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Old 19 June 2013, 14:44   #1
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Kill Cord wiring on a twin with Magneto

I've just fitted a kill cord to my '73 Chrysler 4.5
As it has twin points, I've only fitted the Earthing to one set, so in effect it will end up trying to run on one cylinder in the event that the cord is activated.
Does anyone know if there is a way of connecting to earth both coils? If I connect the kill cord wire to both, the coils will be connected together, which can't be done as they have to run separately.
I'm not sure it'll run on one cyl. Anyway, but would like a proper fit if possible..
Thanks
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Old 19 June 2013, 14:54   #2
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You could put the kill onto the pos lo tension before it splits to the coils.
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Old 19 June 2013, 16:37   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mister p View Post
You could put the kill onto the pos lo tension before it splits to the coils.
There probably isn't one-it's probably two independent coils.

You could try putting the killcord between the 2 sets of points so it shorts them together. There should always be a closed set of points, so it'll do the same job as shorting them to earth.
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Old 19 June 2013, 19:17   #4
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Thanks.
I was thinking that if the two points are connected, then one will short the other when its not active, and im not sure of the implication.
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Old 19 June 2013, 19:27   #5
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It won't if one of them's closed. It'll just go to earth.
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Old 19 June 2013, 19:47   #6
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Ok. I'll whip the flywheel off again tomorrow and add a wire across the points. Its pretty tight in there, but will probably fit.
I'll take a photo too- always a good ref. For others.
I used a quad/ mc type bar mount kill switch with the emergency leash. It fitted a treat with the wires running through the tiller to the engine casing. The wires then pass into the mag through the HT lead port.
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Old 19 June 2013, 21:25   #7
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Just been thinking about this again.
In effect, by joining the two points together at the LT side, this will produce a 'wasted' spark on a plug at each fire. ie. One set of points will fire its opposite coil due to the link.
Both condensors will be in use, but I'm not 100% of the correctness of it.

Any auto electricians on here?
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Old 19 June 2013, 21:48   #8
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I just found this after a quick search....


The addition of such a "kill switch" is dirt-easy if your old OMC engine was originally fitted with a push-button shut-down switch. Have a look at the posted Johnson Service Bulletin, which explains how the standard push-button stop-switch worked. Basically, it is just a spring-loaded switch, "normally open" (normally in the "off" position) that is connected by two wires to the ignition points. The magneto ignition system on these two-cylinder OMC engines is always "on:" in order to turn the ignition "off," an electrical connection is made between the ignition points of both cylinders. This disables both cylinders and the engine stops running. One pushes the stop switch, the stop switch electrically joins the two cylinder's ignition points, and the engine stops.

In effect it means I use the kill cord switch loop as the points joining wire.
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Old 19 June 2013, 21:49   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brady View Post
I just found this after a quick search....


The addition of such a "kill switch" is dirt-easy if your old OMC engine was originally fitted with a push-button shut-down switch. Have a look at the posted Johnson Service Bulletin, which explains how the standard push-button stop-switch worked. Basically, it is just a spring-loaded switch, "normally open" (normally in the "off" position) that is connected by two wires to the ignition points. The magneto ignition system on these two-cylinder OMC engines is always "on:" in order to turn the ignition "off," an electrical connection is made between the ignition points of both cylinders. This disables both cylinders and the engine stops running. One pushes the stop switch, the stop switch electrically joins the two cylinder's ignition points, and the engine stops.

In effect it means I use the kill cord switch loop as the points joining wire.
Which is what I was saying
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Old 19 June 2013, 21:59   #10
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Got that now thanks. I just didn't picture it in my head, and had the single coil setup fixated.
Thanks again, a real help.
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Old 19 June 2013, 22:00   #11
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if it helps on my old yam kill switch used to link both coils which worked fine
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Old 19 June 2013, 22:04   #12
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Thanks
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Old 20 June 2013, 12:24   #13
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A bit late in the thread, , but I think I'm safe in saying all my twin pot engines stopped like that other than my Johnsorude 4 that just retards the spark so far it can't ignite the exhaust fumes!
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Old 20 June 2013, 12:42   #14
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All sorted now..and it works!

..but the starter dog snapped in two this morning.
Bill Higham Marine came up trumps with a new one!
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Old 20 June 2013, 20:24   #15
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Photos..



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Old 20 June 2013, 20:48   #16
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Wow, that's clean in there.
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Old 20 June 2013, 20:59   #17
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Very low hours, and mostly fresh water.
It was my brother in laws as a kid....
Hoping to get it sorted for next weekend on the Avon Rover R2-80

I need an 8hp really, but my two girls (9 & 11) love it. I've a 3.3 Yamaha Malta too, so hoping to run that up as well.
Given its age, do you think the Yam will power it as well as the Chrysler? Or will the hp be noticeable?
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Old 20 June 2013, 21:11   #18
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You'll notice the little bit extra, mainly as it won't be revving its nuts off as much.
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