Engine height dilemma - Page 2

sydneyribber · 28 January 2018, 11:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by beamishken

You can get specific props that help induce bow lift it may be worth looking at one of those. Ive no specific experience but I have seen them for sale

Yeah I have been researching on props and had thought that maybe the prop I have is creating too much stern lift. So had considered if a bow lifting prop might be better suited.

I never have an issue getting on plane. It takes absolutely no effort what so ever so happy to sacrifice a little to get the ride I am after.

MatFromPoland · 28 January 2018, 11:24

Mine is Highfield OM540DL.

Transom and engine are XL.
Evinrude 115 HP is max possible for this boat according to boat plate.

Prop Steel 3 blades Viper 19p for lakes and Rebel 19p for offshore.
We are 5 people and I observe that Rebel which has bigger diameter than Viper is too big for 5 people family so bought used 17p Rebel from US.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I hope that in Australia you can ask dealer to check for prop and maybe they have some DEMO props ? Not possible in Poland

Sjipyard who sell me Etec and install on Highfield made some tests after 1 y of the use and advice is that this flat end behave differently than deep V to the end and they suggest lower engine position

MatFromPoland · 28 January 2018, 11:33

Viper prop is bow lifting - easy ride, good acceleration but not so good offshore for waves.

For offshore and waves much better is Rebel which has bigger diameter and it is not "bow lifter" like Viper

My personal observation on mine Highfield (more than 3000 km in the Greece)

Xk59D · 28 January 2018, 11:37

Don't touch the prop till you find out the revs.

Engine looks too high to me.

sydneyribber · 28 January 2018, 11:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by MatFromPoland

Viper prop is bow lifting - easy ride, good acceleration but not so good offshore for waves.

For offshore and waves much better is Rebel which has bigger diameter and it is not "bow lifter" like Viper

My personal observation on mine Highfield (more than 3000 km in the Greece)

Can I ask why you thought the bow lifting prop was not as good for offshore use.

I only ask as my current observations on my 640 is that I am far too bow heavy in bigger seas.

sydneyribber · 28 January 2018, 11:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xk59D

Don't touch the prop till you find out the revs.

Engine looks too high to me.

Posted revs earlier. I was pretty much maxing out at 6000

sydneyribber · 28 January 2018, 11:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by sydneyribber

Posted revs earlier. I was pretty much maxing out at 6000

Suzuki site states full throttle revs 5500-6100

Xk59D · 28 January 2018, 11:40

In which case the prop is fine obviously, i would drop the engine. It looks quite high on the side on pics.

As I said earlier, Suzuki like to run deep and I assume it is because of the huge prop diameter they run.

sydneyribber · 28 January 2018, 11:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xk59D

In which case the prop is fine, i would drop the engine.

As I said earlier, Suzuki like to run deep and I assume it is because of the huge prop diameter they run.

I think that’s where I’m going to be honest. The Suzuki has no slots so don’t know how keen I am to drop it my self. Will ask around a few dealers tomorrow.

Xk59D · 28 January 2018, 11:47

I lifted mine myself with an engine hoist, it is a pita suzuki don't do the slots thing on some or all engines? otherwise the jockey wheel on trailer would do it.

If you don't have an engine hoist then a shop will probably charge an hours labour to do it.

beerbelly · 28 January 2018, 12:22

a frame made out of scaffolding a bit like a childs garden swing with a ratchet engine hoist to take the weight of the outboard and wind the jockey wheel down to raise the transom cav plate should be level or just below the planing pad

sydneyribber · 28 January 2018, 12:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by beerbelly

a frame made out of scaffolding a bit like a childs garden swing with a ratchet engine hoist to take the weight of the outboard and wind the jockey wheel down to raise the transom cav plate should be level or just below the planing pad

I had grand ideas today using a few ratchet straps and a pulley off the keep it steady while engine was standing on ground.

I quickly decided that it could be a very very expensive mistake.

sydneyribber · 28 January 2018, 12:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by sydneyribber

I had grand ideas today using a few ratchet straps and a pulley off the keep it steady while engine was standing on ground.

I quickly decided that it could be a very very expensive mistake.

That and the sun was just too bloody intense to be stuck out any longer than 15 mins today.

We have fatal heatwave warnings in Australia at the minute. The only country I’ve lived in where you get burnt on a cloudy day.

I’d normally be one to rub it in but after a 47.3 day last week I’d happily be back in Northern Ireland for a few weeks lol.

jwalker · 28 January 2018, 15:20

You can do a good job of lowering the engine by putting a jack and block of wood under the lower unit to take its weight. Slacken both engine bolts, take the engine weight on the jack and remove one bolt. Lower the jack gently and allow the engine to cant far enough to get a bolt onto the next hole up in the bracket on that side. It may be possible to fit the original bolt if the transom hole has enough clearance, else fit a smaller diameter bolt temporarily. After that you can lower the engine and fit the original bolt into that side. Finally replace original bolt to the previous side if you needed to temporarily use the substitute bolt.

Pikey Dave · 28 January 2018, 16:15

I use the boat "A" frame & a small ratchet hoist to raise & lower my engine.

MatFromPoland · 28 January 2018, 18:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by sydneyribber

Can I ask why you thought the bow lifting prop was not as good for offshore use.

I only ask as my current observations on my 640 is that I am far too bow heavy in bigger seas.

1. Maybe when you lower engine boat be not "bow heavy" ?
2. Bow lifters are usually sensitive to add and remove power. In Viper when I reduce power on waves very often lost slip. Much better Sea keeping on REBEL which is not bow lifter. Mine is lighter so bow lift on waves is not good for me.

Again in Australia shop really should have some demo props.
But like my more experience friends advised - lower engine first and next check what happens. One thing per time

If I be you start even 2 holes down and test and next to 1 hole up.
There have to be thread by Pickey Dave how he made it step by step.
Or you can invest some money - the better behave of the boat is priceless ..

RichardinNZ · 28 January 2018, 20:06

Sydneyribber, I understand where you are coming from regarding the weather. Auckland is not as hot as you but hard to work outside at the moment. Best place to be is out on the water...

sydneyribber · 31 January 2018, 06:37

Ok so engine going in tomorrow morning to get lowered. Not sure should I go down 1 or 2 holes.

I guess it’s a matter of make a decision and take it for a run. But Matt you suggested maybe going down all the way.

Xk59D · 31 January 2018, 08:27

If you go too low you will probably find it leans quite hard to one side, mines certainly did.

I wouldn't go any lower than cav plate level.

sydneyribber · 31 January 2018, 08:55

So I had a try at dropping it by myself and got 2 of the bolts out and struggled with the rest. Nearly got them all but at that point I started to have big concerns about lowering it by myself.

So it’s going in to the local boatyard. Costing me $200, about £130-140 so keen to only do it once if I can.