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Old 19 December 2011, 22:54   #1
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Filling holes on Transom

The nobber who rigged the Honda on Pigs Ear fitted the top bolts too close to the top of the transom (about an inch from the top!)

So going to drill new holes two holes down on the bracket and move the bolts down 2 holes (1.5")

I would like to fill the old holes and wondered what the best way is to do so. Wooden dowls (slightly oversize) and some epoxy then knock them in with a mallet till they are slightly below the surface to allow some gelcoat filler to be used to finish off the surface seems the best solution to me.

Any better solutions?
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Old 19 December 2011, 22:59   #2
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Thats what I did when I filled the holes from the botched fitting of my A frame by the manufacturer.
I just used dowel, epoxy and gelcoat filler just as you say and it seems fine nearly a year later.
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Old 19 December 2011, 23:02   #3
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Assuming its a wood core transom...

You'll probably find that your need to sand/grind out a "dish" into the gelcoat and partly into the glass. If you just put a disk of gelcoat on the end of the wood bung, the differential expansion and contraction of the wood and glass will make a nice circular crack in the gelcoat. So bevel out the edge a little.
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Old 19 December 2011, 23:11   #4
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Quote:
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Any better solutions?

yewse sikks bowlts in sted ov forr

dat givs yew 33 pir sent les charnce ov de fkin enjin forlin orf

dis orlso meens dat yew wil av too dril too noo oles

ifn yew starrt a thred bowt drillin oles yorr a ded mann warkin
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Old 19 December 2011, 23:17   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiLlfish View Post
yewse sikks bowlts in sted ov forr

dat givs yew 33 pir sent les charnce ov de fkin enjin forlin orf

dis orlso meens dat yew wil av too dril too noo oles

ifn yew starrt a thred bowt drillin oles yorr a ded mann warkin
Yep, I would fit 2 new ones so you would have 6 bolts in total
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Old 19 December 2011, 23:19   #6
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Quote:
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yewse sikks bowlts in sted ov forr
Had thought of that and agree its probably the easy option..

I was just being a bit pedantic and not wanting a transom full of bolts.

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Old 20 December 2011, 00:10   #7
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dat givs yew 33 pir sent les charnce ov de fkin enjin forlin orf
Az itss ann Ondder, de fkin bowlts owldin itt ontoo de tranzum arr de leest ov iz wurrys inn keapin de enjin onbored.
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Old 20 December 2011, 00:11   #8
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not wanting a transom full of bolts.
Better than sticks
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Old 20 December 2011, 08:28   #9
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My 'Leccy Pal Lee had this dilema with his Stingray chavboat. The solution was, a laser cut stainless plate which was boxed over the top of the transom and came down the inboard side enough to cover the first row of holes and came lower on the outboard side. It was cut, shaped and fab'd by a commercial kitchen outfit. I can get a pic, it looks dead smart.
The redundant holes were filled with GRP bridger.
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Old 20 December 2011, 09:10   #10
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My 'Leccy Pal Lee had this dilema with his Stingray chavboat. The solution was, a laser cut stainless plate which was boxed over the top of the transom and came down the inboard side enough to cover the first row of holes and came lower on the outboard side. It was cut, shaped and fab'd by a commercial kitchen outfit. I can get a pic, it looks dead smart.
The redundant holes were filled with GRP bridger.
I made mine like this to protect the transom from new and one from the old searider in powder coated ally

Jim
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Old 20 December 2011, 09:22   #11
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Quote:
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Yep, I would fit 2 new ones so you would have 6 bolts in total
Ditto.


Just a wee curveball from the stainless plate dept:

I removed one of them from my transom when I changed the engine. Looked wonderful & shiny form the outside, but tround the back was a bucketload of salt and oodles of corrosion. It was so bad my plan of using a corner of it to mount my Nav lights was promptly abandoned!

Thing is unless it is perfectly seald (a utopuian fantasy in itself) water will get in, eventually evaporate and leave the salt behind. the rest you can work out!
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Old 20 December 2011, 09:26   #12
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I'd have a think about it first. Whatever you put in the transom won't be as strong as original and then you're going to drill another hole quite close to it. I'll be inclined to leave it as it is

sent from a remote device
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Old 20 December 2011, 09:26   #13
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.....the old searider in powder coated ally

Jim
Was that the old (new) dearest in the World ever 4m Searider??
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Old 20 December 2011, 09:31   #14
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.


Thing is unless it is perfectly seald (a utopuian fantasy in itself) water will get in, eventually evaporate and leave the salt behind. the rest you can work out!
If the boat isn't going to be left in the water all season and a careful Sikaflex job is done, all will be good in my opinion. I disagree that the briney can't be kept out.
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Old 20 December 2011, 09:49   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiLlfish View Post
yewse sikks bowlts in sted ov forr

dat givs yew 33 pir sent les charnce ov de fkin enjin forlin orf

dis orlso meens dat yew wil av too dril too noo oles

ifn yew starrt a thred bowt drillin oles yorr a ded mann warkin
id love to see your mayday calling card!
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Old 20 December 2011, 10:02   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiLlfish
ifn yew starrt a thred bowt drillin oles yorr a ded mann warkin
Bummer..As a dead man walking from a previous hole drilling thread :-0 I suppose a thread about the relative percentages of engine falling off with 6 ilo 4 bolts would go the same way too
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Old 20 December 2011, 12:25   #17
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id love to see your mayday calling card!

maiy daiy maydaiy maiydaiy
dis iz de willfish

i am in de fkin cakk
mi honnda az forlen orf de bakk ov de bote
mi pozishun iz ....fuk itt de GSP iz fukt az wel. sum wher inn de fkin sowlint

i reekwire imediut asistunce yew twatts an downt gett sendin wan ov dem attlantiks ful ov ribnobburs. sennd mee a propper orl wevver bote

an fkin urry upp
owt

wIlf





Quote:
Originally Posted by Leapy View Post
a thread about the relative percentages of engine falling off with 6 ilo 4 bolts would go the same way too
gow forr itt mi sun


itt wud give dat wankir poowart sumfink tto doo ovir crismus
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Old 20 December 2011, 13:57   #18
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Was that the old (new) dearest in the World ever 4m Searider??
Yes with a smooth bottom too, not the Penrim non slip finish
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Old 20 December 2011, 14:17   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiLlfish View Post
maiy daiy maydaiy maiydaiy
dis iz de willfish

i am in de fkin cakk
mi honnda az forlen orf de bakk ov de bote
mi pozishun iz ....fuk itt de GSP iz fukt az wel. sum wher inn de fkin sowlint

i reekwire imediut asistunce yew twatts an downt gett sendin wan ov dem attlantiks ful ov ribnobburs. sennd mee a propper orl wevver bote

an fkin urry upp
owt

wIlf
excellent - ive just printed that out and stuck it on my console!
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Old 20 December 2011, 15:36   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers View Post
If the boat isn't going to be left in the water all season and a careful Sikaflex job is done, all will be good in my opinion. I disagree that the briney can't be kept out.
Plate hard against transom = V. thin layer of Sika. Even if you coat the whole thing there is going to be relative differential expansion & contraction. Even Sika has a life expectancy when cured and will eventually go hard = hairline crack on next expansion / contraction = ingress...... And that before you induce vibration form the engine.


Once agian this may turn out to be one of these "agree to disagree" marmite subjects, but based on what I found, I'm steering clear!
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