Evinrude etec & problem when I try and start the motor

[SteveHall]

I have a 175 Evinrude etec, and I am having a few problems with it at the moment and I am after some advice...

I am having a problem when I try and start the motor, when I turn the key into position 1 I get the normal beep and the dials jump and set into the correct position, but then when I turn to the next position to start nothing happens – unless I hold it in this position and wiggle the key – then I get a whole array of beeping and the dials going up and down, but it will fire and start.

When it turns over it starts without any problem, it’s not struggling or having any other problems – so this makes me believe it’s not the batteries, trim/tilt works ok without any problems when the motor isn’t running so makes me believe the connection to the batteries are fine.

I have my GPS set to show battery voltage, and when the engine is off the voltage is about 12.5, when its turning over it drops down to 11.6 for a moment, and then when running its 14.5.

I have two batteries and get the same if they are set to 1,2 or 1&2

I am thinking ignition switch? any other things to try / suggest?

[Pikey Dave]

Sounds like the ignition switch to me, do you have a genuine BRP switch & access to a mulimeter? If so I'll have a look in the manual & get a couple of checks that you can do.

[SteveHall]

Yes its a genuine switch - Like this one...

[kerny]

Steve, just a thought might be worth squirting some wd40 up there just to see if any salty stuff has got in there.

[SteveHall]

That was the first thing i did - took the pannel off and it had a good spray, and also checked all the contacts and they are solid - but they also got a bath in WD40

[tim griffin]

I would go with the WD40 and pump the kill chord connector a few times as they can salt up.
If not voltage test and clean terminals
Other than that new switch .
Tim

[SteveHall]

Thats my plan, I am going to remove the switch and take it home to give it a good clean, and I wanted to know what the best tests were, I will wait for Dave to come back to me

[Pikey Dave]

On the rear of the switch you should have something like this, see pic.

With the switch in the "ON" position you should have 12V on terminals B & A. In the "Start" position you should have 12V on B-A & S. The reading should be exactly the same voltage on all 3 terminals when in "Start" if the Voltage varies e.g. 12V on B, 11V on A, 10V on S, this would indicate poor connections inside the switch, possible corrosion etc. If the readings are ok, remove the engine cowl & locate the solenoid, when you turn the key to "START" you should hear the solenoid click (you'll probably need a mate to help here) Also locate the LEDs on the EMM. With the key in "ON" position you should have LEDs 1,3,4 on steady (not flashing). In the "Start" position (cranking), you should have all 4 on steady. When the engine starts, all 4 LEDs should extinguish in turn after about 2 secs.

Give that lot a whirl & see how you go.

[mick]

As regards WD40 I wouldn't use that on any wiring connectors get something like ACF 50

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by mick

As regards WD40 I wouldn't use that on any wiring connectors get something like ACF 50

+WD40 doesn't dissolve salt either. It does dissolve rubber though

PS get your own avatar, I had it first

[jambo]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

+WD40 doesn't dissolve salt either. It does dissolve rubber though

PS get your own avatar, I had it first

What's this new war of the 'Roses' white only style!
Cheers
B

Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net

[kerny]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

PS get your own avatar, I had it first

Is it cos Mick's is bigger than yours

[mick]

Originally Posted by kerny

Is it cos Mick's is bigger than yours

But who's idea was it

[mick]

Originally Posted by kerny

Is it cos Mick's is bigger than yours

You lot should be at work anyway

[SteveHall]

Well back to my problem, the switch seems to be OK, no problems at all, now i did give it a clean up before i tested it, but nothing major - so now I guess I will need to check the cables, and see what i find next.. Its just a pain to check as the boat is in a barn...

[Pikey Dave]

Unplug the cable from the solenoid & stick your multimeter across the pins, you should have a steady 12V across the pins with the ignition in the "start" position.

[SteveHall]

ah yes, I missed that! Thanks.. Need to find a friend now though...

[wiLlfish]

Originally Posted by SteveHall

Need to find a friend now though...

Mishun impossibul mi sun

Itt mite be beter too hyre a tomm fromm de bakkstreats ov prestun forr an hower.

Thenn yew gett yor enjin fixt an a shagg az wel.

[SteveHall]

Just want to check something, the 'item' attached to PIN S - I take it this is the neutral safety switch?

Now I think about it, I only remember having the problems after the cables were replaced - so perhaps this has worked loose in the moorse

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by SteveHall

Just want to check something, the 'item' attached to PIN S - I take it this is the neutral safety switch?

Now I think about it, I only remember having the problems after the cables were replaced - so perhaps this has worked loose in the moorse

Depending on how you're setup, the "s" is the start terminal, it then goes through the neutral switch then to the engine.