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18 December 2008, 11:52
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#1
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Member
Country: Other
Boat name: "can"
Make: Joker Boat
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp e-tec
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 88
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How to remove a stuck prop?
Hi,
I'm trying to service my dad's 9.9 4T mercury after the last capsizing event but the prop is not helping me. It seems like it is stuck on the shaft and is not moving a bit. Can you give me any ideas or tips before I start using some brute force?
thanks,
Memo
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18 December 2008, 12:46
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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Loads of WD40 or similar and gently tap with a soft hammer. Heat might not help if your prop has a rubber bush fitted.
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18 December 2008, 13:00
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#3
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,919
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If you have time and the WD40 doesn't help, stand it in a bucket of deisel for a week or so.
Nasher.
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18 December 2008, 15:55
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Try the penetrating oil approach but since it's a small motor and easily handled, place the lower unit between blocks of wood so that the prop is resting on them. You can then tap the propshaft out of the prop. Leave the nut on the thread to protect it and maybe use a softer material to hammer against the shaft. This prevents the bearings in the lower unit taking the full whack when driving the prop off by directly hammering it.
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JW.
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18 December 2008, 16:40
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#5
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Try heating the prop hub with a heatgun. Should expand the material (probably aluminum) and help break any corrosion/salt bonds that have formed. Be careful not to apply so much heat as to damage the shaft seals, though. Gentle heating to a moderate temp should do it.
A little late, but this is a good argument for yearly removal/inspection/greasing.
Good luck;
jky
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18 December 2008, 19:27
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: fife
Make: Humber / searider
Length: 5m +
MMSI: ... - - - ...
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 720
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“The only difference between men and boys, is the price and size of their toys”
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18 December 2008, 21:14
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Only if you've got a space between the prop and the gear case big enough to get the feet clipped into.
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JW.
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18 December 2008, 22:36
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Only if you've got a space between the prop and the gear case big enough to get the feet clipped into.
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Yeah .. I bought 3 sizes of those pullers about 5 years ago and I'll be lucky if they've covered more than 2 pulling jobs that had to be sorted some other way.. they look a good idea, and I'm sure if you have a job where they work well, they are the business .. but they seem like one of those tools that solve everything but in practice .. dont ..principally cos they wont grip anything
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18 December 2008, 22:50
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#9
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Member
Country: Other
Boat name: "can"
Make: Joker Boat
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp e-tec
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 88
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Thank you for the great feedbacks!
I have to teach my old man about periodic maintanence
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19 December 2008, 00:40
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#10
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Stick the bottom end in a bucket of very hot water with a good splash of vinegar in it (this will help dissolve some of the salt deposits). You MAY want toremove the upper gearbox oil screw for this to prevent the seals bursting under pressure(and make sure it doesn't go in so far it gets water in the box!). While it's still hot put the screw back in then do what Nasher says with the diesel-as it cools it'll suck the diesel into the joint. Leave it few days then follow it up with what Jwalker said.
Don't mess around heating the propshaft on a small engine unless you're prepared to strip the gearbox and put new seals in.
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20 December 2008, 10:43
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#11
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,726
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I got mine off with a hammer which isn't as drastic as it sounds!
On my outboard there is a small amount of fore-aft play in the shaft (along the line of the shaft) so what I did was take off the nut, pulled the prop out and held it as hard as I could and tap the end of the shaft (minding the threads!) with a small ball pein hammer until it unstuck. Doing it like this avoids putting the hammering impacts through the bearings, gearbox etc. which I'd guess isn't a good thing.
I put some grease on the splines when I refitted it and on the odd occasions I have taken it off since it just slides off with no problem.
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20 December 2008, 12:03
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
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i try not to use pullers with aluminium ,unless you can get it to grip on something proper it will either slip or distort what your trying to pull off unless you can get a good straight pull ,i have always used boiling water and the bucket of warm diesel rather than direct heat might take a bit longer but it works in the end .i used to have a 50 ton hydro press and if the aluminium was that badly stuck it would push a lump out of the casting if there was any pitting or weakness there .
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20 December 2008, 12:31
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Aberdeenshire
Boat name: Sula
Make: Ribcraft 4.8m
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 70hp + aux
MMSI: 235087213
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,645
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Some good advice there.
A good smear of Duckhams marine grease before refit and a new split pin (change annually) and you'll never be in this position again.
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20 December 2008, 12:57
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Oban (mostly)
Make: Ribcraft, Humber,BWM
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outboards
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memo
I have to teach my old man about periodic maintanence
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Probably persuading him not to capsize will help too
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20 December 2008, 14:14
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#15
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Member
Country: Other
Boat name: "can"
Make: Joker Boat
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp e-tec
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 88
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I was the one who capsized
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaSkills
Probably persuading him not to capsize will help too
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20 December 2008, 17:27
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
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i dont think its the last capsize thats caused the prop to get stuck,most outboard propellers work in water all the time ,
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21 December 2008, 07:41
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#17
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Member
Country: Other
Boat name: "can"
Make: Joker Boat
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp e-tec
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 88
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I know, but getting capsized leaves you with the responsibility of fully servicing the engine as well
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