Df140 iac?

[Bucksribster]

Looking for an IAC for my 2005 Suzuki DF140. Does anyone know how much they cost new, and any suggestions for a used one? I have seen some on ebay, but they all seem to be in the USA. Thanks.

[jeffstevens763@g]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/19231938524...1899693&crdt=0

[diver 1]

Firstly are you sure yours is knackered - they can be cleaned up and freed off nicely with some carb cleaner and a small stiff paint brush also you can do an electrical resistance test between the terminals to check against the value stated in the maintenance manual. If it is knackered I'm sure one of the automotive ones will fit - perhaps a little investment of time and trial and error - possibly take your old unit to an automotive parts centre on a quiet day when its not busy and see if they can match it

For example the ford ones appear very similar. 10 quid on ebay...

TO CLEAR - NEW FUEL PARTS - IDLE CONTROL VALVE - IAV005 | eBay

[Bucksribster]

Thanks Diver 1. I guess the answer is I am not sure, but I have looked at everything else. I have had the IAC out and cleaned it, but I have still had problems after this. As it is an intermittent fault that I cannot replicate on muffs, and it is a 200-mile round trip to get to the sea, I am going through trying to eliminate all the possibilities. I have been towed in by Sea Start once, and am not anxious to repeat the experience! The ford unit does look similar, but the connector is obviously at a different angle.

Jeff Stevens - my thanks to you as well. I have sent a question in to the seller asking how many hours the engine had on it.

I have also asked Windsor Marine how much a new one would be. I will sit down before opening the price email! It annoys me outboard spares are sooooo expensive!

[A1an]

What are the symptoms?

[Bucksribster]

Long and sorry tale, but every so often, the engine will stall, either when throttling up from idle, or throttling down to tickover. It can usually be re-started by pushing the button in and giving it a lot of throttle while turning it on the starter, however it is obviously not ideal, and it can happen at awkward times.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Bucksribster

Long and sorry tale, but every so often, the engine will stall, either when throttling up from idle, or throttling down to tickover. It can usually be re-started by pushing the button in and giving it a lot of throttle while turning it on the starter, however it is obviously not ideal, and it can happen at awkward times.

Any fault codes thrown?

[Pikey Dave]

This might be of help

[A1an]

Originally Posted by Bucksribster

Long and sorry tale, but every so often, the engine will stall, either when throttling up from idle, or throttling down to tickover. It can usually be re-started by pushing the button in and giving it a lot of throttle while turning it on the starter, however it is obviously not ideal, and it can happen at awkward times.

Silly question BUT... have you tried running it with the lid/cowl off?

If so any difference?

[Bucksribster]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Any fault codes thrown?

Hi PD - thanks for the scans of the manual - most useful. I have had the IAC off and cleaned it up. Never tested the resistance, so I'll try that. I do not have the harness or software to download the fault codes, but Barry Windsor gave me the printout when he had it the other week, and there were no fault codes.

I spoke to Barry today. His opinion is that the symptoms are either the IAC or a poor contact on the battery, however I have checked the battery connection before. He has given me a quote for a new IAC.

I think I'll take the IAC out and test the resistance, but probably replace it ian any case. No hurry as I do not really do winter ribbing.

[Bucksribster]

Originally Posted by A1an

Silly question BUT... have you tried running it with the lid/cowl off?

If so any difference?

No, haven't tried this, although I am not sure how it could give the symptoms I see?

[TRevor Lawson]

Re battery connections, dont forget to check the earth point of thr neg terminal
remove bolt and clean up with emery cloth , also check earth connections and mutiplugs on ecu, simon collis has leads and soft ware to check fault codes

[A1an]

Originally Posted by Bucksribster

No, haven't tried this, although I am not sure how it could give the symptoms I see?

Your engine is susceptible to a rotten plug on the engine holder. This plug is a blank for an O2 sensor that was never fitted.

It leaks exhaust gasses in to the cowl area causing running issues. The issues don't become apparent when the hood is off as the engine can breathe fresh air.

If you do look in to it and want to replace said steel blank with an alloy one then give me a shout, I have a spare.


My engine was the same year as yours iirc and there were no problems with corrosion on engine holder.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by A1an

Your engine is susceptible to a rotten plug on the engine holder. This plug is a blank for an O2 sensor that was never fitted.

It leaks exhaust gasses in to the cowl area causing running issues.

If you do look in to it and want to replace said steel blank with an alloy one then give me a shout, I have a spare.

Is this the notorious steel plug in the alloy exhaust manifold fault?

[A1an]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Is this the notorious steel plug in the alloy exhaust manifold fault?

Yep, seems to be more common stateside but I've seen a couple here. On machines as low as 300hrs but there are fish farm boats around these parts with 3k salt water hours on them with no problems.

Lack of use looks to be the major factor.

[Pikey Dave]

Some were rectified under a recall, some keep cropping up on the Suzuki owners forum. Worth checking if it's been done, though I wouldn't want to try extracting one that's been in 12 years[emoji15]

[Bucksribster]

Thanks for the advice guys. Where do I look for this plug?

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Bucksribster

Thanks for the advice guys. Where do I look for this plug?

http://www.fishwrecked.com/forum/suz...-exhaust-issue

[diver 1]

Update - the Ford Idle Air Control Valve IS exactly the same unit as the Suzuki DF140 with the only difference being the electrical 2 pin plug socket. Its very similar but the profile of the plastic housing is different between the Ford and Suzuki outboard version. However I make a temporary bodge circuit and ran the SDS diagnostic software and did IAC checks on both the original Suzuki IAC and the Ford Version and both give same test functions, I then installed the Ford IAC on my engine and tested it running and it was fine.

So in summary, yes, you can potentially save quite a bit of £ if you buy a Ford one (I got a genuine and brand new Ford one (Part Number 9F715-AA) for £8.40 on Ebay) BUT you will need to make up a plug adapter to convert or bridge between the different plugs (only 2 pin so very simple)

[Xk59D]

I've got a spare iac from eBay for my 200 that is plug and play.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Mit...app-cvip-panel

Just to let you know though that the cheap ones are NOT the same as the Suzuki ones, someone in USA forum kindly cut one open and the size of the motor is about double in the genuine item, the cheap ones are just empty plastic inside where the bigger motor would sit. many people use these for a couple of seasons or more though before they let go and just keep cheap ones spare.

Someone on the hull truth found an IAC that was the same for a Mitsubishi with the same part number as the original that has the same motor inside, I think that was about 80 quid. Look on the hull truth for more info as lots of iac failures crop up there due to excessive trolling and I guess they are just a bit crap design wise.