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Old 04 May 2004, 22:36   #1
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Port Logan
Boat name: Red Fox
Make: Zodiac Pro 500
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 70hp
MMSI: 232004329
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Posts: 323
Engine chock idea

In a previous thread I suggested the idea of supporting the engine on a cut down rubber roller. This would be cut to go over the hydraulic shaft in a U shape. The engine could then be powered down onto this and therefore the engine tilt bracket would not need to be used (as this method is not recommended in the handbooks). The engine would therefore travel more upright on the trailer. The chock could be cut to the lengh desired so that the engine was clear of the trailer light board. What do you think? Would it work? Would it be better than using the tilt brackets?
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Old 06 May 2004, 15:57   #2
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Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Falkirk
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Make: Narwhal
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Engine: Force 40hp o/b
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Mark,

I've got a spare roller kicking about in the garage - I'll try it and see if it works. I also have the advantage of being able to copy the 'trailering device' that came with my motor (it works in exactly the same way) - so I can see how big the 'v' slot has gotta be. I'll let you know how it comes out.

When are you next at NEB?

Bill
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Old 06 May 2004, 21:01   #3
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Not a good Idea guys!!!

Follow Manufacturers advice on this one and go with the locks on the Brkt. If you don't you could distort the Trim/Tilt cylinder and that'll cost you dear. Better a peice of wood between Brkt and Leg if you can't lock outboard in tilt position.

Andy
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Old 06 May 2004, 21:36   #4
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Boat name: Red Fox
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Length: 4m +
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Hi Bill, Probably Half term for a couple of days...let you know nearer the time.
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Old 07 May 2004, 10:47   #5
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
Not a good Idea guys!!!

Follow Manufacturers advice on this one and go with the locks on the Brkt. If you don't you could distort the Trim/Tilt cylinder and that'll cost you dear. Better a peice of wood between Brkt and Leg if you can't lock outboard in tilt position.

Andy

Andy,

Pray tell why my motor came supplied with 'trailering device' (wording straight from manufacturers handbook) which is almost exactly what Red Fox describes. It is just too short to give me the ground clearance I need with only 8" wheels on my trailer. (Some of us are not blessed with the wherewithal to afford a large boat).
Other people have stated that they tow with the engine fully up on the hydraulics - surely that is more likely to put stress on the T/T cylinder, seeing as its unsupported. Any additional support can surely only be better - not worse.
I've always meant to make a copy of my 'trailering device' and to fit both to my outboard when towing to give the skeg ground clearance, and Red Fox's idea of adapting a roller gives me a chance to try it out easily.
Of course if you have already tried it and know that it causes problems please let us know.

Whoops - just re-read this and it comes over like I'm having a dig at Andy - not so - no offence intended - I just can't be bothered to retype it all. I'll make a copy 'trailering device' and post pics of the copy and original, and let you know how they work out.
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Old 07 May 2004, 11:42   #6
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Country: UK - England
Town: Whitstable
Boat name: Tango
Make: Avon and Narwhal2.4m
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60HP Yamaha
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 966
Guys i'm about to manufacture something along the lines that you have all suggested, till now i've been using the brackets supplied with the engine that hold the engine up whilst in transit and up until recently they had worked fine, but recently they started to break, first one side and just after repair the other side has snapped off now i only have one side and the hydrolic ram holding the engine up in transit..... so i was thinking along the lines of a lump of wood tied into place between the engine and mounting and dropping the engine onto it to take the weight whilst in transit, but now after reading your ideas the chock around hydrolic piston sounds a better and easier option, nothing worse than doing a Phil Davies and spending an hour getting the boat road ready after a hard days boating
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Old 07 May 2004, 19:14   #7
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Length: 3m +
Engine: petrol 15/3.5
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My engine is pretty new(18 hours) and at the 10 hour service,I pointed out to the dealer that the stop clip was starting to wear the mounting bracket,he told me that it was really only for boats left on a mooring and they had seen broken ones,he suggested that I use,the trailering support suggested in the manual or a block of wood,I couldnt get a block of wood to stay in place so today used some 12mm studding covered with plastic pipe,this worked well initially but then I noticed that the thread if the studding had started to mark the outboard bracket through the thick plastic pipe so I will have to find some metal bar of that size.
My engine has only one stop clip,what do others with the yam f100 do?
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