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Old 18 December 2008, 11:52   #1
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How to remove a stuck prop?

Hi,
I'm trying to service my dad's 9.9 4T mercury after the last capsizing event but the prop is not helping me. It seems like it is stuck on the shaft and is not moving a bit. Can you give me any ideas or tips before I start using some brute force?

thanks,
Memo
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Old 18 December 2008, 12:46   #2
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Loads of WD40 or similar and gently tap with a soft hammer. Heat might not help if your prop has a rubber bush fitted.
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Old 18 December 2008, 13:00   #3
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If you have time and the WD40 doesn't help, stand it in a bucket of deisel for a week or so.

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Old 18 December 2008, 15:55   #4
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Try the penetrating oil approach but since it's a small motor and easily handled, place the lower unit between blocks of wood so that the prop is resting on them. You can then tap the propshaft out of the prop. Leave the nut on the thread to protect it and maybe use a softer material to hammer against the shaft. This prevents the bearings in the lower unit taking the full whack when driving the prop off by directly hammering it.
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Old 18 December 2008, 16:40   #5
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Try heating the prop hub with a heatgun. Should expand the material (probably aluminum) and help break any corrosion/salt bonds that have formed. Be careful not to apply so much heat as to damage the shaft seals, though. Gentle heating to a moderate temp should do it.

A little late, but this is a good argument for yearly removal/inspection/greasing.

Good luck;

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Old 18 December 2008, 19:27   #6
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WD40 and then

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...tomotive-tools

Sorted.
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Old 18 December 2008, 21:14   #7
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Only if you've got a space between the prop and the gear case big enough to get the feet clipped into.
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Old 18 December 2008, 22:36   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker View Post
Only if you've got a space between the prop and the gear case big enough to get the feet clipped into.
Yeah .. I bought 3 sizes of those pullers about 5 years ago and I'll be lucky if they've covered more than 2 pulling jobs that had to be sorted some other way.. they look a good idea, and I'm sure if you have a job where they work well, they are the business .. but they seem like one of those tools that solve everything but in practice .. dont ..principally cos they wont grip anything
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Old 18 December 2008, 22:50   #9
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Thank you for the great feedbacks!

I have to teach my old man about periodic maintanence
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Old 19 December 2008, 00:40   #10
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Stick the bottom end in a bucket of very hot water with a good splash of vinegar in it (this will help dissolve some of the salt deposits). You MAY want toremove the upper gearbox oil screw for this to prevent the seals bursting under pressure(and make sure it doesn't go in so far it gets water in the box!). While it's still hot put the screw back in then do what Nasher says with the diesel-as it cools it'll suck the diesel into the joint. Leave it few days then follow it up with what Jwalker said.

Don't mess around heating the propshaft on a small engine unless you're prepared to strip the gearbox and put new seals in.
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Old 20 December 2008, 10:43   #11
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I got mine off with a hammer which isn't as drastic as it sounds!

On my outboard there is a small amount of fore-aft play in the shaft (along the line of the shaft) so what I did was take off the nut, pulled the prop out and held it as hard as I could and tap the end of the shaft (minding the threads!) with a small ball pein hammer until it unstuck. Doing it like this avoids putting the hammering impacts through the bearings, gearbox etc. which I'd guess isn't a good thing.

I put some grease on the splines when I refitted it and on the odd occasions I have taken it off since it just slides off with no problem.
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Old 20 December 2008, 12:03   #12
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i try not to use pullers with aluminium ,unless you can get it to grip on something proper it will either slip or distort what your trying to pull off unless you can get a good straight pull ,i have always used boiling water and the bucket of warm diesel rather than direct heat might take a bit longer but it works in the end .i used to have a 50 ton hydro press and if the aluminium was that badly stuck it would push a lump out of the casting if there was any pitting or weakness there .
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Old 20 December 2008, 12:31   #13
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Some good advice there.

A good smear of Duckhams marine grease before refit and a new split pin (change annually) and you'll never be in this position again.
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Old 20 December 2008, 12:57   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memo View Post
I have to teach my old man about periodic maintanence
Probably persuading him not to capsize will help too

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Old 20 December 2008, 14:14   #15
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I was the one who capsized

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Probably persuading him not to capsize will help too

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Old 20 December 2008, 17:27   #16
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i dont think its the last capsize thats caused the prop to get stuck,most outboard propellers work in water all the time ,
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Old 21 December 2008, 07:41   #17
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I know, but getting capsized leaves you with the responsibility of fully servicing the engine as well
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