Mariner Fourty 1990 6E9 40hp reverse tilt lock

[AlastairB]

Hi all,

I recently acquired 'Minty' from a friend, we used her for a couple of seasons for free diving and recreational use. She's a 4.8m RIB with twin Mariner 40 ML (2 stroke, twin carb, serial numbers 40ML 6E9 L 354439 and 354433) manual start, manual tilt.

Ive been waiting to get my hands on the boat as I'm a bit OCD and it needed some love, there was so much old congealed grease and crud in the boat, and under the engine covers that it has taken me 3 days of stripping and cleaning everything to get them looking how they should, and they start and run beautifully, and change gear and operate the throttles like new after removing the pins and dressing the bushes, and replacing the cables and cleaning the morse controllers out. I'm part way through a good service, and next on the list is to repair the reverse tilt lock that hasn't worked in a long time.

I've searched and searched the web for information and read through a lot of threads but I could do with answers to the following questions if anyone can help:

1. Which Manual - the mariner Seloc manuals list unto 1989 2 stroke, and 1990 onwards. As mine are the older style basic engines I'm assuming ill get more information about them from the earlier manual? And does anyone have a manual or link to one even if not a SELOC one? I've checked the threads on free manuals and mine isn't listed!

2. The reverse lock mechanism that moves the hooks onto the bar in the transom clamp is free to move (eventually) but I can't see where or how anything from the gear selection rod actuates onto the tilt lock mechanism to hold it locked in reverse? How / where is this mystical link/bush/rod?

Pictures are like the ones in this thread: http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/mariner...ing-39535.html. although this one appears to have rusted through and has the two springs missing.

Can anyone assist? I plan to drop the LU if required, as reading up suggests a common issue of reverse locking cam alignment in the LU, but theres no point in doing this if I have parts missing from the mechanism further up? And I'm hesitant to mess with the LU as all they need is an oil change, the water pump impellers are working fine.

Any assistance greatly appreciated! I know this has been asked before but I just can't find an answer, and all the exploded parts diagrams don't show any link between the tilt lock mechanism and the gear selection rod!

[Davie]

Your engine will not have a reverse lock cam. Yours has a simple over centre lock which releases the reverse lock claws off tilt pin. It there a tilt pin in any one of the 6 adjusting holes?

[AlastairB]

Originally Posted by Davie

Your engine will not have a reverse lock cam. Yours has a simple over centre lock which releases the reverse lock claws off tilt pin. It there a tilt pin in any one of the 6 adjusting holes?

Hi! THANKYOU for the reply!

The pin through the transom bracket that the clown grip onto is there yes, and the clamp moves correctly over the bar and is released by the lever on the starboard side to lift the ‘jaws’ over the bar via a small spring. The problem is that it doesn’t grip the bar tightly enough, and even backing off the throttle causes the clamp (j shaped claws held down by two large springs) to slip over the bar and the engines to rise up.

Is there a common fix for this problem? From what you’re saying it sounds like the ‘holding down’ springs aren’t manly enough any more???

[AlastairB]

I’ll strip and clean up all the pins and links as there is still some old grease in there and see if that allows what looks like a cantilever on the j clamps to move into a more downward position, either way it can’t hurt as the springs don’t look stretched or broken, but the U shaped hook (looks like mild steel) is quite rusty and needs some TLC anyway!

Thanks again!

[AlastairB]

Fixed.

So after stripping it down there is a pair of J shaped claws that go over the pin through the engine transom bracket. Inside these claws (with rounded ends) there is a steel U shaped part that is spring operated by two tilt lock springs. This steel part was badly rusted and where it also passes over the tilt lock pin it was so rusted away that there wasn’t any metal left to ‘grip’ onto the tilt lock pin. Parts weren’t cheap but were easy enough to replace, and the ends of this U shaped bracket are square cut to give a good lock over the pin.

It was because they were so rusted and hidden by piles of old grease that it was really not obvious that the J shaped parts were still good and the steel part was knackered!

That’s to all who helped and pointed me in the right direction!

[jkk114l]

hi I'm know your post is from a while ago but I've got the same engine and problem,any chance you've got any diagrams photos?