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Old 05 July 2020, 13:53   #1
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Evinrude 140 service - part 4. Stops running after a couple of seconds.

I will attempt to verify exact model.

This motor has been sat a long time.

The cooling system is now ok.

It's got fresh fuel going in, which already has 2 stroke oil in. It's a VRO engine so it will be adding its own too.


It fires on the button but seems to only run a couple of seconds. I have the fast idle set slightly.

It revs to about 2500rpm and then stops dead. Like the ignition has been cut.

Is this likely to be either too much oil in the fuel? (it is smokey)

Fouled plugs due to above?

Or stuck up carbs?

Or something else?

It's currently running without the gearcase on as I am waiting for the water pump parts to arrive.


Video here:


https://youtu.be/e3jJBvrVk1k



Thanks for your help!
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Old 05 July 2020, 14:24   #2
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It's not delivering the correct amount of fuel. It's nothing to do with an oily mix. I haven't read any of your other posts but if you haven't already I'd be taking carbs off to inspect/clean/balance.

Engine will run at higher rpm with gearbox off. Set idle with gearbox on and in water.
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Old 05 July 2020, 16:05   #3
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It's not delivering the correct amount of fuel. It's nothing to do with an oily mix. I haven't read any of your other posts but if you haven't already I'd be taking carbs off to inspect/clean/balance.

Engine will run at higher rpm with gearbox off. Set idle with gearbox on and in water.

Hi A1an,



Not sure if the VRO would cause this issue.


The other thing could be stuck carb floats. I believe that there is a startup solenoid that puts fuel directly into the intakes so maybe this is why its running briefly?


I'll look into checking the floats next...


I didn't want to go too far into carb stripping if I don't need to...
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Old 05 July 2020, 17:18   #4
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Had a quick look in the air box.

It all looks very clean and tidy in there. In fact it looks brand new.

There is a LOT of 2 stroke oil in there though.

I had a quick check of the float bowl drains and all had oil in.

So I am thinking that I just need to drain this all off and get some clean fuel in there. The fuel is clean up to the VRO.
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Old 05 July 2020, 18:01   #5
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How long has the engine been sitting since it was last used in anger?
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Old 05 July 2020, 19:45   #6
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How long has the engine been sitting since it was last used in anger?

5 or 6 years.


I can't quite believe how free of corrosion and spiders the carbs are.


The teleflex was well stuck, as were the driveshaft spines.


I am assuming the oil is fresh out of the VRO pump and not just left behind after the petrol evaporated years ago?


It's possible that only oil is coming through to the carbs from the VRO and fuel is getting injected by the starter solenoid - hence why it runs for a few seconds and then stops?


Does the oil get mixed inside the VRO pump?
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Old 05 July 2020, 20:11   #7
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I’m not familiar with the VRO, I used to have a Johnson 60hp with VRO years ago but ditched the VRO for premix.

My gut feeling is that it’s the evaporated petrol that is giving you your starting issue. I know you don’t want to start digging in to the carbs but it’s where I would start.

Do the carbs have a bowl drain on them? If they do you could try flushing the carb bowls by opening the drains and pumping CLEAN fuel through them but that’s a long shot.
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Old 05 July 2020, 20:47   #8
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It is running out of fuel, you can hear it slowly loose power. You could try pumping the primer bulb in between starts to see if it makes a difference but I doubt it will.

Since it has probably been 15 years since the carbs were last touched it is probably time for a rebuild. Kits are reasonably priced. I'd also recommend replacing the fuel pump, and all fuel lines.
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Old 05 July 2020, 22:16   #9
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Strips the carbs out, ultrasonic clean and reassemble. When you fired it up you had a puff of smoke. Next is to check fuel pump. Easy enough and cheap with a rebuild kit. Also check onboard fuel filter. Lastly the primer bulb. If the rubber feels hard, then replace. Quicksilver or OE part. The internal diaphragm can fail.
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Old 05 July 2020, 22:27   #10
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If you want to, send me the carbs and il stick em in the ultrasonic cleaner for you.
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Old 05 July 2020, 23:03   #11
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The carbs have drain plugs, which I will drain out tomorrow.


The oil looks fresh which is why I think its coming from the VRO pump.


The carbs were all soaked in oil and there was loads in the airbox.



I am thinking that its the VRO that's not pumping fuel. (it pumps oil and fuel together).


There is a seperate fuel circuit from a starter soleniod that puts a shot of fuel directly into the inlet manifold, bypassing the carbs. I think this is what's making the motor run initially.


Pumping the primer bulb won't get fuel into the carbs (I don't think) as the VRO is in the way.


I still don't fully understand what makes the VRO operate, it's not electric although it does have wires going to it, probably for the oil level detector? The manual mentions that it uses crankcase pressure and vacuum?


I will see if I can get at the fuel output from the VRO before it branches out the the carbs and see if there is fuel being pumped. There may be check valves or surge valves that are stuck preventing fuel flow.
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Old 06 July 2020, 13:04   #12
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Success! Thanks for all the suggestions.


Take a look at what came out of the float bowls (below)!


Now she starts on the button and runs for as long as my neighbours can stand it!


I have no idea if this motor is running right, it was 6 years since it last ran.


What do you think? Sounds a bit uneven? Or is this normal for this motor, of this age (20-30 years old)?


Remember its running on a (at least) double dose of oil.


https://youtu.be/e3jJBvrVk1k




Float bowl contents:
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Old 06 July 2020, 20:39   #13
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Take a look at what came out of the float bowls (below)!
The carbs need to be rebuilt. All that junk will plug the jets continually until you take them apart and clean all of them.

The last video doesn't show the motor running just starting and stopping. If you put the lower leg into a garbage can filled with water it will create a little more back pressure and make it far quieter for the neighbors, while also allowing you to better hear how the motor is running.
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Old 06 July 2020, 22:18   #14
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The carbs need to be rebuilt. All that junk will plug the jets continually until you take them apart and clean all of them.

The last video doesn't show the motor running just starting and stopping. If you put the lower leg into a garbage can filled with water it will create a little more back pressure and make it far quieter for the neighbors, while also allowing you to better hear how the motor is running.

Sorry old video!


Here's the most recent one:


https://youtu.be/-CM7Q-0NEIY
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Old 06 July 2020, 22:46   #15
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At idle that sounds pretty much like mine - Mercury 135 V6 2-stroke - when on muffs. Much better when in water.
You could give the water tank suggestion a go but I think you're going to need to do an on water test to see what happens as you open the throttle under load.

My Mercury has what they call 'oil injection'. Basically a small pump drips oil into a single 'T' piece on the fuel line prior to the carburettors. Sophisticated it isn't! Common mod on these was to block off the pump & run on pre-mix 50:1. (Mine still works fine so I let it get on with it but monitor the remote tank level)
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Old 07 July 2020, 09:21   #16
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At idle that sounds pretty much like mine - Mercury 135 V6 2-stroke - when on muffs. Much better when in water.
You could give the water tank suggestion a go but I think you're going to need to do an on water test to see what happens as you open the throttle under load.

My Mercury has what they call 'oil injection'. Basically a small pump drips oil into a single 'T' piece on the fuel line prior to the carburettors. Sophisticated it isn't! Common mod on these was to block off the pump & run on pre-mix 50:1. (Mine still works fine so I let it get on with it but monitor the remote tank level)

Thanks! I hope to get the gearcase on today with its new pump in. Hopefully I can find a barrel big enough to get the prop in to run it up in water.


Most youtube videos I found sound more or less the same as mine. Certainly doesn't run like a well oiled sewing machine!
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Old 07 July 2020, 11:06   #17
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IME if you want a quiet engine (bike or boat) buy a four stroke.
Friend of mine had a 90hp Yamaha 4 stroke on his boat.
If we were sat side by side talking I had to turn mine off or it was a shouting match.
I only knew his was still idling by the water coming from the telltale!
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Old 07 July 2020, 12:04   #18
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IME if you want a quiet engine (bike or boat) buy a four stroke.
Friend of mine had a 90hp Yamaha 4 stroke on his boat.
If we were sat side by side talking I had to turn mine off or it was a shouting match.
I only knew his was still idling by the water coming from the telltale!

Tell me about it! I have a tiny 2.5hp 4 stroke which is quiet. Still not whisper quiet which is odd really as it gets annoying on a quiet river after a while.



Anyway, 2 strokes are all about power and low weight with the major drawbacks of horrible pollution.



It's an ancient design after all.




I'd love a nice shiny new, clean, quiet, efficient 150hp 4 stroke but don't have a spare £13k!


I am hoping to sell this Evinrude with the speedboat and trailer for £2000...
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Old 07 July 2020, 15:00   #19
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Some more vids, this time in water with the gearcase on.


Not too bad I think?


https://youtu.be/DZ65PsZeYSQ


https://youtu.be/tybO-RsoCn8
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Old 07 July 2020, 16:12   #20
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Says both video's are private for me
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