Engine

[chrishowden]

What part of the engine is the part that has rust on it in the picture???

[chrishowden]

sorry pictures weren't uploading will try later

[chrishowden]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57706631@N04/5310950290/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57706631@N04/5310946244/

[Chris]

Originally Posted by chrishowden

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57706631@N04/5310950290/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/57706631@N04/5310946244/

looks like the steering arm and top mount.

[wolfie]

Originally Posted by Chris

looks like the steering arm and top mount.

i concur, looks like steering arm to me

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by chrishowden

What part of the engine is the part that has rust on it in the picture???

Out of interest, what engine is this? Unusual to see as much suface corrosion there. I'd put money on the sacrifical zinc anodes not being replaced as a possible cause.

[Hightower]

I had a Yam 80 that rusted in exactly the same place. Must be something to do with the electrolytic action running though the steering components?

[MOS]

Originally Posted by chrishowden

What part of the engine is the part that has rust on it in the picture???

It's the steering arm pivot and top mount bracket. It's not in the sacrificial anode circuit as it is not Aluminum but made from cast iron for strength reasons. It will take ages to rust, so no harm and nothing to be worried about... For cosmetic purposes you could wire-brush, jet wash and re-spray with Outboard paint (YMM-30400-GM Yamaha paint code - as it looks like a Yamy?)

It also Looks like you're bottom cowling is not being full earthed to the anode circuit properly and is why you are getting bubbles / flakey paint... It could just be the age of the motor though...? Or old Anodes... Check all anodes

[chrishowden]

how much would this cost to repair

[MOS]

Originally Posted by chrishowden

how much would this cost to repair

Depends on what you wanted repairing?

The swivel bracket can be repaired / painted in situ. To replace it is a massive job of removing the powerhead, lower cowling, top and bottom mounts (which break/snap if old) Waste of cash for you!

It shouldn't be too expensive for someone to rub all the old rust away, clean and paint with a good marine paint. - As long as they do a good job; £40/50 Max!

For the lower cowling (tray) I am guessing that the engine you have is an F40...? If so I have looked at the WM and It doesn't look like tray is earthed to the block... Maybe Yamaha decided not too... Take the hood off and have a look around the base of the block to see if there is a black lead solely running from the engine block to the tray...

[chrishowden]

thanks for the advice

[Searider]

Originally Posted by spartacus

Out of interest, what engine is this? Unusual to see as much suface corrosion there. I'd put money on the sacrifical zinc anodes not being replaced as a possible cause.

Anodes only work under water!

[chewy]

Originally Posted by Searider

Anodes only work under water!

True, but if the anodes are shot it won't matter. The anodes protect the whole engine not just the underwater parts.

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by Searider

Anodes only work under water!

Sort-of-true. They'll work as long as they're in contact with the water.

Don't know about the F40 (if that's what''s in question), but the F115 has a could of anodes in the powerhead that are in contact with the circulated cooling water in the water jacket.

They will, however, only protect metal bits that are electrically connected to them, hence the little black grounding wires between the various engine and drive pieces.


jky

[ADI]

Its a Honda is it not ? Its a solid part, but rub it down yourself treat it with some Hammerite Kurust or similar, then paint it with topcoat.

[Searider]

Originally Posted by chewy

The anodes protect the whole engine not just the underwater parts.

No.

An anode will only protect a part it is electrically bonded to and only if it and the part are both immersed in water.

Anyway, the steering arm is a solid casting and just needs some paint. It's not easy to get to to paint though!

[9D280]

My old Yam 55 died from 2 things:

1) the anodes had all but dissappeared
2) the earth strap between leg & head had snapped, hence the cyl block turned to shortbread. Leg etc was id reasonable nick, just a bummer about the top half!

The tiller arm is a pain to get in to reapint. one option is use emery paper strip for sanding machines & somewhere I've seen small wire brushes, then spray it.