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21 April 2008, 16:20
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#1
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Town: Goes
Boat name: Antonin
Make: Uttern
Length: 8m +
Engine: 1.7 DTI mecruiser/Cu
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 14
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cooling problems 1.7 DTI (Mercruiser/Cummins)
Hi,
I suffer cooling problems from the beginning. The engine is from 2004 with Alpha one 1 gen 2.
My boat is 6,8 m (Uttern C68). At full speed 4200rpm@46kmh
Above 3600 rpm the engine gets hot, to hot. The temp meter in the dashboard slowly climbs up to the red section. On 4200 rpm it takes about 2 a 3 minutes till it in red.
I allready changes the impeller. It helps a bit for a while.
What can be wrong... Is something wrong or is this normal?
Maybe the pipes in the heat exchanger are closed, but this is hard to check. I have to dissasemble a lot to check that. Anyone got the same experience or has some tips?
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21 April 2008, 17:48
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#2
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Town: Goes
Boat name: Antonin
Make: Uttern
Length: 8m +
Engine: 1.7 DTI mecruiser/Cu
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 14
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I read about someone who has 'bled the coolant line' and solved the problem.
Anybody knows what this means and how to do it exactly?
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21 April 2008, 22:27
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#3
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider 450 Rib
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 5/18/30 HP
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybride
Hi,
I suffer cooling problems from the beginning. The engine is from 2004 with Alpha one 1 gen 2.
My boat is 6,8 m (Uttern C68). At full speed 4200rpm@46kmh
Above 3600 rpm the engine gets hot, to hot. The temp meter in the dashboard slowly climbs up to the red section. On 4200 rpm it takes about 2 a 3 minutes till it in red.
I allready changes the impeller. It helps a bit for a while.
What can be wrong... Is something wrong or is this normal?
Maybe the pipes in the heat exchanger are closed, but this is hard to check. I have to dissasemble a lot to check that. Anyone got the same experience or has some tips?
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Have you checked your thermostat ? Does it work properly opens/shut. Change and test.
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22 April 2008, 16:33
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Blue & Ding Dong
Make: Ribeye,SR4 & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115,50 & 15Hp Yams
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,252
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Hi I have had the same problem with a Uttern S64 with a 4.3 Lt petrel, all started because when it was got ready for me to collect it was run up on muffs to the Alpha 1 leg!
But this is not conected to the engine for cooling, mine has a through hull inlet for this! So he ran it up & destroyed the inpela for the engine as it received no water. In the end I had a new water pump fitted & anther through hull intake fitted as these are very prone to blocking so if one blocks the other can keep the engine cool.
So if it is fitted as mine your water intake on the leg will be just cooling the leg & not the engine!
Nick
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23 April 2008, 19:11
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#5
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Town: Goes
Boat name: Antonin
Make: Uttern
Length: 8m +
Engine: 1.7 DTI mecruiser/Cu
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Hearne
So if it is fitted as mine your water intake on the leg will be just cooling the leg & not the engine!
Nick
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Nick, i don't get that?
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24 April 2008, 15:41
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Blue & Ding Dong
Make: Ribeye,SR4 & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115,50 & 15Hp Yams
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybride
Nick, i don't get that?
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On my boat if I put muffs on the leg to run the boat up out of water this will only cool the leg mot the engine!
The engine is cooled through hole in the hull so it needs to be on the water to run the engine up!
Nick
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25 April 2008, 10:05
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: east cowes
Make: academic
Length: no boat
Engine: fresh air
MMSI: N/A
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybride
Hi,
I suffer cooling problems from the beginning. The engine is from 2004 with Alpha one 1 gen 2.
My boat is 6,8 m (Uttern C68). At full speed 4200rpm@46kmh
Above 3600 rpm the engine gets hot, to hot. The temp meter in the dashboard slowly climbs up to the red section. On 4200 rpm it takes about 2 a 3 minutes till it in red.
I allready changes the impeller. It helps a bit for a while.
What can be wrong... Is something wrong or is this normal?
Maybe the pipes in the heat exchanger are closed, but this is hard to check. I have to dissasemble a lot to check that. Anyone got the same experience or has some tips?
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Hi, I have one of these engines and the temperature never goes above 80 degrees c, even when flat out.
Nick.
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26 April 2008, 02:30
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Midlands
Make: Nautique
Length: 6m +
Engine: PCM 5.7l
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,082
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ditto, sure your gauge isn't in Fahrenheit?
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26 April 2008, 18:17
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#9
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Town: Goes
Boat name: Antonin
Make: Uttern
Length: 8m +
Engine: 1.7 DTI mecruiser/Cu
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 14
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Today i'll tried to bleed the internal coolant circuit. There was no air in ;(
I'm desperate.. above 3600RPM the fun begins, but not in my case...
The next thing i want to check is the thermostat.
Do these things easily give problems?? Personally think not. What can be wrong with a thermostat?
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27 April 2008, 12:26
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: east cowes
Make: academic
Length: no boat
Engine: fresh air
MMSI: N/A
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybride
The next thing i want to check is the thermostat.
Do these things easily give problems?? Personally think not. What can be wrong with a thermostat?
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It could be stuck shut. You could remove it and try running the engine without a thermostat.
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02 May 2008, 21:14
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Clitheroe
Length: no boat
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 77
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Remove the thermostat and put it in some pretty hot water, if it moves, its fine. If not or it moves very slowly then that could be the source of your problem.
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02 May 2008, 21:32
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Essex
Boat name: Crooked Bow
Make: Zodiac Pro Open 550
Length: 5m +
Engine: Evinrude etec 115
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 36
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1. Check thermostat (remove as stated) or replace (quite cheap).
2. Check guage - is this reading correctly (I had a temp guage fail in a car and it tended to read hot when the engine was in fact at normal operating temperature)?
3. If cooling is okay and guage is correct then you may have a genuine problem with the engine. One possible cause is cylinder head gasket failure. Alternatively you may have a mixture problem.
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Dave; Essex
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09 May 2008, 22:25
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#13
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Town: Goes
Boat name: Antonin
Make: Uttern
Length: 8m +
Engine: 1.7 DTI mecruiser/Cu
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 14
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hi all, thx for helping
Today i removed the thermostat. The overheat problem is less, but not gone.
It takes a longer time now untill the temp meter is going in red.
How can i measure the real temperature?
I have a strange propellor. 18d-16P Maybe i should try a 15d-17p.
But an expert says that another prop will not influence motor temp
I am know working on a idea to put a little radiator with fan in the closed cooling circuit.
Its quiet easy to do that (as i suppose now)
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13 May 2008, 10:09
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#14
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Dublin
Boat name: Platypus
Make: Parker 630
Length: 6m +
Engine: 1.7 Mercruiser DTI
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 130
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this may be of interest
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13 May 2008, 15:59
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#15
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Town: Goes
Boat name: Antonin
Make: Uttern
Length: 8m +
Engine: 1.7 DTI mecruiser/Cu
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 14
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thx. I allready am a member there.
I seem to be the only one suffering heat problems...
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21 June 2008, 07:59
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#16
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Town: Goes
Boat name: Antonin
Make: Uttern
Length: 8m +
Engine: 1.7 DTI mecruiser/Cu
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 14
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Heat problem solved!
What i did is remove the heatexchanger cap on the front off the
motorblock. 3/4 of the heatpipes where filled with
little 'shell-powder'!!
I bought a 4 mm long metal ash and pushed it through the holes.
After that i flushed the system with fresh water to get rid of the shells.
I fixed this in about 1,5 hour. I hope this will help more people. I
think to do it better every year.
p.s. do you see the three blowers on top? :-)
Did this earlier to get fresh airflow (and cooling)
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21 June 2008, 08:37
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Southampton
Boat name: DynaMoHumm/ SRV/deja
Make: Avon8.4, 5.4 & 4.777
Length: 8m +
Engine: Cat3126 Yam 90 &70
MMSI: 42
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,562
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you been running in shallow or silted water?
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Here it comes again, I don't stand a chance
Soul possession, Got me in a trance
Pullin' me back to you - Deja Voodoo
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21 June 2008, 10:04
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#18
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Member
Country: Netherlands
Town: Goes
Boat name: Antonin
Make: Uttern
Length: 8m +
Engine: 1.7 DTI mecruiser/Cu
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue Wave
you been running in shallow or silted water?
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Mostly at a lake with a dept of 1 to 3 meter with sandy bottom.
What you see on the picture is the inheritance from 4 years.
What you don't see at the picture (just forgot) is the picture of the lid (cap?)
This was also 50% filled with permanently grown shells.
Boat is from 2004 and it lies summer and winter in the water.
I am now working on a idea to make it possibility to easily flush the heat exchanger with sweet water from inside the boat.
Later more.
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17 October 2008, 19:31
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bordon, Hampshire
Boat name: Sea Otter
Make: Uttern
Length: 7m +
Engine: Inboard Diesel
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1
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Coling problems cummins 1.7 diesel
Antonin/members.
I have an overheating problem on a cummins 1.7 used in a Uttern S64 exactle as described. ( Overheating at higher revs )
What have you Guy's done to resolve this problem ?
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