Mariner 25hp 2 stroke Impeller change

[bigscott]

Hi.

I have a 1998 ( I think ) mariner 25hp 2 stroke outboard ( ex RNLI)

Was out on the boat today enjoying the sunshine, spent 4 hours out with no problem. when I returned to the slipway I noticed the Pee pipe was spitting very little water out when in neutral. I popped it into gear and slowly did a lap around the moorings,very little water was coming out the pipe but it was pumping water.

Put the outboard into neutral to check again and this time the water stopped completely with only exhaust fumes coming out so I turned the outboard off. Took the hood off and it was hot to the touch

I check the water flow everytime I start the outboard ( this could be up to 12 times per trip) so im really surprised at how quickly this has happened.

Do the impellers just suddenly go or is it more likely a blockage somewhere in the system?

If it is the impeller I would really like to change it myself, Is it a big job or just a matter of taking the gearbox off, flushing the system and changing the impeller.

Any help gratefully received

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by bigscott

Hi.

I have a 1998 ( I think ) mariner 25hp 2 stroke outboard ( ex RNLI)

Was out on the boat today enjoying the sunshine, spent 4 hours out with no problem. when I returned to the slipway I noticed the Pee pipe was spitting very little water out when in neutral. I popped it into gear and slowly did a lap around the moorings,very little water was coming out the pipe but it was pumping water.

Put the outboard into neutral to check again and this time the water stopped completely with only exhaust fumes coming out so I turned the outboard off. Took the hood off and it was hot to the touch

I check the water flow everytime I start the outboard ( this could be up to 12 times per trip) so im really surprised at how quickly this has happened.

Do the impellers just suddenly go or is it more likely a blockage somewhere in the system?

If it is the impeller I would really like to change it myself, Is it a big job or just a matter of taking the gearbox off, flushing the system and changing the impeller.

Any help gratefully received

Do you know the history of your engine?

Normally impellers are changed every other season, or if it has a lot of hours then it would be prudent to change it annually.

To replace the impeller, drop the leg. To do this, ensure the engine is in neutral. Normally there are 4 bolts under the anti-cavitation plate. Undo but do not remove. The gear shift selector (if it's like the Yamaha 25hp) locknut needs to be undone too. The final bolt is usually hidden under the trim tab. With everything disconnected, it should simply drop down. If there's any resistance, then use a rubber mallet and gently tap the gear box at regular intervals and around the anti cavitation plate. It should drop down now.

The impeller is located in the water-pump housing. Unto the 4 bolts and lift it off the drive shaft. Prize the old impeller off (there will be a crescent shaped woodruff key) on the driveshaft. More often than not it's corroded to the driveshaft. If it is, leave it alone - there's no benefit in trying to remove it.

Check the water-pump housing. If the stainless steel faceplate is scored or you notice any other damage (rubber 'o' gasket on the pump housing for example), then replace. Clean everything up. Apply a suitable marine grease to the inside of the pump housing and lube the impeller. Slide the impeller onto the driveshaft until it locates in the woodruff key.

Now slide on the pump housing. Turn the impeller clockwise and it will fold inside the pump housing. Secure with the 4 bolts (don't over-torque.) Apply grease to the splined driveshaft end. Now refit back to the engine. The driveshaft will locate in the powerhead, also make sure the water-pipe lines up.

Reconnect gear-shift selector, and tighten locknut and bolts. Try engine in forward, reverse and neutral before starting the engine. If you're happy, then start the engine with muffs on.

If you're going to the bother of changing the impeller, then look at changing the gear oil too. I'd also remove the thermostat and clean it up (not unusual to get a build up of salt deposits here). Using some strimmer cord, you can clean the tell-tale pipe if you suspect there's something reducing the tell-tale water flow.

This is a useful description regards the shift-mechanism if it's not a lock-nut as per a Yamaha engine. Good luck.
First Impeller replacement - Tips 25hp outboard , 96

[bigscott]

Originally Posted by spartacus

Do you know the history of your engine?

Normally impellers are changed every other season, or if it has a lot of hours then it would be prudent to change it annually.

To replace the impeller, drop the leg. To do this, ensure the engine is in neutral. Normally there are 4 bolts under the anti-cavitation plate. Undo but do not remove. The gear shift selector (if it's like the Yamaha 25hp) locknut needs to be undone too. The final bolt is usually hidden under the trim tab. With everything disconnected, it should simply drop down. If there's any resistance, then use a rubber mallet and gently tap the gear box at regular intervals and around the anti cavitation plate. It should drop down now.

The impeller is located in the water-pump housing. Unto the 4 bolts and lift it off the drive shaft. Prize the old impeller off (there will be a crescent shaped woodruff key) on the driveshaft. More often than not it's corroded to the driveshaft. If it is, leave it alone - there's no benefit in trying to remove it.

Check the water-pump housing. If the stainless steel faceplate is scored or you notice any other damage (rubber 'o' gasket on the pump housing for example), then replace. Clean everything up. Apply a suitable marine grease to the inside of the pump housing and lube the impeller. Slide the impeller onto the driveshaft until it locates in the woodruff key.

Now slide on the pump housing. Turn the impeller clockwise and it will fold inside the pump housing. Secure with the 4 bolts (don't over-torque.) Apply grease to the splined driveshaft end. Now refit back to the engine. The driveshaft will locate in the powerhead, also make sure the water-pipe lines up.

Reconnect gear-shift selector, and tighten locknut and bolts. Try engine in forward, reverse and neutral before starting the engine. If you're happy, then start the engine with muffs on.

If you're going to the bother of changing the impeller, then look at changing the gear oil too. I'd also remove the thermostat and clean it up (not unusual to get a build up of salt deposits here). Using some strimmer cord, you can clean the tell-tale pipe if you suspect there's something reducing the tell-tale water flow.

This is a useful description regards the shift-mechanism if it's not a lock-nut as per a Yamaha engine. Good luck.
First Impeller replacement - Tips 25hp outboard , 96

Fantastic answer thank you so much Will be ordering the kit at the end of next week so really looking forward to cracking on with this. thanks again spartacus

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by bigscott

Fantastic answer thank you so much Will be ordering the kit at the end of next week so really looking forward to cracking on with this. thanks again spartacus

If your old impeller broke up,it's worth sticking a hosepipe onto the metal pipe going to the impeller once you've got the lower unit off to make sure you don't have bits up in the waterways blocking them up.

[bigscott]

Will do Nos4r2 good idea. Is the exhaust fumes coming out the pipe anything to worry about or is this common?

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by bigscott

Will do Nos4r2 good idea. Is the exhaust fumes coming out the pipe anything to worry about or is this common?

That's probably steam rather than exhaust fumes.

If it is exhaust fumes, then it's a bit more serious (but usually not fatal and not too expensive if you DIY) and requires further investigation.

[bigscott]

Now that I think about it, it did look more like steam so with a bit of luck it will only be the impeller that needs replacing.

Would MPG multipurpose marine grease be suitable for greasing the impeller MPG UNIVERSAL MARINE GREASE FOR OUTBOARD INBOARD ENGINE | eBay UK

Hoping to do the job on Friday after work so want to be prepared

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by bigscott

Now that I think about it, it did look more like steam so with a bit of luck it will only be the impeller that needs replacing.

Would MPG multipurpose marine grease be suitable for greasing the impeller MPG UNIVERSAL MARINE GREASE FOR OUTBOARD INBOARD ENGINE | eBay UK

Hoping to do the job on Friday after work so want to be prepared

Yes, that'll be fine. You need very very little-it's just to make it easier to ease the housing over the impeller.

[Turbodiesel]

Just out of interest your engine will be an ex MoD contract exchange engine. The RNLI never used the 25hp. I guess it has a few plugged up holes in the lower cowl tray!

[bigscott]

Hi Turbo.

The Mechanic at Birchelle Marine told me it was Ex RNLI so Ive always been under that impression. The holes are there but not plugged, He also mentioned something about the outboard been modified to withstand been flipped.

[bigscott]

Would I be right in saying that the MOD and RNLI make the same or at least very similiar modifications to there outboards? that would explain why the Mechi thought it was an ex RNLI.

Thanks for the info Turbo. Its a great engine, lots of power and has served me well. Got me back to safety more than once

[bigscott]

Right, finally got the new impeller. popped the lower case off, opened the impeller housing and took the old impeller out. Installed the new one and reinstalled the housing.

I tried turning the drive shaft and its very stiff so much so that when I try to pull the pull start ( very very slowly, in neutral, kill cord out and turned off ) it wont budge!!!! So off came the lower case and back to the shed I went.

Took the new impeller out and put the old one back in. Tightend up the housing and turned the drive shaft with my hand with ease. Checked the size of the new impeller and it is identical to the one that came out, same height, width everything.

Is it supposed to be so stiff until the impeller is run in or am I doing something wrong?????

Very confused by this, been in the shed for the past 2 hours scratching my head. If I dont tighten the 4 bolts on the water pump housing then its no problem lol but as soon as I tighten the bolts with the new impeller in it gets tight.



Oh and I've used grease to install the impeller as per the manual instructions

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by bigscott

Is it supposed to be so stiff until the impeller is run in or am I doing something wrong?????

Very confused by this, been in the shed for the past 2 hours scratching my head. If I dont tighten the 4 bolts on the water pump housing then its no problem lol but as soon as I tighten the bolts with the new impeller in it gets tight.

Oh and I've used grease to install the impeller as per the manual instructions

Something isn't quite right. When you install the impeller (assuming it's absolutely identical to the existing one), does it locate on the woodruff key on the driveshaft? Lube up the impeller and the water-pump housing with a suitable marine grease. Turn the driveshaft clockwise and the impeller blades will fold as you put pressure on the housing. The bolts have to be tight.

Is the gear box okay - regards the gear oil level and condition, with no emulsification? If it's contaminated with water then the oil has the appearance of custard. It should be the colour of honey. Apologies for the food-related descriptions - but you get the general idea.

[bigscott]

Hi Spartacus.

Yep. Bought yamaha marine grease today to do the job. the woodruff/drive key is in the right place. The impeller sits flush on the bottom washer. gearbox oil is spot on (checked today) All boxes ticked everything is in the right place but as soon as I tighten the bolts the drive shaft becomes stiff as if the impeller is been sqaushed inside the housing.


I have a theory as too why the drive shaft moves so freely with the old impeller in it....Its missing 2 fins so theres less resistance.... I think.

Ive found a complete replacement housing unit for £60 and Im very tempted to go with that as it has all the o rings, gaskets and a new housing.

[bigscott]

Just an update on my impeller, bought a water pump rebuild kit which came with gaskets o rings, housing,washers etc.... AND IT WORKS!!!!


Thanks to all for the help and guidance, much appreciated