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Old 06 January 2008, 21:50   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmanning View Post
Theres been a few cases of this with Etecs. They shouldn't be left on tickover in neutral for long periods and they shouldn't be revved above 1200rpm in neutral ever.


that is not true, the E-TEC can idle or troll all day without a problem. Look on the fishing forums for those who troll baits all day long. Just like with any other motor, 2 or 4 stroke, it has to be in a good state of tune and the thermostats operational.

You cannot rev an E-TEC in neutral much above 1200 rpm even if you try to because the computer will not allow it, just like the Yamaha HPDI will not allow high revs in neutral either.
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Old 06 January 2008, 22:49   #22
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Country: UK - England
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Engine: tatsu 50
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I asked the very helpful mechanic at the dealer about the spark plug issue etc last week .

He said that some engines used for trolling a lot did often need new plugs at 150 - 200 hrs , whereas engines driven hard or normally often didn't need new plugs at the 300hr service .

The reason for the indexing is that there is a deflector pin infront of the injector to stop the fuel spray fouling the plug before it gets properly mixed , the electrode I think needs to face away from that and that its imprtant the spark comes from a fairly exact direction.
It is fine to remove a plug , just make sure it goes back in the same cylinder .

Champion are now supposed to be supplying the plugs so that the thread and elecrode are propely indexed but its a bit of a lottery at present .

I think for the sake of £15 I shall get a set of plugs and chuck in the tool box thenforget it untill 300 hrs .

Apparantly the new 2008 etecs have an updated ignition system among other mods . At cranking the plugs spark constantly like an arc welder to give even better starting .

i don't like trolling with any engine , running at tickover for ages in gear can't be any good for many reasons .Thats one reason i want an auxiliary motor as we hope to do more fishing with the new boat.
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Old 06 January 2008, 23:11   #23
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Country: Netherlands
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Has someone a drawing/scematic or picture of it? Pic's say more than a thousand words
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Old 07 January 2008, 17:54   #24
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Here's the answer, if you want more let me know.
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Old 07 January 2008, 22:22   #25
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thats clear answer. I was looking for that......
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Old 07 January 2008, 23:04   #26
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Originally Posted by Bertus View Post
thats clear answer. I was looking for that......

Here is a link to the whole article. Pay close attention to the note at the bottom page about torquing the plugs.

http://www.boatsetup.com/PlgIndexing.html
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Old 07 January 2008, 23:31   #27
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Must this procedure still be don on E-tec's?
I thought that products evolve and that the upgrade or faulty design were redesigned
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Old 08 January 2008, 00:17   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkM View Post
Here's the answer, if you want more let me know.

For the 90 owners here I think that diagram doesn't apply as its for a v 6 showing the port bank .
Its hard to see from the picture but it appears that the plug and injector are in the opposite positions to where a 90 triple would be .
The indexing line is more like sector A on the 90 if you are looking at the plug end on .
Or as was said eariler between 1 and 3 oclock in relation to the injector .


As far as getting the right plugs from the dealer should you need them , why not remove the plugs marking which cylinder they are from and then match up plugs at the dealer . Surely all you are looking for is a plug where the thread starts at the same position in relation to the electrode .
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Old 08 January 2008, 20:08   #29
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Plugs for Evinrudes DI or E-tec are very expensive. So I ordered 18 pcs. in the United States at http://www.sparkplugs.com/ one third of the price in the Netherlands transport and everything included.
With such a stock they always fit.
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Old 08 January 2008, 20:29   #30
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Country: UK - England
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I havent read the proceedure for the replacement of the plugs but i have noticed on both the new 90 and 150 i have bought around the rim of the washer has always been a red translucent Paste/sealer only manufacturer instruction would clarify what that was .Worth checking out though
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Old 09 January 2008, 23:16   #31
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Thought I'd post a link to a british supplier of spark plugs at good prices: http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/
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Old 12 January 2008, 18:43   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterR View Post
I havent read the proceedure for the replacement of the plugs but i have noticed on both the new 90 and 150 i have bought around the rim of the washer has always been a red translucent Paste/sealer only manufacturer instruction would clarify what that was .Worth checking out though
I think this may be the Anti Tamper seal so the dealer can see if you have had the plugs out.

Chris
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Old 12 January 2008, 19:01   #33
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More like an assembly grease they use on the threads .

The dealer also noticed that my motor hadn't been sprayed with an anti corosion protection so he did that for me . Its like thin waxoyl , maybe acf50 or similar . He said lost of dealers don't do it but they are supposed to when they pdi the motor. Glad it had only 25 hrs on fresh water when i got it .
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Old 19 January 2008, 08:58   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekim View Post
Hi


Having problems starting the above engine. Starter motor is working but engine refuses to start. Checked fuel lines, battery etc and all is OK.

Two days ago I started engine and left it at idle for approx 20 mins and then turned if off. Could it be fouled plugs?

Any comments much appreciated.

Mike
Has the problem been solved and what was it
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