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Old 24 January 2021, 19:56   #21
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Yep 100% agree.... those old 2hp 2-stroke super slim motors sold under various makes would be my choice every time.
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Old 24 January 2021, 22:08   #22
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Yup I have one bullet proof
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Old 27 January 2021, 00:38   #23
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Yep 100% agree.... those old 2hp 2-stroke super slim motors sold under various makes would be my choice every time.
There's a fair bit of choice out there.
Currently looking at a 3.3hp Tohatsu 4 stroke.

Are any of these smaller motors easily uprated?

The main engine is a long shaft, because the aux won't ever plane the boat I'm thinking a short shaft is more suited right?

I was going to buy a bracket that moves up and down, but I'm worried it might rattle or buzz. Is this a concern with them?
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I wouldnt give any of those engines house room (or boat room) I'd rather a 20 year old yam merc tohatsu etc 2-3.5hp lightweight
Agreed. There's a number of YouTube reviews of these Chinese cheapies, I think it may be possible to suffer one or make it work, but they seem so feeble comparing performance to better makes with the same power rating.
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Old 27 January 2021, 05:54   #24
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I'm thinking of buying a 55lb thrust electric auxiliary as backup motor. My thinking is it would be stored away and only mounted when needed, I'd probably have to extend the cable but connect it directly to the battery.

Are these credible? I'm only after displacement speed but how long/how far is realistic presuming the 110ah battery is fully charged before the main engine fails? Would it be able to overcome a 4 or 5 knot current?

Anyone else done this in preference to a small fixed petrol outboard?

Bonus: I could make a transom bracket and also use it on the kayak.
In a 4 or 5 knot current, you'll be going backwards. I don't remember who said 55pounds of thrust is equal to 2.5hp, but that is definitely false. Assuming 100% efficiency to keep it simple, 1hp=745.7 watts. If you're operating a 12v system, this means you're looking at roughly 62amps (745.7/12) to obtain a single horsepower. Minnkota tells us the amp draw on 12v motors of 55 pounds or less is roughly 1 amp per pound of thrust, so in this case 55 amps=55 pounds of thrust. A 55 amp draw couldn't quite make 1hp, even at 100% efficiency, and since 100% efficiency is a pipe dream, you're actually looking at less than that.

Moreover, ALL trolling motors are designed to push you at 5 knots in perfect conditions. Bigger will push more weight, and may even be more efficient at doing so, but it will not move you faster that 5kts with the OEM prop. An "electric outboard" is a different species. These are attempting to make the transition into primary power sources, but the efficiency is far from there, because a typical deep cell battery contains perhaps 10% of the power of the equivalent power of gasoline per pound, if you're lucky.

How long will it last is relatively straight forward. 110ah will get you just that, 110 amp hours. At "wot" with a 55 amp trolling motor, you'd get 2 hours. However, ah assumes a constant draw over 20 hours, and if you suck the energy out faster than that, you lose efficiency, so you're probably looking at closer to an hour and a half. You could combat this loss of energy with an appropriately large battery pack, but who's going to carry 700 pounds of batteries and cables on board to reach the 1,100ah battery storage that would be required to draw 55 amps for 20 hours?

And this is with a battery in new condition, that hasn't been abused in the precisely fashion described in the last paragraph. You'll find that 110ah battery won't be holding that much power for long. Also consider you'll knock 75% or more off the life of the battery itself, if you routinely draw it until dead.

Quite simply, you can get 3 times the power out of a 2.5hp gas motor, and likely get more range than even the 1,100ah example out of less pounds of gasoline than a single 110ah battery weighs. Throw in the weight of the motor, and you're still WAY ahead. I don't think my 1984 6hp Johnson 2S weighs more than a typical 110ah battery. And it would probably get you your 5kts well short of full throttle.

P.s. The only reason I know this stuff, is I desperately wanted to go electric on my 3M SIB, but there's just no reasonable way to cost-effectively get the range I wanted, even at a snail's pace. FWIW, I'm still going to pack a tiny trolling motor (16 or 18 pounds, can't remember which), and have ordered the components to build a 200ah battery pack that should come in under 40lbs (lithium)... but that's not so much for an emergency at sea, per se (I'm 5 miles from Long Beach/Los Angeles Harbor and do plan on hitting the seas), rather it's to creep around in near silence beyond some tunes under the stars without disturbing a soul, and to retain the ability to drop into waters that don't allow gas powered craft.
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Old 27 January 2021, 12:53   #25
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In a 4 or 5 knot current, you'll be going backwards. I don't remember who said 55pounds of thrust is equal to 2.5hp, but that is definitely false.

Moreover, ALL trolling motors are designed to push you at 5 knots in perfect conditions.

P.s. The only reason I know this stuff, is I desperately wanted to go electric on my 3M SIB, but there's just no reasonable way to cost-effectively get the range I wanted, even at a snail's pace.
Picked out a few quotes but the entire post is great info I've not seen anywhere before - thank you!!

I've abandoned the electric aux idea, also the nasty Chinese outboards. Trying to decide between new DF 2.5 Suzuki or slightly used 3.5hp Tohatsu right now.
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Old 27 January 2021, 14:26   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Limecc View Post
Picked out a few quotes but the entire post is great info I've not seen anywhere before - thank you!!

I've abandoned the electric aux idea, also the nasty Chinese outboards. Trying to decide between new DF 2.5 Suzuki or slightly used 3.5hp Tohatsu right now.
go 3.5 tohatsu limecc the difference is night and day between the hp's
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Old 28 January 2021, 06:39   #27
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I've abandoned the electric aux idea, also the nasty Chinese outboards. Trying to decide between new DF 2.5 Suzuki or slightly used 3.5hp Tohatsu right now.
Never went under 6hp myself, so I can't help you there. But I'd wager you'll miss even that one hp difference, though neither is likely to satisfy unless you never plan on leaving the no wake zone.

If weight is the big issue, maybe consider reducing the carry time? I added a pair of high quality fold down wheels that swing under the boat to leave a tough weight so low, I can tip it up or down and it will stay, couldn't be more than few pounds. Doesn't even matter if it's the 6hp or the 15hp, the balance is that good. I inflate boat, right next to the motorcycle I carry it on. Then add the motor right there. Load her up, tie her down, park the bike, then wheel the boat into the water. Once I'm satisfied the motor is running fine, I push off, fold the wheels into the up position where they hang behind your boat instead of dripping into it, because of the bend. Could shed the weight of the wheels by simply removing a pin at this stage, but I doubt I'll need to with the 15hp ever, or the 6hp 1up.
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Old 28 January 2021, 07:24   #28
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Interesting to see this debate still rambling on!

Occumbill's comprehensive answer is spot on too.

I used to have a Tohatsu 3.5hp 2-stroke engine on a Zodiac Pro. Compact, yes, but the saddle bracket and build would suit a smaller boat. Now I have bullet proof Mariner 4hp, but if. I could would have had a Tohatsu 5hp. I know it's all belt and braces, but that's what an auxilliary us for.

Someone mentioned adjustable brackets. Absolute nightmare. The one I had from Plastimo rattled like a Lada on a frosty morning. Fixed bracket or on the transom is the way to go.

Finally, when the engine isn't in use, secure with a ratchet strap tilted up. There's a lot of vibration at the transom if you're going along at WOT. I tether mine around the engine block to the transom knee.
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Old 28 January 2021, 14:57   #29
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go 3.5 tohatsu limecc the difference is night and day between the hp's
Took your advice Jeff and have a mint Tohatsu 3.5hp for £450. I'm going to make my own custom bracket for the transom.

My only dilemma now is whether to rebadge it as Suzuki so it matches the main engine
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Old 28 January 2021, 18:54   #30
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Took your advice Jeff and have a mint Tohatsu 3.5hp for £450. I'm going to make my own custom bracket for the transom.

My only dilemma now is whether to rebadge it as Suzuki so it matches the main engine
Nice one, I would leave it I have a merc at the side of my Suzuki and don't notice to be honest. having said that messing with boat related stuff is the only fix we can get at the moment
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