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19 December 2011, 22:54
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,021
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Filling holes on Transom
The nobber who rigged the Honda on Pigs Ear fitted the top bolts too close to the top of the transom (about an inch from the top!)
So going to drill new holes two holes down on the bracket and move the bolts down 2 holes (1.5")
I would like to fill the old holes and wondered what the best way is to do so. Wooden dowls (slightly oversize) and some epoxy then knock them in with a mallet till they are slightly below the surface to allow some gelcoat filler to be used to finish off the surface seems the best solution to me.
Any better solutions?
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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19 December 2011, 22:59
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Inverness
Boat name: none
Make: none
Engine: none
MMSI: none
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,908
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Thats what I did when I filled the holes from the botched fitting of my A frame by the manufacturer.
I just used dowel, epoxy and gelcoat filler just as you say and it seems fine nearly a year later.
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19 December 2011, 23:02
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#3
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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Assuming its a wood core transom...
You'll probably find that your need to sand/grind out a "dish" into the gelcoat and partly into the glass. If you just put a disk of gelcoat on the end of the wood bung, the differential expansion and contraction of the wood and glass will make a nice circular crack in the gelcoat. So bevel out the edge a little.
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19 December 2011, 23:11
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#4
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Redbay supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: onn de moov
Boat name: bote
Make: kevvin
Length: 4m +
Engine: jett dryve
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris
Any better solutions?
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yewse sikks bowlts in sted ov forr
dat givs yew 33 pir sent les charnce ov de fkin enjin forlin orf
dis orlso meens dat yew wil av too dril too noo oles
ifn yew starrt a thred bowt drillin oles yorr a ded mann warkin
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fuk mee crismus leeve wiv noe ankul tagg
Wher doo I beegin?😃
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19 December 2011, 23:17
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Royal Wootton Bassett
Length: 8m +
Engine: 250
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 8,047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiLlfish
yewse sikks bowlts in sted ov forr
dat givs yew 33 pir sent les charnce ov de fkin enjin forlin orf
dis orlso meens dat yew wil av too dril too noo oles
ifn yew starrt a thred bowt drillin oles yorr a ded mann warkin
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Yep, I would fit 2 new ones so you would have 6 bolts in total
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19 December 2011, 23:19
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiLlfish
yewse sikks bowlts in sted ov forr
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Had thought of that and agree its probably the easy option..
I was just being a bit pedantic and not wanting a transom full of bolts.
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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20 December 2011, 00:10
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiLlfish
dat givs yew 33 pir sent les charnce ov de fkin enjin forlin orf
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Az itss ann Ondder, de fkin bowlts owldin itt ontoo de tranzum arr de leest ov iz wurrys inn keapin de enjin onbored.
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20 December 2011, 00:11
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris
not wanting a transom full of bolts.
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Better than sticks
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20 December 2011, 08:28
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
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My 'Leccy Pal Lee had this dilema with his Stingray chavboat. The solution was, a laser cut stainless plate which was boxed over the top of the transom and came down the inboard side enough to cover the first row of holes and came lower on the outboard side. It was cut, shaped and fab'd by a commercial kitchen outfit. I can get a pic, it looks dead smart.
The redundant holes were filled with GRP bridger.
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20 December 2011, 09:10
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#10
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers
My 'Leccy Pal Lee had this dilema with his Stingray chavboat. The solution was, a laser cut stainless plate which was boxed over the top of the transom and came down the inboard side enough to cover the first row of holes and came lower on the outboard side. It was cut, shaped and fab'd by a commercial kitchen outfit. I can get a pic, it looks dead smart.
The redundant holes were filled with GRP bridger.
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I made mine like this to protect the transom from new and one from the old searider in powder coated ally
Jim
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20 December 2011, 09:22
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisper
Yep, I would fit 2 new ones so you would have 6 bolts in total
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Ditto.
Just a wee curveball from the stainless plate dept:
I removed one of them from my transom when I changed the engine. Looked wonderful & shiny form the outside, but tround the back was a bucketload of salt and oodles of corrosion. It was so bad my plan of using a corner of it to mount my Nav lights was promptly abandoned!
Thing is unless it is perfectly seald (a utopuian fantasy in itself) water will get in, eventually evaporate and leave the salt behind. the rest you can work out!
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20 December 2011, 09:26
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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I'd have a think about it first. Whatever you put in the transom won't be as strong as original and then you're going to drill another hole quite close to it. I'll be inclined to leave it as it is
sent from a remote device
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20 December 2011, 09:26
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bedajim
.....the old searider in powder coated ally
Jim
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Was that the old (new) dearest in the World ever 4m Searider??
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20 December 2011, 09:31
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 8,872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280
.
Thing is unless it is perfectly seald (a utopuian fantasy in itself) water will get in, eventually evaporate and leave the salt behind. the rest you can work out!
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If the boat isn't going to be left in the water all season and a careful Sikaflex job is done, all will be good in my opinion. I disagree that the briney can't be kept out.
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20 December 2011, 09:49
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Chorley / Holyhead
Boat name: Northwind Challenger
Make: Tornado
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mariner 115 efi CT
MMSI: 235080598
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiLlfish
yewse sikks bowlts in sted ov forr
dat givs yew 33 pir sent les charnce ov de fkin enjin forlin orf
dis orlso meens dat yew wil av too dril too noo oles
ifn yew starrt a thred bowt drillin oles yorr a ded mann warkin
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id love to see your mayday calling card!
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20 December 2011, 10:02
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sheepy Parva
Boat name: Sadly Sold
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiLlfish
ifn yew starrt a thred bowt drillin oles yorr a ded mann warkin
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Bummer..As a dead man walking from a previous hole drilling thread :-0 I suppose a thread about the relative percentages of engine falling off with 6 ilo 4 bolts would go the same way too
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20 December 2011, 12:25
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#17
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Redbay supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: onn de moov
Boat name: bote
Make: kevvin
Length: 4m +
Engine: jett dryve
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Festinghouse
id love to see your mayday calling card!
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maiy daiy maydaiy maiydaiy
dis iz de willfish
i am in de fkin cakk
mi honnda az forlen orf de bakk ov de bote
mi pozishun iz ....fuk itt de GSP iz fukt az wel. sum wher inn de fkin sowlint
i reekwire imediut asistunce yew twatts an downt gett sendin wan ov dem attlantiks ful ov ribnobburs. sennd mee a propper orl wevver bote
an fkin urry upp
owt
wIlf
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leapy
a thread about the relative percentages of engine falling off with 6 ilo 4 bolts would go the same way too
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gow forr itt mi sun
itt wud give dat wankir poowart sumfink tto doo ovir crismus
__________________
fuk mee crismus leeve wiv noe ankul tagg
Wher doo I beegin?😃
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20 December 2011, 13:57
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#18
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers
Was that the old (new) dearest in the World ever 4m Searider??
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Yes with a smooth bottom too, not the Penrim non slip finish
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20 December 2011, 14:17
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Chorley / Holyhead
Boat name: Northwind Challenger
Make: Tornado
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mariner 115 efi CT
MMSI: 235080598
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiLlfish
maiy daiy maydaiy maiydaiy
dis iz de willfish
i am in de fkin cakk
mi honnda az forlen orf de bakk ov de bote
mi pozishun iz ....fuk itt de GSP iz fukt az wel. sum wher inn de fkin sowlint
i reekwire imediut asistunce yew twatts an downt gett sendin wan ov dem attlantiks ful ov ribnobburs. sennd mee a propper orl wevver bote
an fkin urry upp
owt
wIlf
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excellent - ive just printed that out and stuck it on my console!
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"Life may often suck, but the alternative is unacceptable"
MMSI Sticker
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20 December 2011, 15:36
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers
If the boat isn't going to be left in the water all season and a careful Sikaflex job is done, all will be good in my opinion. I disagree that the briney can't be kept out.
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Plate hard against transom = V. thin layer of Sika. Even if you coat the whole thing there is going to be relative differential expansion & contraction. Even Sika has a life expectancy when cured and will eventually go hard = hairline crack on next expansion / contraction = ingress...... And that before you induce vibration form the engine.
Once agian this may turn out to be one of these "agree to disagree" marmite subjects, but based on what I found, I'm steering clear!
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