Copper grease

[mick]

Do you use it on your spark plug threads

[Nos4r2]

No. A VERY light smear off grease is all mine get.

Don't use copper grease on your outboard. Ever. You'll have issues with galvanic corrosion if you do.

[Ribochet]

Never used anything - never will

[mick]

I don't use it was just reading on pistonheads about it

[spartacus]

The only thing copper grease should be used on is the backs of brake pads. A very light smear of a marine grease can be used on spark plug threads, however don't over-torque them.

[freespirit3]

Originally Posted by spartacus

The only thing copper grease should be used on is the backs of brake pads. A very light smear of a marine grease can be used on spark plug threads, however don't over-torque them.

And even brake pads should not really be applied with copper grease now as it can upset modern abs systems. Can cause fault codes.

I was always taught not to put anything on the plug threads

[uncle al]

copper grease is more of a automotive rather than a marine grease. I used to use it mainly on exhaust systems when i worked in garages.

[Searider]

Please don't ever put copper grease anywhere near aluminium.

If any seawater comes into contact a galvanic cell will be set up with the aluminium becoming anodic to the copper and merrily corroding away.

[geir]

When I was working offshore, we occasionally used something like this: Loctite Nickel Anti-Seize - Henkel
Never tried it on my outboard tho...
Geir

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by freespirit3

And even brake pads should not really be applied with copper grease now as it can upset modern abs systems. Can cause fault codes.

Got any more info on that? I use Lockheed red grease on brake rebuilds (floating caliper), lube slider pins, etc. Never had issues with copper grease on the backs of pads. On old school brakes - the majority of ABS issues are down to faulty sensors or broken reluctor rings.

[RIB-Teccie]

If you are rebuilding or maintaining any outboard simply brush some waterproof marine grease on every bolt (except crankcase) and you will never suffer a seized bolt again. If everyone did this the outboard would last much longer and be easier to maintain when bought second hand. It's a shame the manufacturers don't consider the owners when making them.

[uncle al]

Got to agree with RIB-Teccie, thats what I used to do when I was working around the country, it saved me a lot of time , I got into the pub sooner and tried differant ales around the U.K.

[Pikey Dave]

I use the blue BRP marine grease on the engines. I'm sure that there's an off the shelf equivalent, but for the amount you use, it's not worth the hassle of finding one.

[RIB-Teccie]

There is a copper derived grease you can use. It's Rocal anti-seize compound. It's expensive and messy though. I still preferred the marine grease though.

[Peter_C]

Anti-sieze compound that is silverish in color is okay to use, but MOST people put way to much on. You do not need to coat the threads at all, but just an amount about the equivalent of a match head will do an entire plug. Put it near the thread tips, smear it a little and put the plug in. Personally I remove my spark plugs too much to need to do so, but I have a two stroke.

For brake parts Sil-Glyde is all we use, for both lubing the sliders, and on the back of the brake pads. With a two year warranty on all repairs, and long term customers, we find this is the best solution.

[m chappelow]

If your old school engineering ; ) "Graphite " dust or flake is another non grease dry lubricant ,, good for spark plug threads as its electrically conductive unlike normal oil based grease , it stands a load of heat as it doesn't melt & it wont freeze .