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18 August 2003, 08:22
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leatherhead
Length: no boat
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 907
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Mariner Remote Throttle
Does anyone have instructions on how to dismantle a Mariner single lever remote control unit. My throttle is quite stiff and before I look at new cables I just want to check that all is well inside this unit. The engine throttle controls are quite free when the cables are disconnected. BTW the friction adjustement is turned right out.
A exploded diagram of the beast would help.
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Peter (nick, nick) T
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill! Bullshit and brilliance only come with age and experience.
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18 August 2003, 11:03
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Three cross head bolts attach the throttles to the console. Undo these. On the inside there is another plate 10 x 2" long with more cross head screws. Take this off and you can see the ends of the throtte cables. Undo the nut on the throttle lever to access the rest of the inside of the case. (The control box is capable of being reversed for either side mounting).
The friction thingy is a poor design and is normally all or nothing with any corrosion just making it worse. Never managed to get a nice action with a merc/mariner control box. The Quicksilver top mount "type" is better and would make a interesting winter project with a little box onto the side of the console to mount it on.
Pete
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19 August 2003, 00:32
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115hp Mariner Four S
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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Just had a sinilar problem with mine, in the end a few drops of oil down the cables did the trick. it wasnt very old and was still well greased but the cables had got a bit dry. you will find with your engine off that it may not go into reverse very well.
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19 August 2003, 18:47
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Leatherhead
Length: no boat
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 907
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Pete, thanks for the info - I spotted the 3 screws holding the unit to the consule but was reluctant to undo them without advice incase spring an' bits started flying in all directions.
chrisallse - thanks for your info - daft question maybe but which end did you put the oil into the cables?
I know that if you want to put the shift in reverse with the engine stopped then the prop must also be turned otherwise damage can be caused.
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Peter (nick, nick) T
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill! Bullshit and brilliance only come with age and experience.
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19 August 2003, 19:17
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115hp Mariner Four S
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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In the control end, its worth taking your time and drop as much oil as you can down the cable. its the white oxide that forms on zinc that seemed to jam up my cables not rust.
if you tighten up the friction control before you take it apart it stops some bits from falling out of position. check the grease and replace if needed. I think it was easier to remove the panel with the control about 3/4 towards full forward.
Also checkthe run of the cables as that can make them stiff.
Good luck Chris
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21 September 2003, 22:01
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brittany/Portsmouth
Boat name: Merlin
Make: Solent 6.5
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200
MMSI: soon !
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 5,451
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I had a similar problem yesterday after about 30 mins of constant trottleing it became very stiff about 75% of WOT amd toaught it might snap given the amount of pressure it needed to move it. Having not experienced this before (lots of other stuff too) we nursed it into Yarmouth.
I purchased a can of spray oil from the trusty shop with the tiny straw and sprayed into the dark craveses of the unit. after 10 mins it losened up.
IS there any problem in using spray oil on the unit instead of grease.
Don't really want to take the unit apart.
Paul
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Happy New Resolutions!!! : RIBbing for the craic!!!
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22 September 2003, 08:52
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,951
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Paul the answer is nope. Inside is a mass of wiring, a rather crude friction device and two cables, none of which will be any the worse for a coat of WD 40. They come apart without any nasty springs or widgets falling out. Worth taking apart just as winter sets in then it won't corrode up during the lay up. Spring is not the time to be looking for a service as the dealers are way to busy, do it in Jan / feb instead.
Pete
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22 September 2003, 22:19
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115hp Mariner Four S
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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You may be better off spraying grease or oil rather than WD40 its not a very good lubricant.
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22 September 2003, 22:26
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brittany/Portsmouth
Boat name: Merlin
Make: Solent 6.5
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200
MMSI: soon !
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 5,451
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I used both "To be sure to be sure" As that well know Irish proverb goes.
Wd40 down there and sray oil later
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Happy New Resolutions!!! : RIBbing for the craic!!!
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22 September 2003, 23:11
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: SOUTHAMPTON
Boat name: Won't get Fooled Again
Make: Ribtec
Length: 6.5
Engine: Honda 130
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 888
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They are quite easy to take apart with your knee with a bit of effort. I have started using some stuff called duck oil, which is a spray lubricant, has anybody else used this
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23 September 2003, 14:48
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cippenham
Boat name: Falcon1
Make: Falcon
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115hp Mariner Four S
MMSI: 235021077
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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I did, but the Duck didn't like it much
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23 September 2003, 16:33
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Swinton Manchester
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 179
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Mariiner Remote Thottle
I use duck oil alot in work its also a water repelent
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