafts not bent If it was an ally prop unlikely, new prop and your laughing..
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Chemical metal? Is that the same as this:
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/QUICKSTEEL-Qui...3A2|240%3A1318
That Rogue Wave has made me aware of?
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07 April 2009, 17:12
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#31
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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A decent looking lower unit for you in this box of goodies. You may even be able to swap the relevant parts over to convert yours to a 90.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/mercury-70hp-9...1%7C240%3A1308
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08 April 2009, 16:37
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#32
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
You could just dunk the whole lot in a bucket of water whist welding it, but I suspect that with the amount of metal around the area that the heat would dissipate before warping of the gear case would take place.
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I'm not sure that would protect rubber seals. They're a bit more temp sensitive than aluminum.
jky
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09 April 2009, 21:09
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#33
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Southampton
Boat name: DynaMoHumm/ SRV/deja
Make: Avon8.4, 5.4 & 4.777
Length: 8m +
Engine: Cat3126 Yam 90 &70
MMSI: 42
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,562
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yep that's the same stuff. I guarantee you it will repair your anti-ventilation plate a treat and with minimum fuss. If you get cracking you could have the hole jon done in 4 huurs including 10 minutes of standing back and saying wow what a good job I just done. Fill the holes for the doel fins so you are not tempted to put them back on.
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10 April 2009, 23:53
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#34
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
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Yes it's good stuff - have used if for loads of things - from fixing the bog to filling break through cavities on a skimmed cylinder head.
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14 May 2009, 17:58
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#35
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Easdale
Boat name: Miss Isle
Make: Solent 6.9
Length: 6m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,427
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Thanks all for the advice re this. I fitted a tilt pin, which has stopped me trimming too low, and that seems to have cured the tilt issue, obviously the hydrofoils are off so that may have done it anyway.
Filled the hole with quicksteel, at which point it looked like this:
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14 May 2009, 18:00
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#36
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Easdale
Boat name: Miss Isle
Make: Solent 6.9
Length: 6m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,427
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Some paint, and now it looks like this
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14 May 2009, 18:02
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#37
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Easdale
Boat name: Miss Isle
Make: Solent 6.9
Length: 6m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,427
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O and I've changed the prop and painted the skeg as well.
So all in all very happy, lets see if I can knock the lot out on the way to the IOM
Hopefully all this will be useful in the event some other poor soul has the same problem. Got to say that stuff is excellent.
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14 May 2009, 18:04
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#38
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
Boat name: Breawatch
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
MMSI: ex directory!!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,203
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Great job neil glad you are back in the water
J
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jambo
'Carpe Diem'
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club
Member of SABS ( Scottish West Division)
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15 May 2009, 22:53
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#39
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 380
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Yes good job... I did the same as IBWET, sorry his friend, and also did the chemical metal repair. That was 5 or 6 years ago and it still looks fine.
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16 May 2009, 10:20
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#40
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Yep, good to go! Nice job.
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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