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23 April 2018, 00:08
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Acharacle
Boat name: Iolar
Make: Redbay
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF175
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,047
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DF140 engine support
Lo all,
In advance of a long tow up to Easdale I'm looking for a specific recommendation for engine support.
I used to use a fantastic yolk fabricated by PD but it went missing. I have tried to make a replacement myself but out of wood, but it's not entirely convincing. It has a habit of slipping out downwards.
So I'm looking for recommendations , hopefully from Suzi DF140 owners, about what they use for support while towing. I've done a search and one of the answers i liked most was using a keel roller, but it doesn't look like there's enough clearance round the trim ram for that. I've also had a suggestion of having a 20 - 30mm polyprop (or similar soft but tough material) bar and jamming it in the yolk between the hinge and the tilt ram but it looks to me like that would keep the engine tilted too far up (I generally have the engine at about 45degrees when towing).
Any and all suggestions gratefully received.
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23 April 2018, 07:20
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset
Boat name: Seabadger 2
Make: Delta / Ribcraft 6.8
Length: 7m +
Engine: Various
MMSI: -
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 743
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I have a DF140 and this is my method:
Firstly tilt the engine to a position you are happy to tow with without risk to the skeg hitting the ground. Measure from the top of the two trim rams to the respective trim stops on the underside of the leg.
From a length of 32mm UPVC waste pipe cut two sections to this measurement.
Repeat the above from a length of 40mm UPVC waste pipe
Using a tube of Puraflex or Sikaflex smother the outside of the small tube with this and insert into the larger tube. Force as much sikaflex into the annulus between the two pipes as you can. Repeat this with the other two sections of pipe you have cut. Allow to set.
Tilt the engine up further and slide the pipes over each of the trim pistons. Tilt the engine back down until the leg weight is transferred 50/50 between the tilt ram and the two UPVC pipes.
Note I tried this with just single sections of 32mm UPVC but found they were too weak. Gluing the inner tube to the outer tube makes them a lot stronger. I can show you these tubes at Easdale if this doesn't make sense.
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23 April 2018, 08:33
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Chesterfield
Boat name: Sea Quell
Make: Picton Cobra
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 4 Stroke
MMSI: 235038298
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,095
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Can you post a photo of the rams... I have a couple of US My-Wedge supports from my old Opti that may fit. The Opti was a twin ram system
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23 April 2018, 09:13
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Acharacle
Boat name: Iolar
Make: Redbay
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF175
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,047
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Hi guys.
Diver : that's a cracker. Might give that one a go.
Jeff: I don't have a clear photo of the rams unfortunately. And the boats down in Wales so won't be able to take a pic until the weekend.
Theres two rams, I think the diameter is about 16mm. The diameter of the cylinder (ie the base the support would need to sit on) is probably about 40mm.
If you reckon they'd fit you can PM me to 'talk turkey' [emoji16]
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23 April 2018, 09:17
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Chesterfield
Boat name: Sea Quell
Make: Picton Cobra
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 4 Stroke
MMSI: 235038298
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Gurney
Hi guys.
Diver : that's a cracker. Might give that one a go.
Jeff: I don't have a clear photo of the rams unfortunately. And the boats down in Wales so won't be able to take a pic until the weekend.
Theres two rams, I think the diameter is about 16mm. The diameter of the cylinder (ie the base the support would need to sit on) is probably about 40mm.
If you reckon they'd fit you can PM me to 'talk turkey' [emoji16]
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Hi Dan .... this is the item - but I suspect it is not suitable for yours . You use one and it slips over either of the two outer trim rams . My newer F150 has a single centre ram and I use a split type one.
EDIT :::::: Just read the blurb on the link I sent. Yes, it fits the DF 140 :-)
Products
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23 April 2018, 09:18
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset
Boat name: Seabadger 2
Make: Delta / Ribcraft 6.8
Length: 7m +
Engine: Various
MMSI: -
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 743
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Likewise my boat is elsewhere but in the attached photo you cans see my 40mm UPVC pipe support and the lower ram body / ram cap is significantly larger - perhaps closer to 60mm diameter. My engine year is 2002 - not sure if they have changed the trim rams since, but doubt they would have changed much..?
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23 April 2018, 09:22
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cheltenham
Make: Marex
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 351
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I don't know the Suzi DF140 but wonder if this Yamaha engine support would work?
Yamaha MAR-MTSPT-YM-10 Outboard Motor Trailer Support
while looking for this link I came across this, I've not seen it before and have no idea if it works or is available:-
https://www.lock-n-haul.com/lnhvmax.html
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You Can't cross an Ocean unless you have lost site of shore.
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23 April 2018, 09:26
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Acharacle
Boat name: Iolar
Make: Redbay
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF175
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diver 1
Likewise my boat is elsewhere but in the attached photo you cans see my 40mm UPVC pipe support and the lower ram body / ram cap is significantly larger - perhaps closer to 60mm diameter. My engine year is 2002 - not sure if they have changed the trim rams since, but doubt they would have changed much..?
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Prolly right: I'm kinda making it up by extrapolating from the 16mm diameter of the ram and even that's just from memory. [emoji57]
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23 April 2018, 10:41
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: Excel Chalanger
Make: Highfield 380 Excel
Length: 4m +
Engine: 25 Yamaha 25Suzuki
MMSI: 235919522
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 601
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Suzuki makes proper stops for the rams contact your local dealer
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23 April 2018, 11:17
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset
Boat name: Seabadger 2
Make: Delta / Ribcraft 6.8
Length: 7m +
Engine: Various
MMSI: -
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliee
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Haha awesome, that looks very similar to my UPVC pipe just with a Yam badge stuck on it!! Perhaps I should go into business!
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23 April 2018, 12:03
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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Can you not cut a keel roller vertically in half and a bit of Velcro strap to keep it closed if your trim rams are not open?
I have 2 trim rams and 1 tilt, I put a pair of keel rollers on the trim rams and tilt down until I hit them.
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23 April 2018, 12:31
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Acharacle
Boat name: Iolar
Make: Redbay
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF175
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xk59D
Can you not cut a keel roller vertically in half and a bit of Velcro strap to keep it closed if your trim rams are not open?
I have 2 trim rams and 1 tilt, I put a pair of keel rollers on the trim rams and tilt down until I hit them.
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Yeah I saw a previous post of yours about that, but it didn't look to me like there would be enough clearance around the ram for a keel roller with a big enough bore. Did you use one with a flared end?
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23 April 2018, 12:32
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Acharacle
Boat name: Iolar
Make: Redbay
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF175
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Highland Haggis
Suzuki makes proper stops for the rams contact your local dealer
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That's interesting. Do you have a link?
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23 April 2018, 12:38
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Gurney
Yeah I saw a previous post of yours about that, but it didn't look to me like there would be enough clearance around the ram for a keel roller with a big enough bore. Did you use one with a flared end?
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I don't know what length I have but it is this type
https://www.fieldfare.co.uk/maypole-...xoCqWkQAvD_BwE
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23 April 2018, 15:11
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Chesterfield
Boat name: Sea Quell
Make: Picton Cobra
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 4 Stroke
MMSI: 235038298
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,095
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Dan - you can have one of mine for just the postage £. If interested I will send the one I shortened slightly (20mm) so the outboard sits slightly lower/closer to the transom and if you are happy with it, drop a donation to the RNLI or MacMillan
To use, place over either of the two rams and lower the O/B until the rubber nose compresses slightly, job done :-)
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23 April 2018, 16:05
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diver 1
I have a DF140 and this is my method:
Firstly tilt the engine to a position you are happy to tow with without risk to the skeg hitting the ground. Measure from the top of the two trim rams to the respective trim stops on the underside of the leg.
From a length of 32mm UPVC waste pipe cut two sections to this measurement.
Repeat the above from a length of 40mm UPVC waste pipe
Using a tube of Puraflex or Sikaflex smother the outside of the small tube with this and insert into the larger tube. Force as much sikaflex into the annulus between the two pipes as you can. Repeat this with the other two sections of pipe you have cut. Allow to set.
Tilt the engine up further and slide the pipes over each of the trim pistons. Tilt the engine back down until the leg weight is transferred 50/50 between the tilt ram and the two UPVC pipes.
Note I tried this with just single sections of 32mm UPVC but found they were too weak. Gluing the inner tube to the outer tube makes them a lot stronger. I can show you these tubes at Easdale if this doesn't make sense.
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Dan, if you don't get sorted, I have the prototype for the one I made kicking around in the shed. It's a bit rough & ready but you can have it for a donation to the RNLI. I'm down for the Skerries weekend, so could bring it then.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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24 April 2018, 10:30
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Acharacle
Boat name: Iolar
Make: Redbay
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki DF175
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
Dan, if you don't get sorted, I have the prototype for the one I made kicking around in the shed. It's a bit rough & ready but you can have it for a donation to the RNLI. I'm down for the Skerries weekend, so could bring it then.
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Thanks Dave. I'd love it. (Rough and ready is my middle name )
Still don't understand what happened to the other one; I had it when we launched and by the time we got back I couldn't find it. Very odd as it's not the sort of thing you'd lose down the back of the sofa.
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28 April 2018, 06:35
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Swindon
Boat name: Ballistic
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 250 Yam 15
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 224
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Lots of conflicting views on this topic. I recommend keeping engine as high as possible so weight is forward on main hinge. Lowering for something like mywedge can mean you transfer more weight lower down. I'd recommend keep fully raised with block of wood under main hinge purely to protect against hydraulic failure. Pretty sure suzuki changed their advice to tow fully raised as more balanced. Some manuals will be wrong so check with dealer/service agent advise for your version.
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28 April 2018, 08:57
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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The engine spends its life mostly at positive trim, won't damage a thing towing it close to that for me. If the transom or engine can't handle being towed then it certainly won't handle coming off waves, landings etc.
However, if you have a link to Suzuki saying above I would be interested to read it?
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