compression and wires I.D. from magneto on mariner 15c 684 help please??

[Fenlander]

As Oldman says you do need to remove that flywheel cover and then a feeler gauge and screwdriver will fit through the slot to check/set the points.

It looks like you have a single primary coil for both cylinder's secondary coils so if you have a spark from one secondary coil then the primary should be OK... just a points problem hopefully... either a closed gap or mechanical/wiring breakage.

If removing flywheel don't put it in gear to hold against undoing the nut... buy or make up a generic flywheel holding tool... just a long arm (40cm or so should do) bolted to the flywheel.

[Fenlander]

You mention cleaning the points with a business card to avoid scratching. You can only set points properly with a feeler gauge when they have flat faces and you may need to file/sand them to achieve that as they often burn to very uneven faces.

You will of course have to check/set the timing as... unlike a CDi system where timing should stay correct once set... resetting the points gap or fitting new points can/will change the timing.

[Oldman2]

I'm holding out for a lotto win & guessing a faulty condenser as I seem to recall without re reading that the faulty ign lead did produce a half hearted spark which soon died off.

[daijinks]

Great ! Thanks oldman2

[Fenlander]

My last bit of info spam for the day. Settings...

[beamishken]

I'm with oldman2 check the points first if you do need to pull the flywheel its fitted via a key so will go back exactly as it was originally. I wouldnt mess with the timing you'll probably make it worse, adjusting timing after setting points is to rectify any error with the points gap which would alter timing. You have two sets of points so if you get one set spot on & the other slightly out & time the engine to suit either then one will always be wrong. Better to concentrate on getting both points set correctly. Messing with the timing could induce another fault and make the whole process harder its not like a 4 cylinder car engine where 1 set of points fires every cylinder & timing one gets all 4 correct

[daijinks]

I've gone in and removed the tin lid on the top of the flywheel to expose the truth.( I used small amounts of wd40 and a lot of flattered screwdriving ingenuity).
All looks mint and ok inside. The points are nice stainless and all parts look fairly shiney .

I need to buy a feeler gauge for settings ( but have no ideal how to reset them anyway at this point so I'm not touching any screws)

First to see if a clean would sort it out, I slightly prized each points open with a small screw driver (not on the contacts) and then inserted card and paper to remove deposits, going upward.

Small stains of dirt/oil did absorb with the paper.

Put it all back together and hey..... nothing, no spark anywhere. Any configuration.

Now I'm depressed and beer drinking looking at an old black T shirt covering up my future wouldbe happiness.

Oh the trials....

[daijinks]

I’ve sobered up.

Making a puller. Before I pull it, does any of these pictures show corrosion on the points? I can’t see the adjusting screw to release and then lock off the gap. ( perhaps it’s hidden underneath).
What is the right thing / process to clean these up btw.
Cheers all.

[Fenlander]

It does all look quite shiny. Points will work with a degree of pitting but it's not possible to gap them unless the faces are clean and flat. However from the image of yours in the open position they look pretty clean.

In one image is that a hair or strand of wire/metal bridging the points?

Isn't the screw to set the points that gold one... with the adj notches on baseplate and movable part of the points so you can use a screwdriver to twist to set the gap??

[beamishken]

Id say the points are fine & wouldn't mess with them further than maybe a quick rub with fine wet & dry or emery folded over between the contacts. I'd probably go with oldman2's suggestion of faulty condenser's or maybe the coil under the flywheel. You said you disconnected the stop switch, did you also disconnect the kill switch (if fitted)?

[daijinks]

Nice one! Hats off to you all for wet and dry advice on the points and all other checks. Both sparked well even on old plugs after that clean up.
I got it into the wheelie bin and it fired up after a couple of pulls, held tick over ok but spluttered now and again. I felt there was pulsed pressure coming out of the pee hole but there was very little water even with increased revs or in gear.

I suspect a blockage or something.
So I shut it down.

I’ve yet to remove the bottom unit but do intend to replace the impeller during the final service but if there was pulsed pressure coming out of the water exhaust then does that say it working some what ok?

Is there a ABC step by step guide to find possible water flow problems?
Is there a product to pass thru the system to help flush it out?

Does only water come out of the pee hole? And exhaust fumes only out thru the prop?

So happy to hear it run.... thanks again

[beamishken]

First check would be impeller, make sure its all there if bits are missing then likely they are blocking somewhere & will need flushed out before fitting the new impeller. If it has a thermostat fitted, start there you will also get an idea of internal build up by looking in there. If lots of build up then running in a solution of hydrochloric/phosphoric acid or citric acid will help clear the waterways

[daijinks]

Ah Beamishken you are spot on. I’ve had the bottom unit off today and all looks mint and proberbly never been off before. The phanes on impeller were a little warped but no breakage at all.
The thermostat mind, was crusty and around it.

I’ve cleaned, scraped and vacuumed the orifices there and soaked the stat ready to reassemble. It was only in and around the stat that was crusty and not below in the after circulation chamber.

So do you know which way/direction the water exits and flows thru the engine and stat and chambers around the head to the pee hole ? as I was going to flush from the stat hole hoping to see if water goes out of the pee hole strong and well from the head area thus bypassing any of the bottom unit and if good flow is found then my possible blockage is only further down. (hope that makes sense).

I read that it takes 2 - 5 mins to get any water to flow the loop from pick up to out of pee hole at tickover speed. Is this ok to wait and see or is it a load of bollocks and it should happen within 10 seconds or so.
I also read to poke wire up the pee hole as far as poss to brake down any crud.
Anyway, love this motor. The parts are at least 43 years old and in super nick.

[Samak89]

Hi does anyone have the service manual for this outboard ? Mariner 15c 684

[Tommy c]

This is a good link for specific model parts.

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/

[Fenlander]

I think I do Samak, I’ll have a look. What info are you after?

[Fenlander]

Samak just to confirm which of these is your outboard?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkqLG5VppT8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7SkoimKNWE

[Samak89]

The first one that is attached to the dinghy and running in the lake.

[Fenlander]

Thanks I'm on it and will look out the info you need.

[Fenlander]

This has become a bit more involved. You need to know if you have Magneto or CDI ign and also the year as a 1989 model is different to other years.

It might be easier if you can source the manual I have from Ebay or similar over your way?

It is the Clymer Mariner Outboard Shop Manual 2-220HP 1976-89. Ref. B714