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31 December 2010, 14:36
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: Viking
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 90hp
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 203
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Engine
What part of the engine is the part that has rust on it in the picture???
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31 December 2010, 14:37
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: Viking
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 90hp
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 203
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sorry pictures weren't uploading will try later
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31 December 2010, 23:02
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: Viking
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 90hp
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 203
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01 January 2011, 01:43
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrishowden
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looks like the steering arm and top mount.
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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01 January 2011, 11:50
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Telford
Boat name: ?
Make: Searider
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris
looks like the steering arm and top mount.
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i concur, looks like steering arm to me
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01 January 2011, 13:22
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrishowden
What part of the engine is the part that has rust on it in the picture???
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Out of interest, what engine is this? Unusual to see as much suface corrosion there. I'd put money on the sacrifical zinc anodes not being replaced as a possible cause.
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01 January 2011, 13:57
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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I had a Yam 80 that rusted in exactly the same place. Must be something to do with the electrolytic action running though the steering components?
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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01 January 2011, 16:13
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brighton, Chichester
Length: no boat
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 37
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Rust
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrishowden
What part of the engine is the part that has rust on it in the picture???
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It's the steering arm pivot and top mount bracket. It's not in the sacrificial anode circuit as it is not Aluminum but made from cast iron for strength reasons. It will take ages to rust, so no harm and nothing to be worried about... For cosmetic purposes you could wire-brush, jet wash and re-spray with Outboard paint (YMM-30400-GM Yamaha paint code - as it looks like a Yamy?)
It also Looks like you're bottom cowling is not being full earthed to the anode circuit properly and is why you are getting bubbles / flakey paint... It could just be the age of the motor though...? Or old Anodes... Check all anodes
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01 January 2011, 19:03
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: Viking
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 90hp
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 203
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how much would this cost to repair
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01 January 2011, 19:50
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brighton, Chichester
Length: no boat
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrishowden
how much would this cost to repair
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Depends on what you wanted repairing?
The swivel bracket can be repaired / painted in situ. To replace it is a massive job of removing the powerhead, lower cowling, top and bottom mounts (which break/snap if old) Waste of cash for you!
It shouldn't be too expensive for someone to rub all the old rust away, clean and paint with a good marine paint. - As long as they do a good job; £40/50 Max!
For the lower cowling (tray) I am guessing that the engine you have is an F40...? If so I have looked at the WM and It doesn't look like tray is earthed to the block... Maybe Yamaha decided not too... Take the hood off and have a look around the base of the block to see if there is a black lead solely running from the engine block to the tray...
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01 January 2011, 20:23
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: Viking
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 90hp
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 203
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thanks for the advice
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01 January 2011, 20:31
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: SMH Rib / War Shot
Make: Ribtec / Scorpion
Length: 4m +
Engine: 100hp Yam/150hp opt
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus
Out of interest, what engine is this? Unusual to see as much suface corrosion there. I'd put money on the sacrifical zinc anodes not being replaced as a possible cause.
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Anodes only work under water!
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01 January 2011, 22:06
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Searider
Anodes only work under water!
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True, but if the anodes are shot it won't matter. The anodes protect the whole engine not just the underwater parts.
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03 January 2011, 17:15
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#14
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Searider
Anodes only work under water!
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Sort-of-true. They'll work as long as they're in contact with the water.
Don't know about the F40 (if that's what''s in question), but the F115 has a could of anodes in the powerhead that are in contact with the circulated cooling water in the water jacket.
They will, however, only protect metal bits that are electrically connected to them, hence the little black grounding wires between the various engine and drive pieces.
jky
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03 January 2011, 20:22
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: scotland
Make: a few
Length: 6m +
Engine: outboard / inboard
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 68
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Its a Honda is it not ? Its a solid part, but rub it down yourself treat it with some Hammerite Kurust or similar, then paint it with topcoat.
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04 January 2011, 00:26
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: SMH Rib / War Shot
Make: Ribtec / Scorpion
Length: 4m +
Engine: 100hp Yam/150hp opt
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy
The anodes protect the whole engine not just the underwater parts.
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No.
An anode will only protect a part it is electrically bonded to and only if it and the part are both immersed in water.
Anyway, the steering arm is a solid casting and just needs some paint. It's not easy to get to to paint though!
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04 January 2011, 09:21
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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My old Yam 55 died from 2 things:
1) the anodes had all but dissappeared
2) the earth strap between leg & head had snapped, hence the cyl block turned to shortbread. Leg etc was id reasonable nick, just a bummer about the top half!
The tiller arm is a pain to get in to reapint. one option is use emery paper strip for sanding machines & somewhere I've seen small wire brushes, then spray it.
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