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23 November 2017, 23:00
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#21
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thame
Boat name: Free-Flow
Make: Shearwater 6.8
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki 175
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 318
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Thanks for the advice guys. I might have a play with the Ford one in any case, to see how difficult the circuit bodge is.
Diver - have you had it out on the water at all, or run it on the muffs?
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23 November 2017, 23:37
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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i found the post with piccy btw of the real vs cheap one-
https://www.thehulltruth.com/10667813-post143.html
unless you are trolling a lot i don't see a problem using the cheap one and keeping another spare, you can change them while on water if need be.
btw, have you tried cleaning it with some brake cleaner? that normally does the trick if you are not getting codes?
if you do replace it you may need to do the reset procedure for the iac to calibrate it.
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25 November 2017, 10:28
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#23
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset
Boat name: Seabadger 2
Make: Delta / Ribcraft 6.8
Length: 7m +
Engine: Various
MMSI: -
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 743
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Ran fine on muffs - I have not messed about making up a permanent wiring connection though as I found at this time the rough running was due to a faulty spark plug. I have kept the Ford IAC in its box as a spare.
Xk59D - two things - firstly your advice relates to a DF200 engine which has a totally different IAC as far as I am aware, and secondly I totally agree with your comment regarding cheap aftermarket parts, however the part I refer to it a genuine Ford part which I happened to find at a very good price although even at RRP from a Ford Dealership I'm sure will be considerably cheaper than the Suzuki Outboard Dealer RRP. The parts appear in every way identical even the weight is the same. It is a faff having to mess around with changing the electrical plug on wiring loom though.
I can't vouch for any cheap online copies of the genuine Ford part I suggested.
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25 November 2017, 12:05
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,934
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I never meant to question your ford part. Sorry if it came accross that way.
The lac for the 140 is different correct.
The genuine Suzuki part is silly money no matter the engine though, worth a punt and keeping a spare imo
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26 November 2017, 23:22
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#25
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thame
Boat name: Free-Flow
Make: Shearwater 6.8
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki 175
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 318
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Thanks guys, and i think you are right - worth a try. The Suzuki iac is around £250.
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05 November 2023, 19:24
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: york
Boat name: the buoys
Make: seahog
Length: 3m +
Engine: mariner outboard
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 20
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im having trouble with my 2011 DF140 it wont start unless i use the warm up lever ive been told its the ( Idle control valve) ive been reading the thread with Interest the is a range of ford cars fitted with part no (9F715-AA) ive not stripped my engine yet but im thinking somewhere in the ford range will be the same plug fitting as the Suzuki could be on the ford Ka Focus or Galaxy suzuki are wanting £408 plus £8.6p for the gasket ford price on evilbay is less than £ 25 if i have to splash the cash on a gasket so be it tight lines Alain
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05 November 2023, 21:39
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#27
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willybendit
im having trouble with my 2011 DF140 it wont start unless i use the warm up lever ive been told its the ( Idle control valve) ive been reading the thread with Interest the is a range of ford cars fitted with part no (9F715-AA) ive not stripped my engine yet but im thinking somewhere in the ford range will be the same plug fitting as the Suzuki could be on the ford Ka Focus or Galaxy suzuki are wanting £408 plus £8.6p for the gasket ford price on evilbay is less than £ 25 if i have to splash the cash on a gasket so be it tight lines Alain
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Afaik (and I’m willing to be corrected) you shouldn’t have a “warm up lever” on a DF140. All the choke & starting malarkey should be handled by the efi system. I have binnacle mounted throttle & there isn’t a warm up/choke lever.
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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05 November 2023, 22:00
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
Afaik (and I’m willing to be corrected) you shouldn’t have a “warm up lever” on a DF140. All the choke & starting malarkey should be handled by the efi system. I have binnacle mounted throttle & there isn’t a warm up/choke lever.
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the side mount controls have a "fast idle" lever, assuming thats what he means?
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There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
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06 November 2023, 09:43
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#29
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thame
Boat name: Free-Flow
Make: Shearwater 6.8
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki 175
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willybendit
im having trouble with my 2011 DF140 it wont start unless i use the warm up lever ive been told its the ( Idle control valve) ive been reading the thread with Interest the is a range of ford cars fitted with part no (9F715-AA) ive not stripped my engine yet but im thinking somewhere in the ford range will be the same plug fitting as the Suzuki could be on the ford Ka Focus or Galaxy suzuki are wanting £408 plus £8.6p for the gasket ford price on evilbay is less than £ 25 if i have to splash the cash on a gasket so be it tight lines Alain
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Re the thread on my engine above, I bought a new (Suzuki) IAC, but it turned out the problem was not the IAC - it was the engine management system, and needed it's 'brains' re-flashing. Barry Windsor did the work for me. I am sure I still have the replacement IAC in the garage somewhere if you are interested. I have sold the boat so I have no use for it now.
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06 November 2023, 09:48
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#30
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A1an
the side mount controls have a "fast idle" lever, assuming thats what he means?
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What does it do? Does it just up the idle revs? If so I can’t see how that would affect starting, unless the TPS was out of kilter.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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06 November 2023, 11:19
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#31
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Thame
Boat name: Free-Flow
Make: Shearwater 6.8
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzuki 175
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 318
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BTW - as an aside, it seems Barry Windsor's company, Windsor Marine Services, has disappeared. Does anyone know what has happened to it? Barry was a great guy.
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07 November 2023, 19:47
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#32
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: york
Boat name: the buoys
Make: seahog
Length: 3m +
Engine: mariner outboard
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 20
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engine runs on the muffs but not when its on a mooring as i think the water pressure kills the engine you have to use the fast idle ( warm up leaver ) on a fast tick over or the engine cuts out
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