Engine lock ...

xpertski · 06 October 2018, 22:43

Anyone know the best way to get an engine lock off where a key may have either never been given on purchase of boat or lost? Such a lock is in photo below ... is this the sort of thing a locksmith has a good chance of getting off? Looked for a number on it to check if it’s the type one can go to the lock manufacturer for but no such luck (no brand name on it or number). I know there are other ways such as drilling it or using an angle grinder but thought I would see if anyone here had come across this and what was done.

If a locksmith can get it off guess I just do that then get a new lock and keep the keys [emoji23]

Thanks!

Xk59D · 06 October 2018, 22:45

Grind the bolt head off the engine side is what outboard shops commonly do, 2 min job if grinder can get in bud.

xpertski · 06 October 2018, 22:46

Would that be risky i.e a bit close to the engine bracket though?

Xk59D · 06 October 2018, 22:48

It is no worse than grinding anything else off if you are comfortable, if not your local outboard place will have it off in minutes.

xpertski · 06 October 2018, 23:06

This is the other side, the nut should just come off but I guess it’s how to pull the bolt out

Xk59D · 06 October 2018, 23:20

Grind nut off and push bolt and lock through, easy job matey

beerbelly · 06 October 2018, 23:26

excuse my ignorance but shouldn't the lock be on the nut what use is it on the bolt. oh and I once removed one of the ones where a stainless sleeve just spins around the nut with a pair of stilsons as the salt water had corroded it onto the nut

xpertski · 06 October 2018, 23:36

Good question ... I don’t know! It’s the way Humber installed it ... that’s what I was thinking in terms of undoing the nut, can’t see anything on there stopping that. Then either turning (using a plumbing clasping tool or similar) the bolt to come out the side where the lock is? That’s if my grip can get onto it tight enough, imagine it’s pretty fixed on!

beamishken · 07 October 2018, 00:07

If that not wont unscrew its a 2 min job with a thin disk in a grinder then just punch the bolt through

Last Tango · 07 October 2018, 12:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by beamishken

If that not wont unscrew its a 2 min job with a thin disk in a grinder then just punch the bolt through

+1

Had to take mine off like that.....staggered how easy it was to cut.

Davie · 07 October 2018, 12:24

Get another pair of nuts and lock them together at end of thread. This will come off easy. Grinder would be last resort.

Xk59D · 07 October 2018, 12:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davie

Get another pair of nuts and lock them together at end of thread. This will come off easy. Grinder would be last resort.

Good point well made sir, double nut on end and wind it off.

Orwell boy · 07 October 2018, 13:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davie

Get another pair of nuts and lock them together at end of thread. This will come off easy. Grinder would be last resort.

Thats the best way forward in my opinion too ,no risk of engine with grinder marks ,which if i went too view to purchase i would ask " where did you pinch that from then ? "

xpertski · 07 October 2018, 15:08

Haha yes indeed! It’s as I’m selling it that I need to get it off so would need to avoid marks! I’ll give the double nut idea a go . Cheers all!

Pikey Dave · 07 October 2018, 15:56

“IF” that was fitted by Humber, they need a shake, that should be the other way around & a form G stainless washer against the engine bracket. Typical Humber

xpertski · 07 October 2018, 16:25

Haha thanks Dave - if I didn’t have the receipts to prove I would question that myself! They put the whole package together in 2004. Wouldn’t have been hard for them to use a stainless washer would it!

Pikey Dave · 07 October 2018, 17:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by xpertski

.....Wouldn’t have been hard for them to use a stainless washer would it!

Absolutely, but then again, this is the same company that puts pics of brand new boats leaving the factory, with ratchet straps over the tubes.

Tim M · 09 October 2018, 16:39

This lock is VERY easy to get off if you’ve lost the key. Remove the red plastic cover. Underneath you’ll find a tiny brass lock barrel. Drill it out. The inner part of the lock then slides out of the outer part allowing you access to the nut (or bolt head as may be the case here!). You can buy a new barrel for less than £5 on eBay - just search for “alko hitch lock barrel” - yup it’s the same as the barrel used in a lot of Alko trailer hitches. Putting it all back together is just the reverse of the above, with the new barrel just sliding in where the old one was.

Maximus · 10 October 2018, 17:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim M

This lock is VERY easy to get off if you’ve lost the key. Remove the red plastic cover. Underneath you’ll find a tiny brass lock barrel. Drill it out. The inner part of the lock then slides out of the outer part allowing you access to the nut (or bolt head as may be the case here!). You can buy a new barrel for less than £5 on eBay - just search for “alko hitch lock barrel” - yup it’s the same as the barrel used in a lot of Alko trailer hitches. Putting it all back together is just the reverse of the above, with the new barrel just sliding in where the old one was.

I agree...They're basically a Joke...
MAY! stop the opportunist casual theif or slow him up A BIT with a small engine.....Apart from that don't do much apart from keep you're insurance tick box full

....Anything above 100 horses let alone 200+ is quite a lump to remove,and if they are determined enough to lift one of those ...a piddling lock won't stop them.
....More to the point they're nowhere near as strong as a proper High tensile fixing...and IMO no substitute.