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26 March 2006, 21:14
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: dawlish
Make: avon searider/bom380
Length: 4m +
Engine: merc 50 2 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 323
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impellor on blueband merc 50 cant split lower unit
hi
helping brotherinlaw with old blue band 50 merc got all the bolts undone and the lower unit drops slightly but cant get apart is there anything up top that has to be released because it feels like its a postive stop not like its just stuck on crud build up ,or is it just a bit of gentle persuasion thats required.
the impellor is shagged so need to change it ,thought i saw a strip down guide on here last year with photos of merc ,but cant find it now any advice appreciated
thanx
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26 March 2006, 21:29
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Nothing up top has to be released on the 50 bluebands. Has he remembered to undo the bolt under the trim tab anode?
Assuming he has then just wiggle it a lot and eventually it'll drop off.
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26 March 2006, 22:21
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Devon
Boat name: White Ice
Make: Ranieri
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 115hp
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino89
thought i saw a strip down guide on here last year with photos of merc ,but cant find it now any advice appreciated
thanx
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I did this thread on my Yamaha Impeller change if this helps: http://www.rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5840
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26 March 2006, 22:32
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino89
hi
helping brotherinlaw with old blue band 50 merc got all the bolts undone and the lower unit drops slightly but cant get apart is there anything up top that has to be released because it feels like its a postive stop not like its just stuck
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Did you disconnect the gearshift?
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JW.
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26 March 2006, 22:44
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#5
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Did you disconnect the gearshift?
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You don't have to disconnect the gearshift on these motors it's a splined shaft that seperates when the leg drops.
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26 March 2006, 22:47
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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OK, how does that work? It must rotate to change gear, I guess.
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JW.
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27 March 2006, 09:18
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: dawlish
Make: avon searider/bom380
Length: 4m +
Engine: merc 50 2 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 323
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thanks for replies , will be looking again at weekend beleive all bolts have been removed so will double check! then try a bit of persausion
will post what occurs!!
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27 March 2006, 21:43
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#8
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
OK, how does that work? It must rotate to change gear, I guess.
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Yeah, nice and simple. Can be a bit of a bugger to line back up though.
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28 March 2006, 20:08
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#9
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Dublin
Boat name: wizzard
Make: REDBAY
Length: 7m +
Engine: 225 optimax
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 835
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Jwalker is right the gear shift, is not the rotational drive splined shaft, its the gearcase drive, when the casing splits slightly, look in and open the screw coupling holding the gearshift, up and down rod together the coupling needs to be opened to let the unit drop off, watch for the seal and spacer on the top of the shaft as the unit comes away, they often fall off when dissambelling
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28 March 2006, 20:42
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#10
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gavin
Jwalker is right the gear shift, is not the rotational drive splined shaft, its the gearcase drive, when the casing splits slightly, look in and open the screw coupling holding the gearshift, up and down rod together the coupling needs to be opened to let the unit drop off, watch for the seal and spacer on the top of the shaft as the unit comes away, they often fall off when dissambelling
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No, he's not. There is NO SCREW COUPLING ON THESE ENGINES. I OWN 2 OF THEM and have removed the lower units MANY TIMES.
This is what the lower unit looks like when it's off-the short splined shaft at the front of the unit is the gearchange shaft.
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28 March 2006, 21:50
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bromsgrove
Boat name: Flatacraft
Make: Flatacraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 70hp (OB)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
No, he's not. There is NO SCREW COUPLING ON THESE ENGINES. I OWN 2 OF THEM and have removed the lower units MANY TIMES.
This is what the lower unit looks like when it's off-the short splined shaft at the front of the unit is the gearchange shaft.
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thats fucking shagged
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28 March 2006, 22:15
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#12
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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yep.... It's from a scrapper I bought. I took the engine apart with a lump hammer Surprisingly, the lower units internals were fine. That chunk missing from the skeg isn't broken off, it's corroded!
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28 March 2006, 22:32
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stu1288
thats fucking shagged
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Good analysis.
You're probably qualified to post on this thread:
http://www.rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13679
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29 March 2006, 06:42
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Devon
Boat name: White Ice
Make: Ranieri
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 115hp
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gavin
Jwalker is right...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2
No, he's not....
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Its possible you're both right... production of same model, same year items can change for no apparent reason, usually change of supplier for a component. I blame supply chain management
Anyway, enough of that... disagreement and contradiction makes for more amusing reading!
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29 March 2006, 11:01
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
Engine: Volvo KAD300/DPX
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard B
Its possible you're both right...
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I didn't claim to be 'right'. I simply asked whether the gearshift had been disconnected.
__________________
JW.
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29 March 2006, 12:46
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - N Ireland
Town: Bangor,Co Down
Make: Gemini/ Avon
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 166
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Not wanting to change the thread or anything, but does anyone have a prop for a 50 Merc blueband they would like to sell- 13 spline shaft, 4 cylinder,etc..
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29 March 2006, 18:31
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: dawlish
Make: avon searider/bom380
Length: 4m +
Engine: merc 50 2 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 323
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nice sunny day thoght we would have another look at splitting lower unit two things first its a red band on the engingine cover and number on the engine plug is B17396.
right the lower unit drops about 10mm and stops on a positive knock which can be felt through the fly wheel on top , it seems by feel that what ever is stopping it splitting is directly under the fly wheel
any ideas ?? if theres anything under there that could stop it part ie circlip ?or nut ?
Dino
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30 March 2006, 15:30
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: dawlish
Make: avon searider/bom380
Length: 4m +
Engine: merc 50 2 stroke
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 323
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still stuck read last post!!
refer to my last post first as more info in that ,another thought is does anything have to line up to allow it to drop ? is there a difference between the red banded and blue banded mercs as the way it drops to a 10mmm gap seems to positive to be crud gave it a good go with wedges but will not move anymore can post photos if any use .
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30 March 2006, 17:11
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Herne Bay
Boat name: Rotary Rescue
Make: Pacific 22
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mermaid 160
MMSI: 235021725
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 328
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Merc
If it hasnt been removed for some time,it may be corroded in the drive shaft to crank splines or if it has the same arrangement for the gear select lower down it could be there. I will delve into some old books tomorrow
Paul
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30 March 2006, 17:27
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#20
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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It SHOULD be the same lower unit-to the best of my knowledge it's the same lower unit from 1968ish to 1985ish....but your engine is listed as being 1964-1966 and at a guess I'd say probably 1964 as it's towards the beginning of the numbers listed. You need to check spline size on the prop output shaft to be sure which model, but my manual which covers 63-88 still doesn't show a bolt.
Have a look at http://www.oldmercs.com for parts lists etc
This is unless yours is the one-piece cowl much later model with a red band that would probably make it less than 10 years old....
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