Help in identifying electrical part

[Inglenook]

Can someone tell me what this part is called and where to get one? The one wire coming from the left hand side is actually detached and prevents the motor from starting off the key.

Thank you

[Last Tango]

That just looks like an inline fuse holder and maybe a previous owners mod..

[Pikey Dave]

Yup agree with LT, looks like a bodge job. It needs cutting out & a proper job making of it. A waterproof fuse holder & heatshrink crimps would be a start. I'm also guessing if that cable isn't tinned copper, it will also be u/s

[Inglenook]

Originally Posted by Last Tango

That just looks like an inline fuse holder and maybe a previous owners mod..

Thank you, it is probably a mod as it is an ex RNLI engine so I presume has been altered to allow for electric start. It is a 40hp Mariner circa 2006, any idea what fuse size this would be for?

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Inglenook

Thank you, it is probably a mod as it is an ex RNLI engine so I presume has been altered to allow for electric start. It is a 40hp Mariner circa 2006, any idea what fuse size this would be for?

Without knowing what the fuse is supplying & the size of the cable it's difficult to say. Generally fuses are there to protect the supply cables not the attached load.

I'd use something like this

http://www.sailsmarine.com/ItemDetai...5002&l=g&cc=GB

Or this

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F290836665952

[Poly]

Originally Posted by Inglenook

Thank you, it is probably a mod as it is an ex RNLI engine so I presume has been altered to allow for electric start. It is a 40hp Mariner circa 2006, any idea what fuse size this would be for?

The obvious think would be the size currently in the holder! Failing that findthe wiring diagram for the equivalent 40hp. My guess is it will be 20A the same as on my20HP.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Poly

The obvious think would be the size currently in the holder! Failing that findthe wiring diagram for the equivalent 40hp. My guess is it will be 20A the same as on my20HP.

That looks like a bit of "after market" wiring to me. Looks like someone has taken a live feed off the solenoid, the 4 core that it connects to doesn't look to be up to carrying 20A

[Poly]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

That looks like a bit of "after market" wiring to me. Looks like someone has taken a live feed off the solenoid, the 4 core that it connects to doesn't look to be up to carrying 20A

It’s definitely not original - but I guessed follows the same approach as the OEM version - I didn’t spot the other end it was joined to on my phone. My wee engine has a waterproof inline fuse in roughly that location. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s got a 20amp fuse though! It doesn’t look like it was fitted by someone with too much knowledge - and it may all need rewiring.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Poly

It’s definitely not original - but I guessed follows the same approach as the OEM version - I didn’t spot the other end it was joined to on my phone. My wee engine has a waterproof inline fuse in roughly that location. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s got a 20amp fuse though! It doesn’t look like it was fitted by someone with too much knowledge - and it may all need rewiring.

I've just had a closer look at the cable & if I'm not mistaken it's trailer cable. They've used the white for something else & cut off the green & brown. It certainly won't be tinned. Assuming Finagle's law applies, I'd rip it out & do it reyt.

[Inglenook]

Thanks for all of your replies. It isnt the neatest of jobs so I will probably look at rewiring, does anyone know where I can get a manual / diagram of the electrics?
It is a 2006 Mariner 40hp 2 stroke.

[Inglenook]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

I've just had a closer look at the cable & if I'm not mistaken it's trailer cable. They've used the white for something else & cut off the green & brown. It certainly won't be tinned. Assuming Finagle's law applies, I'd rip it out & do it reyt.

Thanks Pikey Dave, looking at it closely I think you could be right, I think i will look to re-wire it over the coming weeks using marine 4 core.

Thank you for your replies

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Inglenook

Thanks Pikey Dave, looking at it closely I think you could be right, I think i will look to re-wire it over the coming weeks using marine 4 core.



Thank you for your replies

Where does the dodgy cable go to?

[Inglenook]

The 'dodgy' wire is the key start so presume it is to the starter motor solenoid?

[Lee1]

An old in line fuse holder used on car radios back in the day, you can swap it out for a up to date waterproof and reliable blade type fuse holder.
All that wiring to the starter solenoid looks dodgy, replace it all, looks like very thin wire has been used, you can replace with 3 way 240v insulated cable, (use a piece of an old lawn mower) those blue crimp connectors rust out and fail and are often not even crimped right on the bare wire, solder on gold plated connectors to the wire and protect the connector to wire area with heat shrink

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Lee1

........ you can replace with 3 way 240v insulated cable, (use a piece of an old lawn mower)

Attachment 124983

[emoji23][emoji23]Brilliant, I wish I'd thought of that[emoji106]

[Lee1]

Great minds think alike

The blue Halfords crimp connectors are real junk, I use gold plated connectors sold for high power car stereo amplifier/bass box connection, they do crimp but are better soldered on some are sold with a rubber type insulation cover others do not either way covering with heat shrink will be the best finish, once done right it's as good as if not a better connector fitting than the factory originals

[ATTACH]124989

[ShinyShoe]

Originally Posted by Lee1

Great minds think alike

Me doth think Pikey might have been sarcastic!

Lawnmower cable is fine electrically but Pikey is a big believer in tinned cable and I'm gonna bet lawnmower isn't.

I use gold plated connectors sold for high power car stereo amplifier/bass box connection,

I've only ever seen gold plated connectors used for what I'd call "high resolution" electronics - so audio, video, high speed data. For high current electrics there should be no need to have gold fittings... ...if it was a loose connection it will jump the micrometer gap at the currents involved...

they do crimp but are better soldered on

Mmmm... a good crimp is better than a bad solder. A good solder is better than a bad crimp. In that location solder will suffer from a lot of vibration and will therefore need physical support...

some are sold with a rubber type insulation cover others do not either way covering with heat shrink will be the best finish,

The correct connector to use would be an adhesive filled heat shrink. It contains glue like you get in a hot glue gun. When you heat the heat shrink the glue melts and gives mechanical support and helps with waterproofing. You can buy crimp connectors with that all built in... oddly - never seen a gold plated one.

[Inglenook]

Thank you all for your input, it is appreciated. I will for now replace with a waterproof bladed fuse holder and sort out the connectors as suggested. Thanks again, the knowledge on here is invaluable.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by ShinyShoe

Me doth think Pikey might have been sarcastic!

Moi![emoji56]

[Pikey Dave]

Cable (to save you chopping up the Flymo[emoji849])

http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/9500004...lti_Core_Cable

Crimps

http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/9500004...rink_Terminals

Fuse
http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/9500004...ts/FHA595-Fuse