Engine Vents

[Seb]

Des, the boat is unfortunately engineless so i cannot trace the makers back that way!

Anyone spoken to Halmatic before? Are they helpful enough to look back at records and let me know if they made it?

Possibly you guys should start a P22 photo gallery or an owners club - that combined with my restoration will certainly make a decent sized thread again!! may upset a few other though??

Des, is your original MoD spec or have you modified your too?

Also, i thin the later MK1's had GRP engine boxes although the design was pretty much the same. Anyone konw of anywhere where a similar mould could be bought?

Cheers

[Scary Des]

Originally Posted by Seb

Des, the boat is unfortunately engineless so i cannot trace the makers back that way!

Thinking about it the other thing to do is look for the boat numbers, MOD specify that the number should be on the transom and foredeck but they are sometimes removed when the boat is sent for disposal. The other places you can find the number is stamped into the GRP on the right hand side of the transom, usually this is a 4 digit number about 20mm long and 8mm high. You will also find it on major GRP mouldings such as a console, vents, crank breather filter housing etc. The first two digits are the year second two the build number.

Anyone spoken to Halmatic before? Are they helpful enough to look back at records and let me know if they made it?

COLOR=DarkSlateGray]Halmatic can be friendly, I think I spoke to John Clapham the last time, and he knew what he was talking about.

Possibly you guys should start a P22 photo gallery or an owners club - that combined with my restoration will certainly make a decent sized thread again!! may upset a few other though??


Web site would be good

Des, is your original MoD spec or have you modified your too?

My boat is in standard spec (I wasn’t as brave as Pete7) so other than the navigation stuff (fish/ GPS) I just put back what was missing.

Also, i thin the later MK1's had GRP engine boxes although the design was pretty much the same. Anyone konw of anywhere where a similar mould could be bought?

My boat has an aluminium engine housing but some have ply and a few have GRP. Last time I asked Halmatic they said they could offer moulding but at a cost and what a cost it was real arm and a leg pricing.

Des

Cheers

[Seb]

Thanks for that Des....i know the no. of the boat im going to see so ill give Halmatic a call.

How long did it take you to put back together? Is it full MoD spec now or were you sensible and only put the cheper parts back??!!

Did Halmatic give you an actual quote for an engine box?

If so, mind me asking how much it was?

Is your Ali box a Halmatic one or did you have it fabricated yourself? Sounds interesting....have you got any pictures of it?

Cheers

SEB

[Seb]

Des, forgot to ask you what the crank breather filter housing looks like, where it is and what it does....dont think i had one on the last P22???

Ta

[Scary Des]

[QUOTE=Seb] Thanks for that Des....i know the no. of the boat im going to see so ill give Halmatic a call.

How long did it take you to put back together? Is it full MoD spec now or were you sensible and only put the cheper parts back??!!

Took me a little over 4 months to get it all working but if I’d know about RIBNET then it would have taken me less.

Where ever possible I used the original parts but I did not buy anything from Halmatic. What I did was to find out who actually made the part and bought direct. For example Lancing Marine will supply all the bits for the leg but so will Halmatic plus there mark up. Let me know if you need anything and I will try to point you in the right direction.


Did Halmatic give you an actual quote for an engine box?

No I didn’t get a written quote for the engine box and I can’t remember how much they said over the phone but I do remember that I just dismissed it at too expensive by half.


Is your Ali box a Halmatic one or did you have it fabricated yourself? Sounds interesting....have you got any pictures of it?


With my engine box I have fixed head and tail boards which are standard on Navy spec. P22’s the two side covers slide into slots formed by angle irons and the top is a flat sheet with 25mm box around the edge to give it strength. They have used chequer plate for top and sides and 25mm box for the rest. The fixed head / tail board are made from ply. The top is heavy and I am thinking about cutting in half and hinging the two parts. I’ll post photo’s (if it works). I’ve never seen another boat with ali box so I think it was a replacement made by the Navy.
Cheers

Des

[Scary Des]

Originally Posted by Seb

Des, forgot to ask you what the crank breather filter housing looks like, where it is and what it does....dont think i had one on the last P22???

Ta

.
Good job too, I’m not convinced they are a good thing, if they block they can unload all your engine oil straight into the bilge. I’ve seen a lot of P22 without them so I’m not surprised yours was missing. I only mentioned it because I know it was a place where they put the boat number.

Des

[Seb]

Thanks for the advice offer - im sure ill be in touch!!

The crank filter cover thingy....what is it and what does it do?

Cheers

[roohairy]

Seb, been looking for something else on Vetus and noticed this:

In order to burn 1 kg of fuel (ca. 1,18 l) a volume of 16 kg of air is needed (ca. 12,4 m3 at 1 atmosphere).

Can't post a link as their site is framed, but look up louvered air suction vents in their index - I guess that the louvered ones with the dorade box may suit you but I can't see them being better than the originals.

Incidentally on 'my'(!) boat the engine box lid had been fitted the other way round, ie vents facing aft.

[Scary Des]

Originally Posted by Seb

Thanks for the advice offer - im sure ill be in touch!!

The crank filter cover thingy....what is it and what does it do?

Cheers

Seb
With older or worn turbo engines you can get a lot of ‘blow-by’ which is gas passing down the sides of the pistons past the rings. This gas in turn forces oil vapour in the crank case out of the crank case breather. This oil vapour smells unpleasant and coats the deck at the back of the engine housing making it slippery.

One way of stopping this is to use a coalescing filter and drain off the recovered oil. The risk with these filters is that if they block they raise the crank case pressure to a point were the engine oil will unload via the sump pump or dip stick.

On a non turbo engine these oil vapours can be fed back into the engine and burnt but if you do this with a turbo it can oil up the turbo and causes problems.

Sorry this reads like a lecture but I have my serious head on this morning.

Des