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22 May 2011, 11:17
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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I dinged my prop!
After over 12 years of boating it had to happen one day I guess.
Nothing too bad, just lots of jaggy bits over the leading edges of each blade. I'll be able to clean this up OK with a fine sanding disc on an angle grinder, but my question is about balancing the prop: Is this something I can do myself, or am I going to have to take it to a prop shop and get it done there?
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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22 May 2011, 11:29
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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I suspect you'll lose performance now,even after cleaning it up.
I'd send it to a prop shop anyway.
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22 May 2011, 11:51
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Andy, yes you can balance your prop, I do all mine and it's surprising how far out they are from new. I have a wheel balancer for motorbike wheels and use it. It is very simple and you could fabricate something or borrow one if necessary. You will need to turn up a mandrel to be a very close fit inside the prop so it effectively has a spindle. I don't remove metal to balance the prop, I add a wee piece of stainless and tack it inside the rear of the prop. The initial balancing I do using a dod of blu tack then cut the stainless weight to match this. It sounds bothersome when written here but once you're set up it's fine and it'll surprise you the accuracy you can achieve this way. I've balanced other stuff too using this method, crankshaft pulleys, flywheels etc.
If your prop is aluminium I guess you'll need to invent some other way of attaching the weight.
Cleaning up your blades will be fine. If you need to remove a slither at the front edge of a blade to contour it, take a template of that blade and reshape the leading edge of the others blades to match. Radius the leading edge when it's done. It's not as black an art as folk would have you believe.
Good luck.
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JW.
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22 May 2011, 13:44
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: gravesend
Boat name: curach/Earl
Make: seago/Lifeguard 4M
Length: under 3m
Engine: 3.3 marinar/10 hp
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hightower
After over 12 years of boating it had to happen one day I guess.
Nothing too bad, just lots of jaggy bits over the leading edges of each blade. I'll be able to clean this up OK with a fine sanding disc on an angle grinder, but my question is about balancing the prop: Is this something I can do myself, or am I going to have to take it to a prop shop and get it done there?
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Snap i have to send mine off,who ever had it before ,jaggered right up.
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01 June 2011, 14:38
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Marlow
Make: Bombard 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: 25hp Yamaha 2 stroke
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 55
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Newbie question.
Would you go to those lengths for an ali prop or just a stainless one?
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02 June 2011, 17:50
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#6
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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If you're just taking off small amounts of metal (cleaning up little snaggy bits) I wouldn't worry too much about balancing. If you're taking off enough to affect the prop's balance, you're going to be missing a decent amount of blade area from that blade, which would probably affect performance to a higher degree, and that would require welding more metal on and reshaping - means a prop shop in most cases. For a blade cleanup, I'd smooth it up and be done with it.
jky
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02 June 2011, 21:59
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Farnborough
Boat name: Narcissus
Make: Cobra
Length: 7m +
Engine: Optimax 225
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,364
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It's not completely unknown to slightly ding the prop and find it's faster.
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02 June 2011, 22:54
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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Dont take a grinder to it .. (fine disk or not) if its a little roughing up like you say, I use a good new square file, so I get good purchase on the blade for the roughest parts, but my motion is like an angel , holding the file across my thumbs with the blade between my knuckles and I HARDLY REMOVE ANYTHING but I gradually work to the curve and restore the edge and thats for stainless .. never had a problem yet, and no expensive prop shop balancing bills either.. or problems asociated .. sometimes a hammering is required for more extensive 'dings' to restore the cup edge , but thats easy enough
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02 June 2011, 22:56
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Farnborough
Boat name: Narcissus
Make: Cobra
Length: 7m +
Engine: Optimax 225
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,364
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I find a flapdisk on a grinder is quite good - less harsh than a normal disk, easier than doing it by hand.
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03 June 2011, 23:01
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,021
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I have used a dremmel with good results
liking the new smilies
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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03 June 2011, 23:10
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris
I have used a dremmel with good results
liking the new smilies
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You just posted because of that didnt you ?
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03 June 2011, 23:38
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigmuz7
You just posted because of that didnt you ?
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what makes you think that
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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