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Old 14 July 2020, 09:27   #21
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Thats a CDI Regulator.... Not the same thing I am afraid
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Old 14 July 2020, 23:44   #22
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Thats a CDI Regulator.... Not the same thing I am afraid
From what I have seen by the links posted it is just a solid state regulator, Nothing special. Brand is not important, nor is shape. Only the wires coming in, and going out. I used a motorcycle regulator *shrugs*
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Old 22 July 2020, 05:55   #23
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Hello all

I have done some more testing and I now think the issue might be the Stator. I went out in the boat yesterday up the river with a brand new fully charged battery. The boat ran well for about 40 mins and then lost power and would not tick over at all well and was hard to start. Got her back to the mooring ok. The battery is still not charging by the way (wanted to test out Picky Daves idea about using a new battery).

Having read up a bit more the net suggests that as a stator starts to fail it is worse when it gets hot. This might be why it was ok at first but then went to poor running (Weak Spark I suspect) What do others think about this possibility.

Either way I am pulling her out to try and get this sorted
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Old 22 July 2020, 09:15   #24
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I dont think this situation will need the RNLI any time soon


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The boat ran well for about 40 mins and then lost power and would not tick over at all well and was hard to start. Got her back to the mooring ok.

Mmm... got lucky.
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Old 22 July 2020, 18:07   #25
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Mmm... got lucky.

No no luck involved. I had a friend in a boat with me to take us in tow should a problem happen.

Tell me how would you test something on your boat that required it to run at full speed if not in the water

I was hoping that someone might have had a comment that was helpful when I signed back in but sadly not
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Old 22 July 2020, 21:16   #26
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Hello all

I have done some more testing and I now think the issue might be the Stator. I went out in the boat yesterday up the river with a brand new fully charged battery. The boat ran well for about 40 mins and then lost power and would not tick over at all well and was hard to start. Got her back to the mooring ok. The battery is still not charging by the way (wanted to test out Picky Daves idea about using a new battery).

Having read up a bit more the net suggests that as a stator starts to fail it is worse when it gets hot. This might be why it was ok at first but then went to poor running (Weak Spark I suspect) What do others think about this possibility.

Either way I am pulling her out to try and get this sorted
Had the charged battery discharged by the time it started misfiring? If it was going flat then it wouldnt have as much voltage to fire the spark which could explain the rough running after a period . It may help your diagnosis to try again with a fully charged battery and see if its still misfiring, the rough running may be a symptom of the low battery and not a symptom of a failing part
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Old 22 July 2020, 21:38   #27
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Originally Posted by smallribber View Post
Hello all

I have done some more testing and I now think the issue might be the Stator. I went out in the boat yesterday up the river with a brand new fully charged battery. The boat ran well for about 40 mins and then lost power and would not tick over at all well and was hard to start. Got her back to the mooring ok. The battery is still not charging by the way (wanted to test out Picky Daves idea about using a new battery).

Having read up a bit more the net suggests that as a stator starts to fail it is worse when it gets hot. This might be why it was ok at first but then went to poor running (Weak Spark I suspect) What do others think about this possibility.

Either way I am pulling her out to try and get this sorted
Glad it wasn't too hard a lesson to learn....but with anything Sea Going ...Craft or Equipment (and still there's no 100% Guarantee)
"ANY DOUBT ...SORT IT OUT"
Good luck
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Old 23 July 2020, 06:01   #28
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Had the charged battery discharged by the time it started misfiring? If it was going flat then it wouldnt have as much voltage to fire the spark which could explain the rough running after a period . It may help your diagnosis to try again with a fully charged battery and see if its still misfiring, the rough running may be a symptom of the low battery and not a symptom of a failing part
I was using a brand new battery fully charged battery and it had gone down a bit by the end of the test. The battery does not provide the spark this comes from the stator. I confirmed this by disconnecting the battery when it was running and it continued running. I think my stator is split in 3 parts (Charging circuit, Cylinder bank 1 and cylinder bank 2. I think the Charging part has failed and one of the parts fireing one of the sets of cylinders is failing.

Either way she is comming out next week and I will try and get it sorted.

Thanks for all the 'helpful' comments from those helpful people on here
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Old 23 July 2020, 08:15   #29
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Originally Posted by smallribber View Post
I was using a brand new battery fully charged battery and it had gone down a bit by the end of the test. The battery does not provide the spark this comes from the stator. I confirmed this by disconnecting the battery when it was running and it continued running. I think my stator is split in 3 parts (Charging circuit, Cylinder bank 1 and cylinder bank 2. I think the Charging part has failed and one of the parts fireing one of the sets of cylinders is failing.

Either way she is comming out next week and I will try and get it sorted.

Thanks for all the 'helpful' comments from those helpful people on here
Ok I knew that was how smaler engines worked but didnt know if larger more complex ignition systems were battery based. It sounds not but worth checking, I've had cars start to run rough with a dodgy alternator and a diminishing battery & thought it may be worth checking
Good luck with the repairs
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Old 23 July 2020, 16:10   #30
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Well so far I have been qouted £980 for an OEM Stator........ What is Yamaha thinking
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Old 08 September 2020, 05:52   #31
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So After 6 weeks I have (touch wood) got this sorted.

It was getting a little beyond my Knowledge although I have learnt a lot so I got in a marine machanic. He came to the boat and immediatly found that the engine poor running was nowt to do with electrics but it was blocked jets in the bottom two carbs.

He found this by removing the airbox starting the engine and spraying carb cleaner in each carb one at a time. When this was done in the top two carb pairs the engine died as he sprayed because the extra 'fuel' (the spray) bogged/slowed the engine. When he did the same in the bottom two carbs the engine picked up. This demonstrated that the bottom two carbs were not getting fuel in the normal way but when sprayed in they were.

He took the carbs off and took them away for a carb clean. He has been very busy over the last month or so and also went on holiday so he only refitted the carbs yesterday. Once started the engine ran far better and ticked over fine. That gave me some joy.

Now to the charging....... I had sourced a new (well I bought 2 in fact) rectifier from ebay for £28 as the OEM one was on the order of £390 and on a very long lead time.

We put that on the engine and hey presto 13.2 + volts. So battery now charging.

So it looks like the stator is ok it was a dud rectifier.

Late in the season now so I will put her to bed till next year and use my other boats for what remains and hope she is ok in 2021.

This whole thing has taught me a lot which I am sure will be useful in the future.

The spreying in 'fuel' to each carb is a good test that might also help others
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