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16 November 2015, 13:32
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#1
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Castlebar
Boat name: Clewless
Make: Valiant DR 490
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60 hp ETEC
MMSI: Awaitng one
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,339
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Corrosion on the the LU
I pulled the L.U. this weekend to change to impeller (4 years old circa 60 hrs) it was cracked and I doubt that were was another season it it. I noticed that the metal cap where the gear shift rod enters the gear box had a grey sludge on it. I wiped it off and found that the sludge was the same colour as the metal cap. The annode in the L.U. was in perfect health. The engine is ran of muffs after every use however the LU is not dipped in fresh water after every use. The rib lives on a trailer. I have attached a photo with a stick pointing to the grey cap to which I refer.
Question: Is this normal or is it a sign that an annode is not doing its job.
Regards
TSM
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16 November 2015, 16:22
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#2
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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In my experience, the signs of an anode not doing its job is that metal that begins to look like open cell foam - sort of spongy looking, with tiny holes, or metal that should be there disappearing.
While I am not ruling out some kind of corrosion of the cover plate, I don't think it appears to be electrolysis related.
If I were you, I'd clean it up and ensure that there is enough metal left to do its job; if so, give it a coating of thick waterproof grease and check it again next year.
Just my opinion;
jky
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16 November 2015, 17:16
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#3
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Castlebar
Boat name: Clewless
Make: Valiant DR 490
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60 hp ETEC
MMSI: Awaitng one
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,339
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The metal casing seems ok. I was planning to clean it with a tooth brush and cover with waterproof grease as suggested. These is no water getting into the gearbox.
TSM
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17 November 2015, 11:37
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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mick
when i pulled my LU off my Suzuki 2009 160 hours last year to do my own service for the first time there was nothing like what your experiencing in terms of deposits as in the pic and i kept my boat the same as you and flushed through the leg connection, [4 years old 60 hours is nothing].i would certainly look at the anode connectivity as said by jky it seems that the cap is acting to some degree as the anode.
cheers
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17 November 2015, 13:35
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#5
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Castlebar
Boat name: Clewless
Make: Valiant DR 490
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60 hp ETEC
MMSI: Awaitng one
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,339
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I went rooting around last night and found a thin wire broken. This wire seemed to link the saddle to the leg of the outboard. The location where the wire should have connented to the leg was also corroded. I am thinking that this wire has something to do with annodes. I re-connected it. On the plus side. I cleaned the grey metal last night and it is in good condition.
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17 November 2015, 14:34
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by two stroke mick
I went rooting around last night and found a thin wire broken. This wire seemed to link the saddle to the leg of the outboard. The location where the wire should have connected to the leg was also corroded. I am thinking that this wire has something to do with anodes. I re-connected it. On the plus side. I cleaned the grey metal last night and it is in good condition.
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that's problem solved mick the wires connect all the bits together conductivity on the leg there might be two or three on some motors. so your impeller will be corroded on, to be honest wd 40 not brilliant try your local car shop for something more penetrating or diesel.a Sharpe tap with a flat punch on the impeller boss [steel bit might break the seal] your right though its all good saying no maintenance for three years but when you do get there it can be expensive.
cheers
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17 November 2015, 14:58
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#7
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Castlebar
Boat name: Clewless
Make: Valiant DR 490
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60 hp ETEC
MMSI: Awaitng one
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,339
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From here on I indend to flush the LU in a tank of fresh water after use. I will also removed the LU once a year and remove/ replace the impeller. I will also cover that grey thing with a smattering of grease. One of the very ggood things about maintaining your own equipment is that you will pay attention to a problem at the early stages. Rather than be rushing with a job to get it done in the appointed time.
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17 November 2015, 16:58
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Retford
Boat name: Spy-sea-one
Make: Excel 435
Length: 4m +
Engine: Suzuki Outboard/25/4
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,532
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Totally agree mick you know it's done then, when you have it sorted put an ohm meter across the leg to check continuity.
Just for info at 160 hours I had no sign of depletion on the anodes.
That little wire has caused quite a problem hope you get the impeller off ok.
Cheers
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17 November 2015, 17:00
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#9
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by two stroke mick
I went rooting around last night and found a thin wire broken. This wire seemed to link the saddle to the leg of the outboard. The location where the wire should have connented to the leg was also corroded. I am thinking that this wire has something to do with annodes. I re-connected it. On the plus side. I cleaned the grey metal last night and it is in good condition.
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Sounds right. All major metal bits should be connected to keep them at the same potential, and to allow the few anodes to protect them all. That may well be your problem. If you need to re-make the wire, use a small diameter stainless cable, and make sure the connections are clean so you get conductance through them.
jky
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