Engine servicing advice

Dan Gurney · 28 January 2013, 22:11

Evening all,

I am planning on servicing my Yam 85AET myself once the weather gets a bit warmer. So I', planning to get a kit with new plugs, fuel filter, impellor, and gearbox oil. I'm reasonably adept with the spanners, I used to do the more basic fettling on my bikes ok, so it can't be THAT much more difficult.

My main question is about the oil change: i know I need to pump it in from the bottom and the instructional vids I have seen on YouTube seem to involve a sort of pump attachment which goes on the oil bottle and a tube with a screw fitting on the end to attach to the lower drain hole. But I can't see these for sale at either of the places online that I've seen service kits on sale. Where would I get one?

As far as I can see, again from vids on YouTube, the impellor change should be reasonably simple once you get the lower gearbox off the leg. Are there any common n00b pitfalls I should look out for.

Cheers,

Dan

Smithyyy · 28 January 2013, 22:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clamchowder

Are there any common n00b pitfalls I should look out for.

Don't know your engine, so maybe it doesn't do it, but when you put the lower unit back on, getting the shift shaft rotated a bit so you end up with the gearbox in a different setting (ie forward, neutral or reverse) from the one the gear lever is in. Which gives you an engine that will only run in forward, or backwards, but not both

Don't ask me how I found out about that one....

diesel do · 28 January 2013, 23:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clamchowder

My main question is about the oil change: i know I need to pump it in from the bottom and the instructional vids I have seen on YouTube seem to involve a sort of pump attachment which goes on the oil bottle and a tube with a screw fitting on the end to attach to the lower drain hole. But I can't see these for sale at either of the places online that I've seen service kits on sale. Where would I get one?

Listed just for you ;-)

outboard motor - service lower gear casing - gear oil with pump - Quicksilver | eBay

Locozodiac · 29 January 2013, 13:34

Some tips :

Should grease slightly upper splinned shaft when assembling back, align water pipe for good insertion, rotate flywheel if shaft doesn't want to pop inside crank. Impeller rotates CW, don't forget to attach shaft key.

Although the oil pump works very good, it' s kind of messy, manufacturer should have included a plug to close connector's end and avoid unwanted oil spills. Be aware that the standard connector delivered doesn't fit all engines tails, so probably will need to buy an extra connector that screws on standard one to fit yours.

Happy Boating

Nos4r2 · 29 January 2013, 15:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by diesel do

Listed just for you ;-)

outboard motor - service lower gear casing - gear oil with pump - Quicksilver | eBay

That won't fit the Yam-the threads are wrong. I have both pumps here.

This one will...

Yamaha Yamalube Outboard Gear Oil Pump For 1L Package | eBay

Make sure you use new fibre washers, and if you get the new type of fibre washers (red outside, black line round the rim) retighten them after a couple of hours as they compress slowly. I've had to redo a few that have leaked water in becuase they came loose. It doesn't happen if you retighten them after a settling period.

When you drop the leg, look out for a bit of plastic that may drop out-it keeps the shift rod in alignment. It'll just push back in. Don't buy the 'service kit' either-it's a damn sight cheaper to buy the plugs separately on Ebay or from a bike shop. They should be BR8HS-10 plugs in it.

Dan Gurney · 29 January 2013, 15:23

Thanks for all the advice guys. Need to get it all done before Easter as I'm hoping to head up to Lomond again.

The service kits includes 1ltr of gear oil. Does that sound about right?

Nos4r2 · 29 January 2013, 15:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clamchowder

The service kits includes 1ltr of gear oil. Does that sound about right?

A litre will give you plenty spare afterwards, maybe enough for a 2nd change.

davej · 30 January 2013, 23:29

Hi.

I generally use Key Parts for all my service bits and they supply a Serria adapter that fits the Yam drain thread. This screws onto the standard Merc thread and its soon all in.

What I have found is that the oil goes in much easier if its warm. Just keep it inside before you use it.

All the other advice you have been given is very sound.

Servicing the Yam is really very straighforward, I service our club 115 and I guess its much the same.

Davej

clydeoutboards · 31 January 2013, 11:45

Hi

Just in case you need help whilst you are up in loch lomond here is my number

Dave
0759 563 8185
ps a list of everything we do in a service is on our website if you need a check list as to what you should do.

Dan Gurney · 31 January 2013, 15:06

Thanks for all the advise. Kind of looking forward to getting stuck in now.

A lot of these kits don't include a new Woodruff key with the impeller. Is it necessary every time?

PS Thanks for that Dave. Dunno if you're aware but your website doesn't seem to want to load?

Actually it does load in the end, it's just reeeeaaaalllyyy slow!

simsy · 31 January 2013, 18:03

I did my oil fill as follows .

Use warm oil this time of year.
Drill a m8 bit of screwed rod around 24mm long with a 3-4mm hole.
Wrap a bit of tape around most of the 24mm to fit oil bottle filler tight.
Screw into bottom fill/drain hole. (m8 on my motor).
Use football inflation nozzle needle and push into bottom of oil bottle.
Hold oil bottle as high as possible and blow air into bottle gently with bike pump.
Oil is pushed into gearbox with no effort until it flows from top ....

Water pump key should be remembered, that's all I think....?

clydeoutboards · 04 February 2013, 10:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clamchowder

PS Thanks for that Dave. Dunno if you're aware but your website doesn't seem to want to load?

Actually it does load in the end, it's just reeeeaaaalllyyy slow!

Hi

Thanks and now fixed. oh we have also moved so note the new address and number.

Danncus · 05 February 2013, 08:15

Hi. I'm an inexperienced newish boater, and have been wondering for a while why the gear oil has to be filled from the drain hole?

Every car gearbox of differential I have worked on has always been filled from the level hole until overflowing.

How much oil do you loose whilst replacing the plug?

Thanks!

diesel do · 05 February 2013, 09:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danncus

Hi. I'm an inexperienced newish boater, and have been wondering for a while why the gear oil has to be filled from the drain hole?

Every car gearbox of differential I have worked on has always been filled from the level hole until overflowing.

How much oil do you loose whilst replacing the plug?

Thanks!

Two reasons that I can think of:

Filling from the drain hole purges any trapped air through the vent as the oil forces its way up.

It would be really hard to fill through the vent hole as the air would need to escape through the same hole that the oil was going in through!

The vent plug is replaced before removing the hose from the drain hole. This has the effect of airlocking the gearbox so very little oil is lost fitting the plug.

Dan Gurney · 02 March 2013, 17:35

So, I've replaced the impellor. Initially it didn't seem to have made any difference... tel-tale was still really weedy. So I took off the pipe that goes from the block to the tell tale hole and blew down it. Now it looks like this vid. It seems to be shifting water, it's just it's going out through a fairly big hole so it doesn't look as impressive as some people's (do I have tell-tale envy?

). I'd be grateful for any reassurances though.

Also, there's quite a lot of 'shit' of various kinds under the hood. What's the best way to clean all this off? Get stuck in there with an oily rag? I'm guessing we don't want to be sloshing water around in there with the electrics.

diesel do · 02 March 2013, 17:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clamchowder

So, I've replaced the impellor. Initially it didn't seem to have made any difference... tel-tale was still really weedy. So I took off the pipe that goes from the block to the tell tale hole and blew down it. Now it looks like this vid. It seems to be shifting water, it's just it's going out through a fairly big hole so it doesn't look as impressive as some people's (do I have tell-tale envy?

). I'd be grateful for any reassurances though.

Also, there's quite a lot of 'shit' of various kinds under the hood. What's the best way to clean all this off? Get stuck in there with an oily rag? I'm guessing we don't want to be sloshing water around in there with the electrics.

Are you running it in a test tank or on 'muffs'?
Some engines don't seem to get a good telltale on muffs, only in the tank.
I would recommend a purpose made spray degreaser thats safe on rubber and plastic, such as:

Yamalube Parts Cleaner - Multipurpose Degreaser - Aerosol | eBay

A toothbrush is great for Agitating the 'shit' whilst you wash it away with the cleaner.

Then protect with good old merc corrosion guard.

Your video is still proccessing so I can't comment on the tell tale vid.

willk · 02 March 2013, 19:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danncus

Hi. I'm an inexperienced newish boater, and have been wondering for a while why the gear oil has to be filled from the drain hole?

Diffs have breathers, marine gearboxes don't!

Use a gear oil dispenser pump and you won't lose ANY.

Dan Gurney · 03 March 2013, 01:29

Boink. Vid has finished processing now

Nos4r2 · 03 March 2013, 01:35

Looks ok-ish. Here's mine (identical engine) running off a drum and muffs to give you a comparison. Mine's like a fire hose.

Flushing an outboard with a drum and a hose - YouTube

clydeoutboards · 03 March 2013, 07:53

clean the rest of your pipes or if lazy buy salt x and run in for 30 minutes as yes it does look week.

Dave