How to remove transom outboard lock

[AJ.]

Hi all,

Can anyone help me understand how I can remove this lock without a key.

First thought was locksmith?

Second was getting heavy with it but have not got a clue where to start

[jyasaki]

This is guesswork from the pics:

Looks like if you cut the barrel of the cylinder just in front of the cables (third pic) you should gain access to the hidden bolt head. If it's hardened steel, you're in for a job. Use some coolant (water) to avoid burning the transom.

That's assuming you can't pick the lock (corroded solid, or whatever.)

If you can get to the other side, cutting the bolt opposite the lock may prove easier.

jky

[Maximus]

I'm reliably informed ( by my local Suzi dealer) a Scaffold Pole over the end and a bit of wellie will do the trick!...not I suspect for you!
I'd cover the engine tubes ect with a dust sheet and use a Metal cutting disk and cordless Grinder...and take care!
I have a New lock if you need one Alex.

[AJ.]

Originally Posted by jyasaki

This is guesswork from the pics:



Looks like if you cut the barrel of the cylinder just in front of the cables (third pic) you should gain access to the hidden bolt head. If it's hardened steel, you're in for a job. Use some coolant (water) to avoid burning the transom.



That's assuming you can't pick the lock (corroded solid, or whatever.)



If you can get to the other side, cutting the bolt opposite the lock may prove easier.



jky

Cheers for this I was also thinking that barrel is the easiest bit to hacksaw in order to remove that piece and get to the nut...cheers


Sent from my iPhone using RIB Net

[AJ.]

Originally Posted by Maximus

I'm reliably informed ( by my local Suzi dealer) a Scaffold Pole over the end and a bit of wellie will do the trick!...not I suspect for you!

I'd cover the engine tubes ect with a dust sheet and use a Metal cutting disk and cordless Grinder...and take care!

I have a New lock if you need one Alex.

Yeah I can see the scaffolding bar going wrong in the wrong hands!!!


Sent from my iPhone using RIB Net

[kerny]

Try drilling through the keyhole first if you can get to it.

[bedajim]

Slitting disc on a 4.1/2 angle grinder

Gloves, eye protection and cover the area where the sparks land
Don't ask how I know

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by bedajim

Slitting disc on a 4.1/2 angle grinder

Gloves, eye protection and cover the area where the sparks land
Don't ask how I know

Exactly what I'd do as well.

[Maximus]

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Exactly what I'd do as well.

Me too

[Nick Hearne]

Originally Posted by Maximus

Me too

And me, removed one off my SR with a angle grinder

[Johnscubanut]

Agree, angle grinder & protect area with sheets & boards from sparks!

[willk]

Originally Posted by Maximus

I'd cover the engine tubes ect with a dust sheet and use a Metal cutting disk and cordless Grinder...and take care

Sorry, did someone say something?

[Johnscubanut]

I guess most of us agree then? Ha!

[willk]

Originally Posted by Johnscubanut

I guess most of us agree then? Ha!

Time to Drill a Hole in a Console then, oh, and end famine too!

[AJ.]

Well thanks all for the responses. I think that is fairly unanimous although I could do with a few more responses just to be absolutely sure

So which bit am I angle grinding, is it that little rod thing on the last pic?

[kerny]

Originally Posted by AJ.

Well thanks all for the responses. I think that is fairly unanimous although I could do with a few more responses just to be absolutely sure

So which bit am I angle grinding, is it that little rod thing on the last pic?

If its like the one I had its cast alloy.... so give it a whack with a hammer

[CJL]

Go for the padlock not the cast bit. That way if your careful you can re-use it with a new padlock.

Chris

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by AJ.

Well thanks all for the responses. I think that is fairly unanimous although I could do with a few more responses just to be absolutely sure

So which bit am I angle grinding, is it that little rod thing on the last pic?

Seems to me that the locking bit is the right end of the rod in the third pic. Unlocking the thing allows the pin to slide to the left, clearing the wall of the cylinder, after which you remove the lock towards the camera. If that's true, cutting the rod won't get you anywhere, as the stub will still be stuck in the lock part.

You'll need to cut the cylinder part beyond where the pin goes in (or at least halfway along the pin diameter) such that the pin is no longer holding everything in. Remove the lock and you should have access to the nut or bolt head.

jky

[bedajim]

I have also drilled the head off the bolt from the other side if it has better access, small bit and work up keep it cool with water

[HughN]

Originally Posted by kerny

If its like the one I had its cast alloy.... so give it a whack with a hammer

The pipe-freezing spray used by plumbers helps when trying that (or so they tell me )